^ or leave the socket installed and don't bother with it: solder 2 pins and feed it 5v 😁

if you install the diode voltage will drop 0.7V.

Simple drop in a Wire, for the diode and from 1 to Pin 3 of 7805.

Feed 5V, but watch Polarity or it will die 😁

Thank you all for the information, I hope I wasn't the only one not knowing how to power the adapter and that more will find all these useful so that I don't feel bad flooding the thread with my questions 😁 I'll play it safe, I'll just solder the 7805 as well and feed it 12V since everything else is already in place.

konc wrote:

I'll play it safe, I'll just solder the 7805 as well and feed it 12V since everything else is already in place.

Just a reminder, since the barrel of the connector is +12V, you have to be extra careful when it's dangling around in the PC where all exposed metal you see is ground. So it might have been a bit safer if you left out the DC jack and just feed it +12V from molex connector and solder wires to PCB.

Got my kit, thanks matze79!

One small problem, the power adapter input has thick center pin so no standard power adapter (wall-wart) actually fits.
I'll have to buy another more standard one from ebay.
Please check this matze79.

If you ask me, I'd skip the 7805 altogether, there are plenty 5V adapters.

Got mine yesterday! So on the subject of the power adapter, has anyone found a suitable well priced one online they can link me to (I'm in the USA)?

After much soldering I removed the 7805 and the non-standard power supply input, along the way I destroyed some soldering pads because of heavy components with dual sided pads.
After I soldered an new more standard power supply input I noticed it is a negative center while practically all standard power supplies are positive center. 😠 😠

To other users, please check carefully how are you going to supply power to the unit, because it is an absolute nightmare to desolder from a dual sided PCB.

@matze79, I hope you take notes for your later PCBs.
* PSU input should be a a standard (thin center pin) and positive center.

bestemor wrote:

Only thing that happens is that the mouse optics lights up red (as they should), and some times the GREEN light on the adapter actually turns ON, and starts to continually blink on-off(500ms intervals) - indefinitely, while the RED light is not lit at all. Other times when I attach the mouse, there are no lights at all(nor green nor red), not even after waiting, and having the computer on or off when doing it does not affect that either.

Same here.
The mouse is Logitech M-SBF90.
I tried everything, it just doesn't work.

Did you solder the Diode ?
What Voltage to you supply to the adapter ?

The light should turn on even without a Computer and just a Mouse attached.
Did you also try another Mouse ?
maybe the mcu programing is defective ? do you own a isp programmer ? or esd damage ?
3$:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/USBTiny-USBtinyISP-AV … UgAAOSwTA9X4Oxq

Can you please provide Pictures of your Build ?

Whats really sucks is the part vendor supplied me with 2 different dcjacks so there two versions out now.
i would recommend to simply remove the damn connector of the powersupply and solder your own for few cents.

This is simple design error, the drawing was wrong connected and i havent noticed it.
But all Roland Equipment also use this Polarity.. and many audio components also.

Sorry i'm busy these days.. too much work, no time left 😒

Heilbar from dos-reloaded.de shows howto mount the Device internal:
http://dos-reloaded.de/forum/index.php/Thread … 17165#post17165

Sorry German language but Pictures are enough, so you can see.

matze79 wrote:

Heilbar from dos-reloaded.de shows howto mount the Device internal:
http://dos-reloaded.de/forum/index.php/Thread … 17165#post17165

Sorry German language but Pictures are enough, so you can see.

The slot cover mounting is really slick.

A different approach: Secure it wherever inside the case (I placed it at the bottom, insulated of course). Then get a normal ps/2 port on a bracket and replace the header that goes to the motherboard with a male ps/2 plug. This way nothing's hanging/showing/sticking out and the adapter can't get damaged in case of a clumsy move when plugging/unplugging the mouse.

Searching for this Mouse:

Felmar Loyd needs this Mouse for enhancement of the firmware to Support Wheelmouse.

Anyone has one laying around ? we need them to see how it works.

matze79 wrote:

Searching for this Mouse:
Felmar Loyd needs this Mouse for enhancement of the firmware to Support Wheelmouse.
Anyone has one laying around ? we need them to see how it works.

Is there something special about this wheelmouse not found in others?

Yes, its serial wheelmouse.

I wish I had one to donate to the cause, tbh I did not knew this mouse also came in serial ..!

Not going to buy it myself (have none), but this one looks like it fits the description picture rather well... 😀

http://www.ebay.com/itm/332305446604

I have bought a few of those in the past - that is, in the ps/2 format. For some reason, on all the units I bought, even NOS, the scroll wheel is incredibly difficult to move. It seems as if the rubber on the scroll wheel has expanded over time and rubs on the housing.

Finnish completing my first board 😀

Everything works as described and im happy with the result even if i did do it that well haha

But sadly im not that good with electronics so it would be nice if there is like a "stupid" instructions where stuff goes ( the right way also ), or it could be something i have missed in this forum.

Also there wasn't much room for the capacitors to sand next to each other, otherwise im happy with the board!

tabm0de wrote:

But sadly im not that good with electronics so it would be nice if there is like a "stupid" instructions where stuff goes ( the right way also ), or it could be something i have missed in this forum.

I made an illustration that may help, it is halfway page 8 of this topic. Here it is.