VOGONS


Reply 20420 of 21772, by BitWrangler

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On a desktop board speaker would be a 2 pin INPUT to play the PC onboard speaker through the soundcards filter and amp and out through headphone or line out.

Unicorn herding operations are proceeding, but all the totes of hens teeth and barrels of rocking horse poop give them plenty of hiding spots.

Reply 20421 of 21772, by creepingnet

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BitWrangler wrote on 2021-12-04, 13:54:

On a desktop board speaker would be a 2 pin INPUT to play the PC onboard speaker through the soundcards filter and amp and out through headphone or line out.

I know. I've wired up a few crazy things in my time on my vintage PC's to do things like direct all audio through the internal speaker or direct audio through other things. It's a bit of an extention of my guitar building/pedal building capabilities. How I think the speaker pin works is that audio goes to ground (as usual) on the "-" side, and the "+" side goes to the speaker. Almost all audio, for guitars at least, are wired in this way.

Actually making some headway on this this morning from the connector.....not much but I did figure this out using an external speaker...

I started by finding out the grounds of the card using a VOM - I found actually, when the card is inserted into the computer, the card becomes a part of the computer's ground plane, at least the ring around the connector does, and the casing of the PCMCIA card itself (if conductive). Basically, put one connector on the metal bracket on the back outside of the Versa (which goes to the motherboard's main ground/- side), and then put the positive onto the case on the continunity setting and got full continuity from the backplane to the card.

So I setup an alligator clip to the M/75's rear backplane, carefully wired up a test harness to a 4ohm internal speaker I had laying around, and I think I got some audio signal off the pins, but it looks like the card uses a different method. The KMI KXL-C101 has a 34-pin header on the back with the pins all on the bottom of the connector - makes this relatively easy actually.

When I posted on this earlier, someone gave me a link to gut-shots of the card on this forum. I was somewhat able to trace signals from the ES1688S to the pins on the back, the first half of the pins (facing back of card, label up up, left to right) are audio pins based on where they are going, they go through a via, to a series of SMD components, then through another via somewhere, and following a lot of those traces often lead at least toward the ESS chip for the left side of the connector. It looks like (theoretical) Pin 1 goes to ground based on the solder pad it's attached to. Also, when I looked at pin 62 on the I/O header to the PCMCIA bus, there was just a bare pad, no via, no trace, so that pin is not even used.

I know, from building my own audio stuff, and a blurry picture of the breakout box, assuming the breakout box is not doing some of the work...
- There should be roughly about 3-5 audio signals coming off the card - 2 for the left/right output channels (+), one for Line-In/Mic in, or maybe those are separate.
- If the audio is using a separate ground plane, it could be 2 pins per each I/O, one for -, one for +, that makes things a bit harder

Anyway, fired up Versa, booted up Windows 95, opened up "shop.mid" in Media Player....went to town finding signals

Pin 1 = Ground
Pin 2 = unknown - maybe 2nd ground or no sound?
Pin 3 = Sound? - Small tic when connected to - maybe mic/line in?
Pin 4 = Sound? - Small tic when connected to - maybe mic/line in?
pin 5 = Squealing noise - possible + or - audio out?, got louder when touched with speaker + wire
Pin 6 = Squealing noise - possible + or - audio out?, got louder when touched with speaker + wire
pin 7 = Squealing noise - possible + or - audio out?, got louder when touched with speaker + wire
Pin 8 = Squealing noise - possible + or - audio out?, got louder when touched with speaker + wire

Going off of this, it seems one of two things apply.....or both...

1.) The "+" and "-" for the audio signals are all hosted off the card-edge connector on the back, so would need to build my own breakout connector to figure it out
2.) I think I MAY have heard some faint sound coming through the card-edge on some pins on louder sound pins (1/2 signal), which may suggest this
3.) If the sound comes out of the quieter pins, it could be the breakout box uses +5VDC? off the PCMCIA card to drive an amplifier
4.) Worst case scenario, I'm getting raw DIGITAL data and the audio has to hit an AD/DA converter in the breakout box (then it's time to find a box then I guess, or sell the card)

Either way, neat little experiment. I think to figure out what data signals come off the card, if not needing AD/DA would mean I can find that kind of card-edge connector or something I can modify to fit (right pin spacing, I really need a micrometer) and then wire up the first eight wires to it and see if I can pull full audio signals off. either way, I'm just glad I got the card setup and detecting. I really should ad the drivers to the Driver Library that I got.

