Turbo -> wrote on 2023-12-07, 17:42:

PD2JK wrote on 2023-12-07, 15:28:

Well, I got myself thrown into the world of external midi devices. Got this for relatively cheap.

What is the difference between this one and Roland MT-32?

Also note that not all SC-55s are 100% GM compatible. The early models were GS; I think that GM was not formally ratified just yet? The later models were GS/GM. You can see this by the presence of the General MIDI logo on the front bezel. I think there may also be an issue with the device responding to the GM reset command versus the GS reset command.

The effect seems to be very minor. See here for more information:

Roland SC-55 and MIDI compatibility

The earliest Roland SC-55s simply have a "GS STANDARD" logo on the bottom of the front panel, while slightly later SC-55s have a "GS" logo. Modules with the GS logo may still have General MIDI firmware.

There are also several different firmware revisions of the SC-55, with the latter 2.0 versions sounding slightly different due to a lawsuit from Yamaha regarding the capital tone fallback feature.

Depending on whether the game was made for the SC-88 or the SC-55, you might also run out of instrument polyphony, even though the music is still General MIDI.

Here is some additional information related to your SC-55:

Significant differences with certain MIDI files across Roland synthesizers

PCB destroying adhesive found in my Roland Sound Canvas SC-55mkII (inspect your synthesizer!)

Roland SC-55 Refurbishment

Have you opened your SC-55 to check the battery inside?

Welcome to the rabbit hole.

justin1985 wrote on 2023-12-07, 22:36:

This little SocketA PC just arrived from eBay - I bought it because I was weirdly attracted to its kind of ugly early 2000s look, and the fact it was super compact for a case that takes full height expansion cards and has full sized 5.25" and 3.5" drive bays (hidden under the flap at the top).

IMG20231207214952.jpg

The eBay photos looked a little more black than grey, and I hadn't noticed that there were also clearly drive bay and front USB covers which are missing, but I still think it has something about it! The notch round the middle feels like it's trying to look a bit like a 90s game console? Does anyone recognise it?

This is a YeongYang case.

https://www.yycase.com/Mini-Tower-A2-Series.html
https://www.yang-it.de/product-category/pc-ca … iny-tower-cases

I had one of this long time ago (the A202 variant), this is a really nice case imho. Good build quality, very compact for its time and with many different front options.
Don't know if they still sell it but if one likes late 90 early 2000 styles in a compact form this is the one for you.

PD2JK wrote on 2023-12-07, 15:28:

Well, I got myself thrown into the world of external midi devices. Got this for relatively cheap.

Don't forget to change the battery inside.
They can leak.

acl wrote on 2023-12-08, 07:25:

PD2JK wrote on 2023-12-07, 15:28:

Well, I got myself thrown into the world of external midi devices. Got this for relatively cheap.

Don't forget to change the battery inside.
They can leak.

The battery isn't needed for games and the assurance that no modifications will remain in memory is a convenience.

Kahenraz wrote on 2023-12-08, 07:49:

acl wrote on 2023-12-08, 07:25:

PD2JK wrote on 2023-12-07, 15:28:

Well, I got myself thrown into the world of external midi devices. Got this for relatively cheap.

Don't forget to change the battery inside.
They can leak.

The battery isn't needed for games and the assurance that no modifications will remain in memory is a convenience.

True. But even if you don't intend to use the battery powered config save, removing the 20+ years old battery is a good idea.
Mine (and a lot of other people's) had batteries that started to leak.

Kahenraz wrote on 2023-12-08, 06:44:

This case screams Sharp X68000 to me. Very nice.

Oooh I'd never seen these before, but now you say, it really does look like it's trying to be a direct copy doesn't it!

Perhaps a bit of a shame that all those ribs on the front look like they should be concealing air intake vents but they're just ribs.

ChrisK wrote on 2023-12-08, 07:01:

This is a YeongYang case. […]
Show full quote

This is a YeongYang case.

https://www.yycase.com/Mini-Tower-A2-Series.html
https://www.yang-it.de/product-category/pc-ca … iny-tower-cases

I had one of this long time ago (the A202 variant), this is a really nice case imho. Good build quality, very compact for its time and with many different front options.
Don't know if they still sell it but if one likes late 90 early 2000 styles in a compact form this is the one for you.

