GuillermoXT wrote on 2022-10-28, 21:56:

GuillermoXT wrote on 2022-10-26, 10:03:

PC Hoarder Patrol wrote on 2022-10-26, 03:18:

Between FCC ID (J4EM101), and this link -https://tldp.org/HOWTO/html_single/BTTV/ - suggests its an "AVerMedia AVer FunTV Lite (ISA, AV3001 chipset) M101.C"

This is the only download I can find atm (also listed online as averfun.zip)

d58730.zip

Cool thanks very much 🙂

Glad the seller noticed that he forgot to send the floppy and manual. I've got both today - where can i upload the driver files for those who might need them too?

Add them to the VOGONS Driver Library thread- Re: VOGONS Driver Library - and ask an account holder there to upload them

Vynix wrote on 2022-10-28, 14:04:

It didn't come with a power supply though, and from what I read the original PSU was a 12V 1.25A power brick outputting AC (which gets internally rectified to DC using a bridge rectifier on the EN/SC's board), the closest compatible power brick I have outputs 12V DC at 1.2A, so I went with that and the EN/SC sprang up to life.

I think the Sega Genesis/Megadrive adapters were AC, dunno if you'd still find one of those in a junk store. Alternatively, if you find a big old heavy DC adapter that puts out 9 or 10 volts, if you pull power from the input of the rectifier bridge it should be around 12V. Don't get any wiring anywhere near the wall voltage side of the transformer though.

So did one of yall buy a Savage 2000 or FX 5900 Ultra on ebay tonight

Negative. I have way too many FX 5900s as it is. I don't think I have a 256MB one, but I wouldn't spend $300 for one.

candle_86 wrote on 2022-10-29, 04:55:

So did one of yall buy a Savage 2000 or FX 5900 Ultra on ebay tonight

Nope, I did buy a 512Mb DDR3 8400GS PCI, got sick of trawling ATI cards for a X1550 PCI or 2400 PRO PCI.

Good Day
I am looking for BIOS image for FIC-386GT VIA VT82C486
BIOS 3.01

BitWrangler wrote on 2022-10-29, 04:05:

Vynix wrote on 2022-10-28, 14:04:

It didn't come with a power supply though, and from what I read the original PSU was a 12V 1.25A power brick outputting AC (which gets internally rectified to DC using a bridge rectifier on the EN/SC's board), the closest compatible power brick I have outputs 12V DC at 1.2A, so I went with that and the EN/SC sprang up to life.

I think the Sega Genesis/Megadrive adapters were AC, dunno if you'd still find one of those in a junk store. Alternatively, if you find a big old heavy DC adapter that puts out 9 or 10 volts, if you pull power from the input of the rectifier bridge it should be around 12V. Don't get any wiring anywhere near the wall voltage side of the transformer though.

Oh speaking of which, I'm sure I got one such adapter like that somewhere, it came with a Master System 1 but I don't really know if it outputs the proper voltage.

Re: modding a DC PSU - I've thought about this, but given how most wall warts like these are glued shut, this is going to be a little bit complicated but nothing insurmountable.

For now I've not yet got the opportunity of fully testing it as I don't have a compatible machine to pair it with... Unless my PM7500 actually will work, I don't know.

Vynix wrote on 2022-10-29, 07:53:

Re: modding a DC PSU - I've thought about this, but given how most wall warts like these are glued shut, this is going to be a little bit complicated but nothing insurmountable.

For opening plastic welded power bricks, try rubbing a few drops of petrol where the weld is. It softens the plastic just enough that with a little massaging the brick will pop open with no damage bar, depending on the type of plastic it uses, a slight discoloration where the petrol was.
Once dry glue it shut with cyanoacrilate.

candle_86 wrote on 2022-10-29, 04:55:

So did one of yall buy a Savage 2000 or FX 5900 Ultra on ebay tonight

Wanted it but I opted to buy two MSI 5900XTs for 80 dollars and one of those NV Silencers. Shouln't have a problem overclocking to Ultra level with one of those. And I got a backup card incase I burn one. Not sure whos spending 300 for old shit but it's not me.

Vynix wrote on 2022-10-29, 07:53:

Oh speaking of which, I'm sure I got one such adapter like that somewhere, it came with a Master System 1 but I don't really kno […]
Show full quote

BitWrangler wrote on 2022-10-29, 04:05:

Vynix wrote on 2022-10-28, 14:04:

It didn't come with a power supply though, and from what I read the original PSU was a 12V 1.25A power brick outputting AC (which gets internally rectified to DC using a bridge rectifier on the EN/SC's board), the closest compatible power brick I have outputs 12V DC at 1.2A, so I went with that and the EN/SC sprang up to life.

I think the Sega Genesis/Megadrive adapters were AC, dunno if you'd still find one of those in a junk store. Alternatively, if you find a big old heavy DC adapter that puts out 9 or 10 volts, if you pull power from the input of the rectifier bridge it should be around 12V. Don't get any wiring anywhere near the wall voltage side of the transformer though.

Oh speaking of which, I'm sure I got one such adapter like that somewhere, it came with a Master System 1 but I don't really know if it outputs the proper voltage.