BTW, to get the card working in DOS wihtout card services, it requires ASPIS365.SYS from Disk 1 of the driver disks with the following entries, I used DEVLOAD in FreeDOS to get that one up...but should work in CONFIG.SYS.

DEVICE=C:\XXXXXXXX\ASPIS365.SYS /PORT=240 /ADLIB /INT=5

If you have EMM386.EXE loaded you also have to (as with most PCMCIA cards) exclude the memory address of the card, in this case CE00-CFFF and /MEM=XXXX to set the memory address. CE00 is the default, but you can also re-assign to a different address using EMM386 and the /MEM= variable when loading the driver.

Anyway, even if It comes to nothing for me, at least this info is out there for someone to pick up where I left off if they feel like.

~The Creeping Network~
My Youtube Channel - https://www.youtube.com/creepingnet
Creepingnet's World - https://creepingnet.neocities.org/

Reply 20422 of 21772, by ODwilly

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Found a Q6700 so started fiddling around with this Abit board Iv been procrastinating on fixing.

Does anybody have any idea where to find a Bios for this Abit IN9 32x Max? It ALMOST works, but it locks up in the bios no matter what CPU, ram, PSU or GPU I use with it. A fresh Bios battery seemed to add about 5 seconds of time spent in the bios before

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crashing.

Next order of business is a deep clean and thermal paste refresh on the chipsets.

Main pc: Asus ROG laptop. I7-6700HQ, GTX 960M 4gb, 16gb DDR4.
Retro PC: Soyo P4S Dragon, 3gb ddr 266, 120gb Maxtor, Geforce Fx 5950 Ultra, SB Live! 5.1

Reply 20423 of 21772, by DeathRabbit679

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Not related to computers really, but I did hook up a new phono pre-amp and re-EQd my AV receiver. Was surprised how much better stuff sounded, so I suspect my old cheapo preamp wasn't doing the RIAA eq very well.

Reply 20424 of 21772, by PC Hoarder Patrol

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ODwilly wrote on 2021-12-04, 21:38:

Found a Q6700 so started fiddling around with this Abit board Iv been procrastinating on fixing.

Does anybody have any idea where to find a Bios for this Abit IN9 32x Max? It ALMOST works, but it locks up in the bios no matter what CPU, ram, PSU or GPU I use with it. A fresh Bios battery seemed to add about 5 seconds of time spent in the bios before IMG_20211121_011107749.jpgcrashing.

Next order of business is a deep clean and thermal paste refresh on the chipsets.

If the always useless abit.ws is anything to go by (http://abit.ws/page/en/motherboard/motherboar … &pPRODINFO=BIOS) it would appear to be these

ftp://91.121.194.115/pub/download/bios/in932x/

Manual here - ftp://91.121.194.115/pub/download/manual/engl … x-max-wi-fi.zip

Reply 20425 of 21772, by ODwilly

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PC Hoarder Patrol wrote on 2021-12-05, 03:30:
If the always useless abit.ws is anything to go by (http://abit.ws/page/en/motherboard/motherboar … &pPRODINFO=BIOS) it would ap […]
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ODwilly wrote on 2021-12-04, 21:38:

Found a Q6700 so started fiddling around with this Abit board Iv been procrastinating on fixing.

Does anybody have any idea where to find a Bios for this Abit IN9 32x Max? It ALMOST works, but it locks up in the bios no matter what CPU, ram, PSU or GPU I use with it. A fresh Bios battery seemed to add about 5 seconds of time spent in the bios before IMG_20211121_011107749.jpgcrashing.

Next order of business is a deep clean and thermal paste refresh on the chipsets.

If the always useless abit.ws is anything to go by (http://abit.ws/page/en/motherboard/motherboar … &pPRODINFO=BIOS) it would appear to be these

ftp://91.121.194.115/pub/download/bios/in932x/

Manual here - ftp://91.121.194.115/pub/download/manual/engl … x-max-wi-fi.zip

Thank you!!! It even adds 45nm CPU support. I guess I will have to swap CPU's with the Q9550 in my spare Inspiron 530 if this board proves stable.

