Is it an OEM board? The oldest ATX board I have is a 430HX, and it works with a modern PSU.

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I have a similar board (the Gateway 2000 version of the Intel LT430TX) and it works just fine with a modern ATX power supply.

Dell socket 7 ATX boards have a special pinout. They are physically compatible with standard ATX, but are electrically different. You would need an adapter or an era Dell PSU for it.

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When you took the computer apart, did you take it out of the case? I've had boards no work because the screw holes weren't quite right, and a screw in that position would mess up the PG signal and make the board not boot.

When you try to power it on, using the screw driver method, does the PSU actually turn on? Fan spinning?

Some motherboards have jumpers for five or three volt ram, especially Socket 7 era boards. I beleive 3 volt is the norm, and what it should be set to. 5 volt is what Apples of the time tended to use.

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There could be something causing a short. Perhaps the cpu fan. That would explain no PSU activity even when shorting the pins, due to the protection in the power supply. Try unolugging the CPU fan, if so equipped, and try again. Alternately, use compressed or pressurized air to clean the board of any debris.

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So that Corsair VS350 is known to have Capxon capacitors in it, and well... they aren't really the best.

Do you have a multimeter handy? Check +5VSB.

Ideally, you crack it open and check it out... but you said it was new. Heck - with that in mind, you may end up returning it. I am not saying your mobo/CPU/setup is out the shadows of faultiness, but don't surprised if that PSU is DOA.

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Sorry - I missed your comment regarding the alternate mobo and PSU.

Aside from checking all jumper settings again just to make sure everything is configured properly, I'd think you would need to take an electrical approach just to make sure you don't have a short. Without any tools, you can really only do a visual inspection of the board. Check front and back for any abnormalities - foreign objects in sockets/slots, cracked solder joints, etc. Make sure you are shorting the appropriate PWR pins, etc.

You may want to pick up a multimeter - I bought my very first one at a pawn shop for $9. You can invest in a good one, but if money is holding you back - check for used ones.

You really need at least a multimeter to do the basic testing. PS_ON pin on the front panel connector should be at +5V whenever the PSU is attached and switched on. If it is not the case, the multiIO chip is probably dead. In this case mobo can be forced on by shorting PS_ON line on the ATX power connector (usually green wire, but may differ) to ground, but you are risking killing PS_ON circuit on the motherboard itself by doing that.

I have one of those motherboards. Care to share a high resolution picture to compare?

Please post pictures of YOUR board, as high res and as focused as possible.

Replace the coin battery with a new one. It is less likely, but some boards will not boot with a dead battery.

As I said before, the fact that the power supply can isn't spinning indicates that the board isn't even getting to POST. When I last experienced this, it was only a problem with the board in a particular case, probably causing a short. I know that yours is out of the case. This has to be something very fundamental. I doubt that both processors are bad, memory, unless destroyed, shouldn't cause this.

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PSU fan twitching is a clear sign something is indeed putting the PSU into protection mode. With the PSU connector unplugged from the board, take a paper clip or something and touch the green wire to a black wire and see if that spins the fan. If the fan spins, that means something on the board is bad.

Moogle! wrote:

PSU fan twitching is a clear sign something is indeed putting the PSU into protection mode. With the PSU connector unplugged from the board, take a paper clip or something and touch the green wire to a black wire and see if that spins the fan. If the fan spins, that means something on the board is bad.

He's already confirmed that it is working.

Any chance that this board requires -5V? It is an early ATX implementation, and Intel could be a stickler.

What was the first cpu and how was set the VRE jumper?