Well, in my opinion, the Via Apollo PIII chipset is quite good. The reason it's not seen as 'desirable' is a mostly undeserved reputation for instability and inferior performance. I think some of their Socket 7 chipsets were a little dodgy, but the PIII chipsets were fine, in my experience.
It's true that there were some stability problems, but I think it was mostly due to a couple bad driver revisions and a few random pieces of add-in hardware that didn't play nice with it. I never personally had a problem with it, though, and many others had experiences similar to mine.
It also takes a bit of tweaking to get the Via Apollo to perform as well as its Intel counterpart. Memory performance was the big thing. However, contrary to popular belief, it can be made to perform nearly as well as the 440BX, provided that the BIOS allows the necessary adjustments to the RAM timings and such. It's not like the VIA is slow, anyhow... we're only talking about a few % lag behind the Intel chipset.
Given the choice, I'd still generally take a 440BX over a Via Apollo, since the 440BX is generally a bit more straightforward 'slap it together and go', but I see no reason not to use a Via board if you have one... it may take a little more effort to get everything 'just right,' but it's really not hard to do.