Main pc: Asus ROG laptop. I7-6700HQ, GTX 960M 4gb, 16gb DDR4.
Retro PC: Soyo P4S Dragon, 3gb ddr 266, 120gb Maxtor, Geforce Fx 5950 Ultra, SB Live! 5.1

Reply 20426 of 21772, by BitWrangler

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Yup that's practically a rule, don't let Dells bogart good CPUs.... Ima have to file for permission to stick a PentiumD in a Dementia though 'coz all the better boards I've got will take conroe up, and I might end up with an allendale unemployed.

Unicorn herding operations are proceeding, but all the totes of hens teeth and barrels of rocking horse poop give them plenty of hiding spots.

Reply 20427 of 21772, by Nexxen

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Retrobriting.
I had to give a second round to a couple of front panels and started one that is very yellow and in part orange.

PC#1 Pentium 233 MMX - 98SE
PC#2 PIII-1Ghz - 98SE/W2K

Reply 20428 of 21772, by Turbo ->

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Trying to figure out why this nice 486 motherboard doesn't want to boot. It shows no signs of life. I don't have much experience in troubleshooting a motherboard with PCI/ISA diagnostic card. Does anyone know what do codes C7 (left) and C5 (right) mean?

EDIT: I've added a better picture of the motherboard.

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Reply 20429 of 21772, by TrashPanda

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Turbo -> wrote on 2021-12-05, 11:18:

Trying to figure out why this nice 486 motherboard doesn't want to boot. It shows no signs of life. I don't have much experience in troubleshooting a motherboard with PCI/ISA diagnostic card. Does anyone know what do codes C7 (left) and C5 (right) mean?

Is that board capable of running a Dx4-100 ?>

Also .. it has a Dallas 1287 RTC .. might want to check to see if it is still alive and its battery has not died, 99% of the time with them Dallas RTCs ..the battery is dead which causes a whole lot of issues relating to the BIOS.

Im crazy not stupid, well not stupid enough to make claims that are total nonsense.

Reply 20430 of 21772, by BitWrangler

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I'd be a little shocked to find a PCI 486 board incapable of running a DX4... though I've seen some needing plug in Vregs. This board seems to have a regulator. However, I don't like the look of that capacitor showing to the right of the SIMM slots. (edit: and it's got a buddy that also looks sus by the chipset PGAs)

Codes will vary by BIOS and version, I see AMIBIOS but not version, though maybe this board is late enough to have got that *cough* lovely winbios. Which I think is versioned 6 offhand.

Unicorn herding operations are proceeding, but all the totes of hens teeth and barrels of rocking horse poop give them plenty of hiding spots.

Reply 20431 of 21772, by Turbo ->

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Thanks for the suggestions. I will look into it. Can a motherboard not post at all due to an empty Dallas battery? And another thing: I salvaged this motherboard from an old PC. When I opened the side cover I noticed that there was an ISA IO controller installed into THIS motherboard? Strange..

Reply 20432 of 21772, by BitWrangler

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At one point ISA i/o controllers were dirt cheap new, if you wanted one more port or interface, it was cheaper to stick an ISA i/o in there and disable everything vs buying a card with the single interface or port on.

Unicorn herding operations are proceeding, but all the totes of hens teeth and barrels of rocking horse poop give them plenty of hiding spots.

Reply 20433 of 21772, by fool

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I worked on socket 7 MS-5129 (v1.2) getting it ready for some action. MSI has done some nice forward-thinking. There is place for both PS/2 connector and RTC battery. This one had ODIN in socket.
All I had to do was solder the new battery holder + solder PS/2 connector + drill ODIN battery pins so that pins were solderable. I didn't cut off the old battery, I will if new battery drains too fast. Yes, colour is wrong in that mouse connector, I didn't have options.

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Someone please show Putin how to play Warcraft.

