VOGONS


Reply 20 of 39, by FesterBlatz

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This is what I ended up doing and so far it's been working out fine.

I put a thin strip of Scotch double-sided tape around the parameter of the heatsink and a layer of thermal compound in the center. I've done this on 3 CPUs now using random chipset heatsinks and so far the Scotch tape holds fine. This particular CPU is an IBM 5x86c I rescued from a "gold recovery" eBay seller in horrible shape. After hours of pin straightening and 2 new pins, it's currently running at 120MHz 3.35v passively cooled with this heatsink installed-no problems at all. The heatsink must be running about 60c and hasn't budged...so the Scotch tape doesn't seem to be affected too much by the heat.

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Yes, I know the EPROM erase window should be covered... I just programmed a different BIOS version yesterday and haven't had a chance to put a sicker over it yet.

Reply 21 of 39, by konc

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FesterBlatz wrote:

I put a thin strip of Scotch double-sided tape around the parameter of the heatsink and a layer of thermal compound in the center.

Hey, +1 for creativity! 🤣 I'm seriously not getting this though. Don't get me wrong, it's your CPU and your time spent practicing your hobby the way you like it. What I'm not getting is why ending up using tape, rather some proper thermal conductive adhesive. Also out of pure curiosity, how's "working out fine" measured? Just because it's still working?

Reply 22 of 39, by FesterBlatz

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I have plenty of thermal adhesive I normally use for building high powered LED reef tank lighting. Even a dime-sized deposit of the stuff is damn near perminant. I'm not interested in permanently attaching heatsinks to my CPUs.

My reasons for attempting this method are:

A) Attaches heatsink in a manor that can be easily removed without damaging the CPU

B) Although I don't have the necessary tools to confirm, I suspect the direct interface of thermal compound between the CPU and heatsink is a more effective thermal conductor then thermal tape which has two layers of adhesive sandwiching a thermal pad. Most thermal tapes are also considered a perminant bond.

What metrics do you use to determine the effectiveness of a CPU heatsink?

My definition of "working" in the context of this topic is, "effectively radiating heat away from the CPU while maintaining a temporary yet mechanically sound bond."

Reply 23 of 39, by feipoa

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konc wrote:
FesterBlatz wrote:

I put a thin strip of Scotch double-sided tape around the parameter of the heatsink and a layer of thermal compound in the center.

Hey, +1 for creativity! 🤣 I'm seriously not getting this though. Don't get me wrong, it's your CPU and your time spent practicing your hobby the way you like it. What I'm not getting is why ending up using tape, rather some proper thermal conductive adhesive. Also out of pure curiosity, how's "working out fine" measured? Just because it's still working?

The reasons for wanting a temporary bond were noted on page 1 of this thread. I think most, if not all, of those who have rare CPUs do not want to ruin the printed surface with a permanent thermal bonding agent.

I think I might muck up a 486 cooler with those clip things by cutting down the 486 heatsink, taking a chunk out of the centre, then bonding it back together. Only issue is there won't be a fan of the appropriate size to attach to the plastic posts. So I was thinking of cutting off the posts and glueing the clips to the heatsink.

Plan your life wisely, you'll be dead before you know it.

Reply 24 of 39, by Jade Falcon

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Just FYI and the same gose for TIM.

Tape is easier removed when it's hot/worm. In other words. Heat the system/cpu up and it's a lot less work to remove a taped on heat sink. That and cleaning up tim is easier when its hot.

Last edited by Jade Falcon on 2017-03-21, 01:43. Edited 2 times in total.

Reply 25 of 39, by feipoa

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Jade Falcon wrote:

Just FYI and the same gose for TIM... Tgat and clean up tim.

I have no idea what you are talking about. Are you speaking in code?

Anyway, I have ordered 4 or 5 tapes/pads off of eBay (China). Will test and report back.

Plan your life wisely, you'll be dead before you know it.

Reply 26 of 39, by Munx

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I use 3M double sided tape that I got form China via ebay for my voodoos. The heatsinks get quite warm so it seems to be doing its job.

My builds!
The FireStarter 2.0 - The wooden K5
The Underdog - The budget K6
The Voodoo powerhouse - The power-hungry K7
The troll PC - The Socket 423 Pentium 4

Reply 27 of 39, by Jade Falcon

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feipoa wrote:
Jade Falcon wrote:

Just FYI and the same gose for TIM... Tgat and clean up tim.

I have no idea what you are talking about. Are you speaking in code?

Anyway, I have ordered 4 or 5 tapes/pads off of eBay (China). Will test and report back.

Tim= thermals interface material. Like tape, pads and thermal compound

Reply 28 of 39, by brostenen

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feipoa wrote:
Jade Falcon wrote:

Just FYI and the same gose for TIM... Tgat and clean up tim.

