Custom bracket with Alps pot = yay 😉

Logistics wrote:

Custom bracket with Alps pot = yay 😉

Sorry but I have no idea what you're trying to say 😀

Are these parts hard to source?

Can you find any numbers or markings on them? You may have to remove them first as they could be marked on the back side.

And that Roland pot, looks more like an encoder. Am I right?

Regarding the CM-32L...

Panasonic EVJY90F01B54, 50kΩ (B) x 2
Roland part #13279926

Roland US or AU should have one available for purchase. If not, and you can't find the exact Panasonic part elsewhere, ALPS' RK14K124-series pots are supposedly equivalent.

What, exactly, is the issue though? Are the pots simply dirty/scratchy? A "fader lube" product might save you the effort of replacing things.

Mau1wurf1977 wrote:

Logistics wrote:

Custom bracket with Alps pot = yay 😉

Sorry but I have no idea what you're trying to say 😀

Are these parts hard to source?

Your card has a Thumb-Wheel potentiometer. I was just looking at some in Digi-Key's catalog, but I haven't found one that has a matching pin arrangement.

Anyway, Alps are some of the better potentiometers in the audio scene and I would just suggesting ditching the thumb-wheel, taking one of the blanks next to your sound-card and drilling a hole in it, installing a chassis-mount Alps pot and wiring it by hand. Okay, this is kind of extreme unless you're going to mod the rest of your sound-card componentry, but it sounded good. 😁

Edit: I agree with him, the Panasonic part seems to match up. Go to digikey.com and search P2E9503-ND and it should come right up.

Cloudschatze wrote:

What, exactly, is the issue though? Are the pots simply dirty/scratchy? A "fader lube" product might save you the effort of replacing things.

On the Roland, I only get full Stereo when turned all the way to the rigth. Wiggling the knob or turning it to the left and the left channel becomes very weak.

The Sound Blaster 1.5 has a similar issue. I only get full Stereo when I push the dial down a certain way.

Mau1wurf1977 wrote:

Cloudschatze wrote:

What, exactly, is the issue though? Are the pots simply dirty/scratchy? A "fader lube" product might save you the effort of replacing things.

On the Roland, I only get full Stereo when turned all the way to the rigth. Wiggling the knob or turning it to the left and the left channel becomes very weak.

The Sound Blaster 1.5 has a similar issue. I only get full Stereo when I push the dial down a certain way.

Is seems like dirt.

How about DeOxit cleaner? I'm sure you can find it, even when you're upside down! 😜

These pots look identical to the one on the SB card:
http://www.alps.com/WebObjects/catalog.woa/E/ … 08H12100F3.html
http://nl.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Keyword=rk08h

You'll need to check if the pinout, dimensions and total resistance match the one you currently have.
Also check the resistance taper specification, you'll want a forward logarithmic taper (commonly referred to as 'audio' taper). I have no idea what they mean by a '15C' taper.

Mau1wurf1977 wrote:

On the Roland, I only get full Stereo when turned all the way to the rigth. Wiggling the knob or turning it to the left and the left channel becomes very weak..

This sounds more like a faulty or broken solder joint. If you (gently) wiggle the potentiometer, is there any movement of the solder joints or pins? Whether observed or not, simply re-soldering the potentiometer might be all this takes to resolve.

Quick update!

I ended up emailing Roland Australia and what a service! Got an answer right away and I could order the part 😀

15 bucks with postage 😀

Wondering what other "vintage" parts they have!

Now I just got to solder it...

Well done!

Don't throw the old one into the bin, it may be salvageable.

Arrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

Sound Blaster 1.5 PIRATE trimpot repair

awesome 🤣
also it's amazing that roland.au did carry the part... great!