Once I paid around 8 USD or so for one on a pimped out build but I agree, it's pretty weird how high I/O shields are priced (eBay at least). On the other hand checking completed sales it seems they sit on the shelf for a long time at those prices. What I've done is buy larger lots of mixed plates that are often priced very cheaply - if I can tell from the picture that it has least one or two I'm looking for.

tincup wrote:

Once I paid around 8 USD or so for one on a pimped out build but I agree, it's pretty weird how high I/O shields are priced (eBay at least). On the other hand checking completed sales it seems they sit on the shelf for a long time at those prices. What I've done is buy larger lots of mixed plates that are often priced very cheaply - if I can tell from the picture that it has least one or two I'm looking for.

yeah looking at what is availible now there are lots of 3-10 I/O sheids that actually picture the ones being sold. There are larger lots that say they are selling a lot of 50 for like 80 bucks but they don't gareentee which ones you get.

Just the whole idea that people are trying to scalp the cost of thigns annoys the crap out of me. It's worse then the inflated prices of 3dFX hardware.

I/o shield have to turn a profit to make it worth it to the seller to sell them. If you paid what they are actually worth (maybe 50 cents and 50 cents shipping) It wouldn't be worth the time for the seller to actually list them and spend time shipping them out.

Just don't use an i/o shield , problem solved

Exactly, I never use I/O shields. When MB comes with one... I just throw it to a box (for very unlikely future use) and done. 😀

I've picked "grab bags" for under 10 bucks - a lot of them have knockouts so they are somewhat adaptable. I'll put a dollar or two aside for a missing I/O shield on a decent build, but skip them most other times.

old post

If it's a board that will go in a case and used for longer periods of time, then I do make sure an IO shield is included. But most my projects are for a quick test bench setup, so it doesn't worry me much.

I think it's awesome that you can buy the IO shields though. It's something that likely bothers many.

Shame there is a real lack for "AT boards in an ATX case" type shields with the keyboard connector. They used to be available at some point in time...

PhilsComputerLab wrote:

If it's a board that will go in a case and used for longer periods of time, then I do make sure an IO shield is included. But most my projects are for a quick test bench setup, so it doesn't worry me much.

I think it's awesome that you can buy the IO shields though. It's something that likely bothers many.

Shame there is a real lack for "AT boards in an ATX case" type shields with the keyboard connector. They used to be available at some point in time...

If there exists a way to adapt an AT board into an ATX case, complete with PSU, I think I'd be more willing to step into AT hardware.

Oh that's straight forward actually 😀

I have made two videos showing this. Building a 386 with modern hardware and Building a 486 with modern hardware.

notsofossil wrote:

If there exists a way to adapt an AT board into an ATX case, complete with PSU, I think I'd be more willing to step into AT hardware.

As Phil mentioned in his articles, it's as simple as an adapter and changing the power switch on the case. Others have used small micros to add features (like auto power on), but a switch swap is easiest. It usually fits into the molding and requires no further modification.

As they're getting more rare, you don't need the ATX converter backplateunless you have a HAM operator in the family.

I suppose it's just a matter of calculating your total costs. If the board you want doesn't come with an IO shield, then factor the cost of one into the true total cost of your motherboard. If it's too much, then just be patient and wait for a seller that is including the IO shield with the board.

I once knowingly bought a motherboard without an IO shield, thinking that I had one already. Well, the IO shield I already had didn't fit it perfectly. I used a dremel and some metal tape to make it fit. I've also used this stuff to fill in the empty holes on cases that have knock-out panels that are missing. It works really well. I use several layers on both sides. It's not as good as having the original metal in-place, but it comes close.

If you want to do an extra nice job, I'm sure you could also buy some thin vinyl or plastic sheets and make something pretty easily. It would help if you have another IO shield you could use as a template. I know I've seen plastic binders and folders that could be easily cut to make an IO shield. Be creative.

You could also consider getting friendly with your local electronics recyclers or thrift shops. Be nice to them and they might let you pull a part from something they've taken in.

I don't own a 3D printer, nor have I ever used one, but have you considered that option? If you can't download the plans to 3D-print the IO shield, maybe it isn't too hard to make one yourself based on measurements? My local library has a 3D printer as well as folks who know how to design things. It's something to consider...

KT7AGuy wrote:

I don't own a 3D printer, nor have I ever used one, but have you considered that option? If you can't download the plans to 3D-print the IO shield, maybe it isn't too hard to make one yourself based on measurements? My local library has a 3D printer as well as folks who know how to design things. It's something to consider...

To be honest I am not the most "crafty" when it comes to doing that sort of thing. I have a hard time cutting a straight line with a saw. Interesting idea regarding the 3d printer. I wonder what the level of effort and cost to that would end up being.

I downloaded that file http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1307918 and checked in my 3d printing software some details. It would require 5 meters of PLA 1.75mm filament and 2 hours of printing. That would be around 50cents for the material and 0.1kWh of energy, so maybe 55 cents of real costs 😜 but, unless you own a 3d printer, I guess that the service itself could be pretty expensive (in fact it only involves putting some PVA glue on the printing bed and removing some supporting parts of printed model, but that takes some time).
It looks like above file can be customized even in web browser so probably you can adapt it to use with AT boards.

Rhuwyn wrote:

To be honest I am not the most "crafty" when it comes to doing that sort of thing. I have a hard time cutting a straight line with a saw.

Get a dremel and go nuts! You will be surprised at just how crafty you can get and how well things will turn out. Sure, sometimes you'll make a mess of things, but you'll learn while you do it. I recently made an 80mm hole for a fan in two 5.25" front bay covers. A hole saw would have been better but I didn't want to spend money for one. I just used a ruler, a can of soup, some sandpaper, my eyeballs, and a steady hand on my dremel. It's not perfect, but you'll only see defects if you get up close.

The can of soup was used to trace an outline of the hole I wanted. As luck would have it, a Campbell's Chunky Soup can is just about the perfect size for an 80mm fan hole. After cutting the hole, you wrap some sandpaper around the can and use it to sand the edges of the hole for a nice smooth job.

I probably should have taken photos or something.