Reply 20434 of 21772, by PD2JK

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I believe some old ASRock boards from the Socket A era, have separate DIN connectors. Maybe you can source one.
Anyway, nice work. 😀

Philips P3238: Siemens 80286-12 / Highscreen AT: Pentium MMX 200@233MHz / Highscreen ATX: Athlon Classic 1 GHz

Reply 20435 of 21772, by Nexxen

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Turbo -> wrote on 2021-12-05, 11:18:

Trying to figure out why this nice 486 motherboard doesn't want to boot. It shows no signs of life. I don't have much experience in troubleshooting a motherboard with PCI/ISA diagnostic card. Does anyone know what do codes C7 (left) and C5 (right) mean?

EDIT: I've added a better picture of the motherboard.

Have you checked if the settings for dx-4 are correct?
I had C7 C6 with a cpu that had the wrong fsb settings.
Maybe the cpu has been oc'd to death and is toast... try 25mhz fsb.

PC#1 Pentium 233 MMX - 98SE
PC#2 PIII-1Ghz - 98SE/W2K

Reply 20436 of 21772, by creepingnet

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Started putting more stuff up on E-bay to clear out my workshop of things I'll never use...including a grab bag of memory, just sold some software, all the memory modules I've pulled from the NEC Versa I have (they all have the RAM maxxed out at 20 or 40MB and I don't see myself ever downgrading them).

I'm wondering if I should go ahead and sell 2 systems I have minus hard disk. Would people be interested in that? If not I'll be putting regular spindle drives, most likely of the period, in them. Not selling here but just looking for community opinions on that.

Thinking if not I might just put a 250MB from the Versa into my Tandy 1000, move the 3GB back to the NEC Ready 9522, then find the smallest ATA-133 drive I have (capacity wise) and slap that in the Dell 3000. I've got a FitPC now that works with XP and that'll be my XP box now, it'll save on some space having a XP unit the size of a pack of cigarettes....unless there's a better way with those, but I'll post about that thing later.

~The Creeping Network~
My Youtube Channel - https://www.youtube.com/creepingnet
Creepingnet's World - https://creepingnet.neocities.org/

Reply 20437 of 21772, by GuillermoXT

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Sooo a little summary of the new event:

after the original 60 watt power supply has passed due to overload,

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and I had doubted to find a replacement because of the special design

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My Retrosystems:
K6-2 400 running Win98SE
P1-133 with Win3.11
Tandon 286-8MHZ Running DOS 5.0 on XT-IDE Card

Reply 20438 of 21772, by GuillermoXT

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(Part II)
I decided to sacrifice another AT power supply that is no longer in use.

It is the power supply that was previously installed in my first retro computer when I bought it in 2017. That was kept for the purpose of ATX conversion (because the GA586-TX3 motherboard could allow both operating modes), which has now proven to be practical.

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Only the base plate with higher threads for the circuit board is left of the cannibalized power supply unit. Of course, it could have been cut out much cleaner and nicer, but when the case is closed you can't see anything but it is important that everything is stable and secure.

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The 60 watt circuit board will be repaired in good time ... also the cold device connections and the extended switch of course not thrown away, as well as the original fan from the replacement power supply.

Since I have had good experiences so far, a brand new Noctua fan (as already happened in the 286) will also do its job in the power supply with new inner workings.

My Retrosystems:
K6-2 400 running Win98SE
P1-133 with Win3.11
Tandon 286-8MHZ Running DOS 5.0 on XT-IDE Card

Reply 20439 of 21772, by Byrd

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janih wrote on 2021-12-02, 08:14:

I bought the panel from a Chinese online store called "abctay.com". Paid 50$ (+shipping, taxes, customs..) so not cheap, but I was unable to find these from European sellers or locally.

It was bit of a gamble to buy from some random shop, but the panel is working and seems to be new old stock. I was searching for the lowest price for LQ71Y03 that I could find. There are also several sellers in AliExpress that also have this panel for sale.

Thanks mate - I've found the website, agree it looks a bit sketchy, but have also picked up the same screen for my Libretto 100CT. My existing panel has the same issue all of them have - vertical line on the far left edge - but with other lines flickering from that edge in use. The same website also have LCD panels for Sony VAIO UX handhelds - AUD $85, I have a panel which is heavily scratched but should probably see if I can remove the thick film on top first before buying a complete replacement.

Next up I want to find some RAM for the 100CT, although the stock 32MB isn't bad. Great machines.