Amazing, thank you! The slightly more modern versions on the website with the wavy silver and black front fascia certainly look a bit more familiar.

I'm definitely keen to get it tidied up, and maybe give the opening side panel a fresh coat with anthracite spray paint, as it's got quite a few scratches.

Don't know whether to keep the Athlon XP in it, or move that to an even more compact case I have (FSP L12) and use this one for a mATX Slot 1 PIII build ... Somehow the chunky aesthetic seems to suggest slot processors to me!

debs3759 wrote on 2023-12-07, 23:09:

I'd open up the PSU and check the caps. It shouldn't be screaming at you, even if it is a cheap old thing.

Shouldn't do any harm - I'll take a look! Are capacitors the "usual suspects" in PSUs that whine?

I'm tempted to replace the PSU anyway, but SFX seems a bit more expensive than ATX, and new ones all come with mainly SATA power connectors 🙁

There are inexpensive SATA to Molex adapters.

Kahenraz wrote on 2023-12-08, 08:04:

There are inexpensive SATA to Molex adapters.

Ah yes the good old chinesium deathdapters that may or may not melt and set fire to your components, I think I would rather find a better solution than using a cheap Molex/Sata adapter.

And yes I know not all people have had this happen .. I have and I still regret taking the cheap way out even all these years later, I killed three HDDs using one adapter. It melted and shorted out one drive which caused a short that then killed the other drives attached to the same rail.

A freak occurrence Im sure but I have read other stories about similar things occurring with these cheap chinesium adapters.

One point is just that, two points makes a line and a line makes a trend and the trend for cheap chinesium anything is "Avoid if you value your stuff".

Trashbytes wrote on 2023-12-08, 10:03:

Kahenraz wrote on 2023-12-08, 08:04:

There are inexpensive SATA to Molex adapters.

Ah yes the good old chinesium deathdapters that may or may not melt and set fire to your components, I think I would rather find a better solution than using a cheap Molex/Sata adapter.

This isn't the first time I've heard this advice ... I guess SATA power has many small connections that are easily bridged if the adapter is not well made?

Why DOES SATA power have many small pins rather than fewer larger ones? Superficially it seems a bit of a dumb design ...

If cleaning up + checking the existing PSU doesn't get rid of the whine (and / or for my own reassurance) I was considering picking up a used but known brand SFX PSU - something like a Delta or Enlight brand 350w that seem to be around, with plenty of Molex connectors and a decent amp rating on the 5V. Alas most of them seem to have the fan jutting out on the bottom, and I suspect the cross-beam in this case would get in the way, which limits options quite a bit. They're all also at least £20 - about the same as the current value of the motherboard etc ...

Worth it or not?

Trashbytes wrote on 2023-12-08, 10:03:

Ah yes the good old chinesium deathdapters that may or may not melt and set fire to your components, I think I would rather find […]
Show full quote

Kahenraz wrote on 2023-12-08, 08:04:

There are inexpensive SATA to Molex adapters.

Ah yes the good old chinesium deathdapters that may or may not melt and set fire to your components, I think I would rather find a better solution than using a cheap Molex/Sata adapter.

And yes I know not all people have had this happen .. I have and I still regret taking the cheap way out even all these years later, I killed three HDDs using one adapter. It melted and shorted out one drive which caused a short that then killed the other drives attached to the same rail.

A freak occurrence Im sure but I have read other stories about similar things occurring with these cheap chinesium adapters.

One point is just that, two points makes a line and a line makes a trend and the trend for cheap chinesium anything is "Avoid if you value your stuff".

I have had this happen one with a bad cable. A SSD has mysteriously died. When I attached the cable to the replacement there was an audible "sizzle".

I still need these adapters, so I meticulously test them now in a PSU tester before storing them as "known good" and before inserting then into components.

justin1985 wrote on 2023-12-08, 13:15:

This isn't the first time I've heard this advice ... I guess SATA power has many small connections that are easily bridged if th […]
Show full quote

Trashbytes wrote on 2023-12-08, 10:03:

Kahenraz wrote on 2023-12-08, 08:04:

There are inexpensive SATA to Molex adapters.

Ah yes the good old chinesium deathdapters that may or may not melt and set fire to your components, I think I would rather find a better solution than using a cheap Molex/Sata adapter.

