I opened the unit and i think i see whats wrong. There are 2 blown resistors near the PSU plug on the board.
So this will be a easy fix when i know what parts i need. Anyone can help?

So i contact KORG support and they are so kind to give me the service manual with the shematics.
I found it in the shematics but i dont know what they are??? They not in the parts list.
I need C121, C124, C129, C130 they look all the same typ with CE 3216.
Did anyone can tell me what they are?

That's funny, I just contacted Korg to ask for schematics or troubleshooting advice.
Is there any chance you could send me the service manual?

I've got an NX5R with an intermittent boot issue. Since it mostly happens only during warm start, I suspect a capacitor but it's apparently possible that heat cycling could have compromised the solder joints in other components near the PSU. I came across an instance of an NS5R where the crystal near the filter caps apparently detached from the board. Trying to investigate as much as possible before taking the shotgun approach of a full recap...!

And have you had any luck with your NS5R?

By the way, sorry, didn't answer your question.
The parts labeled Cxxx are capacitors. If there is a parts list elsewhere in the manual... [EDIT: linked in post below]

Went ahead and got it myself.

For any future searchers who might be hoping to troubleshoot one of these units, I am happy to share:
http://abandoned.tech/reference/Korg-NX5R-Service.pdf

Use 50V SMD capacitor around 20nF or so they are not for smoothing, is for suppressing noise hence value is small.

Cheers,

pentiumspeed wrote on 2020-10-24, 19:02:

Use 50V SMD capacitor around 20nF or so they are not for smoothing, is for suppressing noise hence value is small.

Cheers,

FYI for posterity -- My NS5R just let the smoke out -- I thought it was the transformer but ended up being one of these caps. They're tantalum. I measured them with my fluke when I took out the three "good" ones and they were all 130nF caps. I replaced them with .1 uF ceramic caps because -- that's what I had handy. When this blew it COMPLETELY destroyed the traces on the top side of the board.. no chance of fixing. I ended up having to use through-hole caps and scratch away the solder mask around the connector on the bottom of the board, bridging the cap between the pins from the transformer to the ground plane.

STRONGLY recommend replacing these BEFORE they blow. 15 minute fix if you catch it before it melts the traces. It didn't blow the fuse in my unit -- just kept smoking until I got to the plug to kill it. Also, it melted down after I turned it off (no sign of issue for the ~2 hours I was using it while playing a game) -- I think the switch might not be until after the rectifier (e.g. the transformer is always hot). So maybe keep it unplugged when not in use?

- Evan