Re: modding a DC PSU - I've thought about this, but given how most wall warts like these are glued shut, this is going to be a little bit complicated but nothing insurmountable.

For now I've not yet got the opportunity of fully testing it as I don't have a compatible machine to pair it with... Unless my PM7500 actually will work, I don't know.

I missed how you got it going with a DC adapter, but it probably drops between 1 and 1.5V going through it's internal reg still, so if you can find a 13.5 or 14V DC it will put the voltage just high enough that it shouldn't brown out at higher loads on the device. If you suspect it has another voltage derived from AC for another function, then that may be absent.

Also doorbell transformers from the hardware store used to be a low voltage AC thing you could get hold of. Not sure they handle more than half an amp though.

Warlord wrote on 2022-10-29, 09:39:

candle_86 wrote on 2022-10-29, 04:55:

So did one of yall buy a Savage 2000 or FX 5900 Ultra on ebay tonight

Wanted it but I opted to buy two MSI 5900XTs for 80 dollars and one of those NV Silencers. Shouln't have a problem overclocking to Ultra level with one of those. And I got a backup card incase I burn one. Not sure whos spending 300 for old shit but it's not me.

I'm not sure either

Got this Mitsumi double-speed CD-ROM and ISA controller card. This is going to go in a multimedia 286 build I'm working on.

It also looks like a previous owner added some wires soldered to the audio outs for connecting to an internal sound card.

PIII 866mhz slot 1 CPU, came with free gigabyte motherboard, ram, 9200se, ct4830 and yellowed live drive 2 for 35 quid total. The gigabyte is an OEM with aureal chip missing. Want to upgrade my 700mhz p3 440bx voodoo3 build in the future but not in a rush. The asrock athlon xp socket a build had hit it out of the park. Who knew the early 2000's build/platform I hated when I had windows xp is the perfect win98 machine, albeit with newer tech like sata drives (makes a world of difference compared to the ide drives back in the day), better know-how, drivers etc... Plus my Logitech m590 works like a charm on this via nec 2.0 no gremlins thus far except Lockup when cdslow 5.2 detected dvd. Can ignore drives manually and activate when you want to slow down cd, so there is a workaround

I have been buying up an embarrassing amount of CF cards lately. They are my favorite method of storage for IDE, as they are small, fast, compatible, and easy to swap around. I try to get them in quantity, so that I can install different operating systems like Windows 98, ME, DOS, and swap them in and out to test various configurations. It's just so convenient. When I'm finished, I just dump them all into a plastic bag and toss them into a bin.

They are available in sizes that are also great for testing drive capacity, at 512MB, 8GB, 32GB, etc.

There are double-sided CF card adapters, so you don't have to compromise on the number of attached devices either. They seem to be harder to come by nowadays, though. The most common and cheapest adapters are only single-sided.

andrea wrote on 2022-10-29, 08:50:

[snip]

For opening plastic welded power bricks, try rubbing a few drops of petrol where the weld is. It softens the plastic just enough that with a little massaging the brick will pop open with no damage bar, depending on the type of plastic it uses, a slight discoloration where the petrol was.
Once dry glue it shut with cyanoacrilate.

Oh that won't be a big problem for me, I'm not too worried if it looks ugly, so as long it works..

BitWrangler wrote on 2022-10-29, 13:24:

I missed how you got it going with a DC adapter, but it probably drops between 1 and 1.5V going through it's internal reg still, so if you can find a 13.5 or 14V DC it will put the voltage just high enough that it shouldn't brown out at higher loads on the device. If you suspect it has another voltage derived from AC for another function, then that may be absent.

Also doorbell transformers from the hardware store used to be a low voltage AC thing you could get hold of. Not sure they handle more than half an amp though.

No worries :) from a cursory look to the board, it doesn't look like anything that requires AC on the board, so I guess we're good on that point, if push comes to shove, I could probably remove the rectifier from the board itself, but given how scarce and expensive these SCSI Ethernet interfaces are, I'm a little bit hesitant to do so. For now it seems to be powering up okay, I'll keep that suggestion in mind.

----

Another thing I completely forgot to mention I bought (but recently received) was a SCSI enclosure, this time it's not for a PC or Mac, but rather this is for a Akai MPC sampler that belongs to one of my friends, it came in with a Toshiba XM-5701B drive but I was only interested in the enclosure itself (in which a Microtech PCD-47B is going in). And, oh boy what a mess it arrived in...

I regrettably forgot to take pictures (I'm not home at the moment) but the least I can do is describe the situation as well as I can:

The box where the enclosure was in had a huge dent on the side (uh-oh), which already didn't bode well, but upon opening it, I found it was rattling loose (with the sole padding material used a flattened egg carton and some magazines scraps) in the box (uh-oh #2) and the bezel instead of being flush, was now sitting at an angle (uh-oh #3).

Fearing the worst, I pulled the enclosure, and sure enough, it was held shut. The cover was bent at the bottom, the screws were missing.. Had to pry the thing open like an oyster with a big flathead screwdriver, and that's when I saw that the bezel was intact, no clips broke or anything, putting it back where it should be was just a matter of popping off the clips and clipping it back in. Good as new! Sort of...