This isn't the first time I've heard this advice ... I guess SATA power has many small connections that are easily bridged if the adapter is not well made?

Why DOES SATA power have many small pins rather than fewer larger ones? Superficially it seems a bit of a dumb design ...

If cleaning up + checking the existing PSU doesn't get rid of the whine (and / or for my own reassurance) I was considering picking up a used but known brand SFX PSU - something like a Delta or Enlight brand 350w that seem to be around, with plenty of Molex connectors and a decent amp rating on the 5V. Alas most of them seem to have the fan jutting out on the bottom, and I suspect the cross-beam in this case would get in the way, which limits options quite a bit. They're all also at least £20 - about the same as the current value of the motherboard etc ...

Worth it or not?

No Sata is a good standard its the Molex end that fails 90% of the time, the cheap Chinesium adapters dont exactly build the Molex parts with as much durability as they require or with enough plastic isolation so inevitably the metal crimps will work themselves into a place where they can short out on each other. That said I have seen the Sata end fail too usually for similar reasons the Molex end fails.

debs3759 wrote:

I'd open up the PSU and check the caps. It shouldn't be screaming at you, even if it is a cheap old thing.

Well, opening it up certainly revealed some horrors! Mainly dirt, but also some weird brown crumbly stuff that had clearly been glue/resin attached to the copper coils. These photos are after an initial clean with a vacuum and a brush.

On the side closest to the power inlet it kind of looks like something had been expanding and pushing towards the back? Don't know if that was just the resin, or whatever the dark red component is?

There's also some some attached to a coil in the middle.

The noise it makes is what I think of as "coil whine", so does it make sense that this gunk had been intended to bind the coils and stop them vibrating?

Would re-coating the coils with 2-part epoxy glue or something be likely to help?

Or is this a sign of a PSU that's on the way out? (Or too cheap and nasty to bother with?)

For my midi sound setup i got a Alesis D4 Drum module.

For 40 euros i couldnt say no...

I already have a Alesis SR 16 Drum Computer and the quality is ok and the sounds are usable...
But a rack unit looks nicer 😁

justin1985 wrote on 2023-12-08, 20:33:

Well, opening it up certainly revealed some horrors! Mainly dirt, but also some weird brown crumbly stuff that had clearly been glue/resin attached to the copper coils.

Oh no, that looks like the deadly brown glue that was used in many power supplies back then (even good ones)! That thing degrades and becomes conductive with time, so it can short components with disastrous consequences! Not saying it is the cause of your current issues, but given that the coils have been covered with it I'd be suspicious.

justin1985 wrote on 2023-12-08, 20:33:

debs3759 wrote:

I'd open up the PSU and check the caps. It shouldn't be screaming at you, even if it is a cheap old thing.

Well, opening it up certainly revealed some horrors! Mainly dirt, but also some weird brown crumbly stuff that had clearly been glue/resin attached to the copper coils. These photos are after an initial clean with a vacuum and a brush.

You can go through that with a dry brush and compresses air, but I wouldn't recommend that you go poking about in a power supply without adequate knowledge. Capacitors will often retain a charge.

If that is the infamous brown adhesive, then it would be wise to replace the whole PSU. See here for more information:

PCB destroying adhesive found in my Roland Sound Canvas SC-55mkII (inspect your synthesizer!)

Here is a link to the Adrian's Digital Basement episode where he found a similar adhesive that had corroded parts of a circuit board he was working on.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mLVbmnViz7I&t=1089s

Kahenraz wrote on 2023-12-08, 21:59:

You can go through that with a dry brush and compresses air, but I wouldn't recommend that you go poking about in a power supply […]
Show full quote

justin1985 wrote on 2023-12-08, 20:33:

debs3759 wrote:

I'd open up the PSU and check the caps. It shouldn't be screaming at you, even if it is a cheap old thing.

Well, opening it up certainly revealed some horrors! Mainly dirt, but also some weird brown crumbly stuff that had clearly been glue/resin attached to the copper coils. These photos are after an initial clean with a vacuum and a brush.

You can go through that with a dry brush and compresses air, but I wouldn't recommend that you go poking about in a power supply without adequate knowledge. Capacitors will often retain a charge.

