kithylin wrote:

386SX wrote:

So if they're good enough for HP mission-critical servers, they should be good enough for your home computers. If you search on google for PDF documents there's lists of FSP group units (FOR OEM) that are actually 80+ multi-tier of different color segments too. But FSP doesn't advertise this on the unit it's self. Unlike say EVGA or others "For home consumers" that flash it all over their units and boxes and stuff. With FSP you just have to look up the model # and know what you're buying. Which if you do some research can be a big benefit because without the labeling, sometimes people on ebay list gold and platinum tier FSP power supplies for cheaper than most counter-parts from the likes of Corsair, EVGA, ETC, just because they don't realize what they have.

There are some FSP units that flash the 80+ or 85+ on the side.. but there are also some nice 80+ oem ones that were inside like dell or hp desktops that are still 80+ but with no logo sometimes.

You will be surprised, by how many of those clueless PC master race types out there who thinks any PSU that isn't is a top tier branded 80+ Gold/Plat 650W or higher unit is a complete piece of crap that blows up in your face because they can't possibly power up a 90W TDP CPU and a 150W TDP GPU.

It's funny a decade or so ago little were paying attention to PSU quality, now the tables have turned where complete overkill is the norm.

I have no wattmeters to test my stock clocked 4790K/GTX1070 PC with, but it's a safe bet that it doesn't draw any more than 40W idle/200W gaming at the wall.

Palladium wrote:

You will be surprised, by how many of those clueless PC master race types out there who thinks any PSU that isn't is a top tier […]
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kithylin wrote:

386SX wrote:

So if they're good enough for HP mission-critical servers, they should be good enough for your home computers. If you search on google for PDF documents there's lists of FSP group units (FOR OEM) that are actually 80+ multi-tier of different color segments too. But FSP doesn't advertise this on the unit it's self. Unlike say EVGA or others "For home consumers" that flash it all over their units and boxes and stuff. With FSP you just have to look up the model # and know what you're buying. Which if you do some research can be a big benefit because without the labeling, sometimes people on ebay list gold and platinum tier FSP power supplies for cheaper than most counter-parts from the likes of Corsair, EVGA, ETC, just because they don't realize what they have.

There are some FSP units that flash the 80+ or 85+ on the side.. but there are also some nice 80+ oem ones that were inside like dell or hp desktops that are still 80+ but with no logo sometimes.

You will be surprised, by how many of those clueless PC master race types out there who thinks any PSU that isn't is a top tier branded 80+ Gold/Plat 650W or higher unit is a complete piece of crap that blows up in your face because they can't possibly power up a 90W TDP CPU and a 150W TDP GPU.

It's funny a decade or so ago little were paying attention to PSU quality, now the tables have turned where complete overkill is the norm.

I have no wattmeters to test my stock clocked 4790K/GTX1070 PC with, but it's a safe bet that it doesn't draw any more than 40W idle/200W gaming at the wall.

Taking a quick look at reviews it seems a gtx1070 uses around 160w (guru3d) and an overclocked 4790k uses around 140w (tomshardware). So in a system with a lot of fans etc. it may still peak to like 350w total?

Still VERY moderate considering the system you have. Comparing that to the last system i measured some years ago it is a massive difference! That was a x58 system with a i7 920@4ghz and a hd4890 or 5870.I believe it was around 550-600w? And at idle they made incredible steps now with cpu's taking it very easy at idle and graphics cards nearly shut off when at the desktop.

It's a fun subject and it is time to dust my meter off and measure some of my systems 🤣

Nah I don't overclock my 4790K, there's little point getting a measly 10% OC for a lot more power draw and when I'm nowhere even near being CPU bottlenecked in gaming. If you leave it at stock you can shave ~50W off that 140W you mentioned, and running games will also use far less power than stress testers that they use to measure the max power draw. Same goes for the GTX 1070.

What's also interesting is the 4GHz+ stock i7s and Pascal GPUs are tuned significantly outside of the frequency/power sweet spot out of the box. Kabylake i5s can now do 3.2GHz all cores full load at only 40W and THG has underclocked a GTX 1060 6GB down to 1600MHz @ 70W compared to the original 120W TDP, and that's still GTX970 level performance.

In short, you can now build a pretty potent gaming system that can draw less than 150W off the wall now in normal gaming loads, which is similar to idle power drawn by C2D systems 10 years ago! (C2D chips draw relatively little power by themselves, it was the mobos that were power inefficient.)

mr_bigmouth_502 wrote:

[... you're running an AM1 APU rig? How's the performance?

1x AM1 Athlon 5350 2.05GHz
ASUS AM1I-A
4GB (2x2GB) of DDR3 1600
1x SSD
1x HDD
3x 120mm fans
PSU Be Quiet Pure Power L8 300W 80+ Bronze (about 84% efficiency under a 50W DC load)

· PC turned off but plugged to wall (live +5VSB): 0.1 W
· Max peak observed while booting up: 60 W AC from the wall (about 50 W DC)
· Idling, HDD on/off: 22/28 W AC from the wall (about 18/24 W DC)
· Grinding Prime95 large FFTs: 45 W AC from the wall (about 39 W DC)
· AIDA64 Stability Test (CPU-FPU-Cache-Memory-GPU): 44 W AC from the wall (about 37 W DC)
· Logged Off: 23 W AC from the wall (about 19 W DC)
· STR3 Suspend to RAM: 1.7 W

. . . . . .

The integrated GPU performance is about on par with a Radeon 6450.

Here's my son's PC. I built it with power efficiency in mind, without compromising performance.
desktop idle: 47 watts
highest in 3dmark Time Spy: 196 watts
typical gaming uses much less power due to vsync being enabled

The only thing close to an overclock going on is I enabled multi-core enhancement in the BIOS.