But the cover, ugh... It's like an AT case cover except it's more of an elongated C-shape (versus an AT case cover being more U-shaped), with the screws holding the case being on the bottom.

And yes, the cover is bent to hell and back but at least I managed to bend it enough so it slides... I'll have to hammer that back in place and find some screws, I figured, I'd probably repaint the whole enclosure anyways.

The problem though... It didn't come with any screws (though the seller sold the case as for parts) whatsoever, and while I thought it would come empty, and about the Toshiba XM-5701B CD drive that came with, it seems to be still working despite having taken a helluva beating (unlike the Yamaha CD drive I bought and turned out to be DOA...), so there's that.

Now another surprising thing, the enclosure lacked the RCA audio thingy on the back for the CD drive, but I'm going to repurpose that and rig up a switch to toggle termination on the Microtech card reader.. Those holes on the back where the RCA jacks would normally come are going to come in handy.

As I said, I forgot to take pictures, so the only pics I'd be able to take will be most likely "after" pics after I'm done patching up that thing..

Two sets of 90's computer speakers arrived today. I've wanted some nice beige or white speakers for a couple of years now but i could only find cheap chinese small 3w tinny speakers locally for a long time now, and Roland MA8's are way too expensive for my budget (considering most are 100+ dollars and ship from the US or Japan). A while ago I got a great deal on Logitech Z200 white 2.0 speakers and bought 4 new sets for 65$, but they have one big problem - they're not magnetically shielded. Not exactly retro-looking either. But I finally found these:

One set is made by Boeder. Interesting choice for a logo (db). The other is made by Vienna Acoustics. They both sound great for 20 something year old speakers with plastic enclosures. The volume pot on the Boeder set is a bit crusty tough, but nothing a bit of contact cleaner can't fix.

Kahenraz wrote on 2022-10-29, 21:23:

I have been buying up an embarrassing amount of CF cards lately. They are my favorite method of storage for IDE, as they are small, fast, compatible, and easy to swap around. I try to get them in quantity, so that I can install different operating systems like Windows 98, ME, DOS, and swap them in and out to test various configurations. It's just so convenient. When I'm finished, I just dump them all into a plastic bag and toss them into a bin.

CF cards are amazingly convenient for retro builds. It still blows my mind that I can partition, format and install DOS on a 2 GB card in under 10 mins. In constrast to how long it used to take with a traditional HDD, CF cards are fantastic.

Socket3 wrote on 2022-10-29, 21:45:

One set is made by Boeder. Interesting choice for a logo (db). The other is made by Vienna Acoustics. They both sound great for 20 something year old speakers with plastic enclosures. The volume pot on the Boeder set is a bit crusty tough, but nothing a bit of contact cleaner can't fix.

Those are some interesting looking speakers! They definitely fit that 90s retro feel.

How do they sound?

Shponglefan wrote on 2022-10-29, 22:49:

Those are some interesting looking speakers! They definitely fit that 90s retro feel.

How do they sound?

The Vienna acoustics set sounds amazing. 12w drivers, but the amp can only do about 2x8 watts so even on full volume they don't buzz or distort. No noise, even when touching the jack. All potentiometers are in perfect condition. No hissing or cutting out one speaker when turning them. Great treble and mids, surprisingly punchy bass, very, very clear sound. Very appropriate for dos games and general midi. Listened to track 3 of lotus ultimate challenge 5 times in a row when I first plugged them in.

The boeder set is heavyer on bass and very, very loud. Haven't taken them apart yet, but I'll bet the drivers are 15 watt. The pots are very dirty so the speakers crackle and hiss whenever you touch the volume knob. They also have a "3d audio" button witch seems to be some sort of overdrive, making the speakers louder and the sound deeper.

Overall I'm extremely happy with them, especially since they look and sound great, and I only payed 50$ for them. Shipped.

I bought an ESS Solo-1 with a Wavetable header (seller's photo, not mine). It's hard to find these with the header on them. I've read that if you solder the pin header onto a card without one, it will work just fine. I've never tried it though.

Kahenraz wrote on 2022-10-29, 21:23:

I have been buying up an embarrassing amount of CF cards lately. They are my favorite method of storage for IDE, as they are sma […]
Show full quote

I have been buying up an embarrassing amount of CF cards lately. They are my favorite method of storage for IDE, as they are small, fast, compatible, and easy to swap around. I try to get them in quantity, so that I can install different operating systems like Windows 98, ME, DOS, and swap them in and out to test various configurations. It's just so convenient. When I'm finished, I just dump them all into a plastic bag and toss them into a bin.

They are available in sizes that are also great for testing drive capacity, at 512MB, 8GB, 32GB, etc.

There are double-sided CF card adapters, so you don't have to compromise on the number of attached devices either. They seem to be harder to come by nowadays, though. The most common and cheapest adapters are only single-sided.

s-l1600.jpg

Ali Express has a lot of the dual CF ones for sale. About 23,000 of them...for 3.20 US each. Not sure you can go much cheaper but Ali does have sales a lot so its possible you could get them for a couple of bucks at which point the postage is substantially more than the cost so you then have to buy a bunch of them.