If that is the infamous brown adhesive, then it would be wise to replace the whole PSU. See here for more information:

PCB destroying adhesive found in my Roland Sound Canvas SC-55mkII (inspect your synthesizer!)

Here is a link to the Adrian's Digital Basement episode where he found a similar adhesive that had corroded parts of a circuit board he was working on.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mLVbmnViz7I&t=1089s

I'm reasonably confident with a multimeter (from a different hobby!) ... but yup, I'm sold on replacing it now! I've ordered a 'refurbished' Delta brand one for now (listing accepts returns, so I'll check carefully before installing it).

PD2JK wrote on 2023-12-07, 15:28:

Well, I got myself thrown into the world of external midi devices. Got this for relatively cheap.

Awesome!! Congratulations! You won’t be disappointed. I own a bunch of MIDI modules but the sc55 is still my favorite. Really great purchase!

justin1985 wrote on 2023-12-07, 22:36:

This little SocketA PC just arrived from eBay - I bought it because I was weirdly attracted to its kind of ugly early 2000s look […]
Show full quote

This little SocketA PC just arrived from eBay - I bought it because I was weirdly attracted to its kind of ugly early 2000s look, and the fact it was super compact for a case that takes full height expansion cards and has full sized 5.25" and 3.5" drive bays (hidden under the flap at the top).

IMG20231207214952.jpg

The eBay photos looked a little more black than grey, and I hadn't noticed that there were also clearly drive bay and front USB covers which are missing, but I still think it has something about it! The notch round the middle feels like it's trying to look a bit like a 90s game console? Does anyone recognise it?

IMG20231207214543.jpg

The system itself is pretty dirty, but the Asrock K7VM4 seems in pretty good condition with no bulging caps or anything. It came with an Athlon XP 2500 and 1Gb of DDR RAM and the CD-RW but no HDD or floppy.

It POSTs happily, although the cheap looking little SFX PSU seems to make a really piercing whine the moment it is connected to a socket, even before it boots. I'm guessing that is just being cheap and nasty from the start? Or would it be worth opening it up to clean out and check for failing components to see if that helps?

IMG20231207213752.jpg

Lovely, a Yeong Yang A200 series case 😀 That's pretty much my favourite style of case, very few compromises required but it's a lot smaller - even better now that small form factor PCs are much more mainstream, SFX power supplies that are not electrical safety hazards are much easier to get hold of.
In fact, I like this particular case so much that I even designed a retro style front-bezel for mine: Re: What retro activity did you get up to today? 😁

zwrr wrote on 2023-12-08, 06:00:

For $16,I got this, Paradise WD90C33-ZZ, have purchased the V53C8256HP45 chip, ready to upgrade it to 2MB, expecting it to have good performance.

WD90C33-1.jpg

Wow nice find, where are you sourcing those memory chips from? I need to get some for my ET4000-W32p card.

DerBaum wrote on 2023-12-08, 20:37:

For my midi sound setup i got a Alesis D4 Drum module. 2023-12-08 21.18.01.jpg For 40 euros i couldnt say no... […]
Show full quote

For my midi sound setup i got a Alesis D4 Drum module.
2023-12-08 21.18.01.jpg
For 40 euros i couldnt say no...

I already have a Alesis SR 16 Drum Computer and the quality is ok and the sounds are usable...
But a rack unit looks nicer 😁

Are you using this for DOS gaming? If so, I'd be interested in learning about how it works? For example, can you just reroute the drum sounds to it and play the other instruments with another device?

Ensign Nemo wrote on 2023-12-09, 02:29:

DerBaum wrote on 2023-12-08, 20:37:

For my midi sound setup i got a Alesis D4 Drum module. 2023-12-08 21.18.01.jpg For 40 euros i couldnt say no... […]
Show full quote

For my midi sound setup i got a Alesis D4 Drum module.
2023-12-08 21.18.01.jpg
For 40 euros i couldnt say no...

I already have a Alesis SR 16 Drum Computer and the quality is ok and the sounds are usable...
But a rack unit looks nicer 😁

Are you using this for DOS gaming? If so, I'd be interested in learning about how it works? For example, can you just reroute the drum sounds to it and play the other instruments with another device?

It's not a GM device so wouldn't work with DOS gaming. You'd need a way to remap the instruments, plus there is the issue of instrument balancing.