I have no idea what you are talking about. Are you speaking in code?

Anyway, I have ordered 4 or 5 tapes/pads off of eBay (China). Will test and report back.

Curious too... I might be an old fart with rinckles and bad eye sight. 😁
Though... What is:

1: FYI
2: Tgat

I have absolutely no idea what all those shortening of words are.
Untill last quarter of 2016, I did not even know what YOLO was.
Yeah. I am old.... 🤣

Don't eat stuff off a 15 year old never cleaned cpu cooler.
Those cakes make you sick....

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Reply 29 of 39, by feipoa

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Well, that is one word more than me. What on earth is YOLO? Your Only Laughing Octopus? Yellow Ornaments Look Ominous? You Only Laugh Once?... eh, it must be You Only Live Once? Is that it!? I edited added these guesses over the course of a few minutes. Back in the 90's I used to play an online game called Acrophobia. Anyone heard of it?

I try to avoid the use of acronyms online because of the wide age range of readers who don't know what you're talking about. I still think the use of OK is okay though,

Plan your life wisely, you'll be dead before you know it.

Reply 30 of 39, by Jade Falcon

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Sorry? I'm bad at typing on a phone and add my dyslexia to the mix...
Anyway thgt should be that. Fyi is for your information.

And what's yolo? I'm on the younger side of life and don't even know that one. But I was raised my grandparents just as much as my parents if not more for a good part of my youth.

Reply 31 of 39, by Tetrium

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Yolo is putting together a complete rig of your rarest parts combined with lots of untested hardware (especially the PSU) and not wearing any safety glasses 😜

I once had my yolo moment when I went ahead and tested an unknown OEM motherboard without knowing if it uses a proprietary PSU pinout or not...and it did not 🤣

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Reply 32 of 39, by Jade Falcon

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Does Yolo=dumb?

Reply 33 of 39, by feipoa

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OK, so yolo means to do something "just simply" without any forethought?

Plan your life wisely, you'll be dead before you know it.

Reply 35 of 39, by Imperious

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Don't buy that stuff, it's rubbish. I should know as I tried it with an Intel 486 dx2-66 and the heatsink fell off after a month or so.

I ended up using some other 3m tape I got from my workplace, it has written numbers 468MP and 200MP written on it.
It may not be specifically designed for this purpose but the heatsink gets hot and it hasn't fell off.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3M-468MP-200MP-Cle … rtvXyOWzt2ITJzQ

On second thoughts try and find something cheaper, this stuff is damned expensive.

Atari 2600, TI994a, Vic20, c64, ZX Spectrum 128, Amstrad CPC464, Atari 65XE, Commodore Plus/4, Amiga 500
PC's from XT 8088, 486, Pentium MMX, K6, Athlon, P3, P4, 775, to current Ryzen 5600x.

Reply 36 of 39, by FesterBlatz

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I have some experience with 3M 468MP, it's commonly used in the 3D printing industry as an adhesive for attaching Polyetherimide sheets to a heated glass substrate as a build surface. I've personally used it up to 105C with no issues.

It's also RELENTLESSLY sticky-perhaps enough to be considered permanent, so care should be taken. I never considered using it for attaching heatsinks before, but it does a good job transferring heat to 3D printer heated build surfaces.

For those of us in the states, sheets of it can be purchased on Amazon for pretty cheap:

https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Adhesive-T … s/dp/B01JPWSY6A

Reply 37 of 39, by feipoa

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I ended up cutting down a 486 clip-on heatsink to fit 386 CPUs and using JB Weld to glue the centre back together. While one side I was able to do a straight cut-off, the centre needed a chunk removed so that the fan mounting clips would like up properly. I ordered a 30mm x 30mm fan, which fit just nicely over fan prongs.

The fan I used is HA30101V3-000U-A99 from Sunon (digikey part #259-1615-ND). It is rated as 3.5 CFM. There are also a 5.5 CFM and 4.6 CFM fan which fits 30x30, but seems overkill and noisier.

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Plan your life wisely, you'll be dead before you know it.

Reply 38 of 39, by feipoa

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I'll probably mod up one more of these 486 heatsink/fans. It isn't all that difficult.

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Plan your life wisely, you'll be dead before you know it.

Reply 39 of 39, by Tetrium

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Jade Falcon wrote:

Does Yolo=dumb?

I think the main difference is that dumb is just that: Dumb.

With yolo you actually have a choice 😜

@Feipoa, I'm amazed by your craftmanship skills! It looks fantastic!! 😁

Whats missing in your collections?
My retro rigs (old topic)
Interesting Vogons threads (links to Vogonswiki)
Report spammers here!