I played Doom on a PC speaker back in the day. It's actually one of the games that does it pretty well.

Make sure to check not only the size and voltage when replacing DC power supplies, but also the polarity of the barrel. Many products from this era have the positive and negative swapped, such as the Roland Sound Canvases.

Continuing with my P4 WinXP rig (oh god wall of text warning)

I had a Sandy Bridge i3 2120 machine for WinXP originally and while it worked great it always somehow felt a little clinical to me, unexciting. I imagine most here know what I mean. I didn't mind as I have pretty functional mindset, as long everything works it's all good.

But then I happened upon a cheap OEM Sound Blaster X-Fi Titanium I was like, hey, I've never tried EAX 3.0 and beyond. I already knew I don't like earlier EAX versions, way too much echo and often sound unnatural to me, but I was curious enough to pick it up and see how the later EAX version fare. And suddenly no longer "everything worked", the motherboard did not like the card at all. Some sort of compatibility issue, lots of noise and weird beeping. Turning off Intel EIST in bios helped, the noise and beeping disappeared when doing nothing but reappeared the moment you did something, even moving the mouse was enough. I ruled out EMI and tried to find other bios settings that could help but no go. So there I was, with a motherboard that had a compatibility issue with a sound card that supported something I still don't know do I really need at all. Can't have that, time to rebuild the whole thing!

I decided to go with Cedar Mill P4. I'm sure some are already chuckling "the guy wanted something more exciting and went with P4 🙄" but it kinda is to me. I've never had a P4, back in the day I had a Athlon XP and P4 seemed like what the rich and privileged had (even though Athlon XP made much more sense price/performance wise), so here we are.

System specs for those interested:

After getting all the parts and dealing with the corrosion surprise under the CMOS battery as previously discussed, all was set and I installed WinXP. No music at the end of installation when the awesome XP installation music should have played. Okay, I thought XP SP3 installation disk had some basic driver for X-fi, but I guess not. No sound card detected, can't install driver. The very reason that made me rebuild the thing was not working. To describe the feeling I had at that point was like I was about to pop a vein, inflate like a balloon and get a sudden court order to pay child support for some random kid whose mother I've never met.

Hood open, reseat the sound card, turn the PC back on. The whole BIOS reseted, all the settings were back to default. Didn't touch the battery or the reset CMOS pins but okay? At least XP now found the sound card and drivers installed just fine, the card works great! So either reseating the card or some BIOS setting that got reseted caused it to not work, haven't pinpointed that yet. One suspect is the "Auto Disable DIMM/PCI Frequency" BIOS setting that's supposed to turn off unused DIMM/PCI slots to reduce EMI, sounds like asking for trouble enabling that.

Everything worked fine and the PC was rock solid, passed Prime95 and HCI MemTest (which I prefer over MemTest86, twice it has found errors on RAM that passed MemTest86) with no issues. Turned off the PC and unplugged it to do something. The BIOS reseted AGAIN on boot. The battery was dead. That battery was perfectly fine, and suddenly it was not after placing it to the battery holder that has a bit of corrosion damage on the leg as previously found. A bit concerning I'd say? The dead battery out and a new one in, everything works again. Even survived unplugging the power cord for the night, no issues.

So either the battery just happened to croak at an amazing time by pure coincidence, or I've got a motherboard that might kill the battery at random times. The seller is some larger company type that gives 1 year's worth of warranty, why do I feel like I'm going to find out that the motherboard is the root cause only after that year has passed 🤣

Fixed the PVM-1341 blue tint issues with the composite and S-video. Had to adjust the color burst control and it has the correct black color this time.

Photo shoot of the internals:

https://imgur.com/a/y8UwJtB

Oh. And I also modded it to allow the RGB line(s) to have audio in support.

Fired up Encarta 95 on my refurbished IBM PC 330 P133 and got lost in a world from 27 years ago last night. I have a dream! One small step for man...! Postage stamp videos ahhh bliss 😀

Attahced Logitech G305 to my PII retro rig. Windows98 found all the drivers. What an experience in early FPS games. I know it's not a retro, but I'm done with crappy PS mouses. Going through LucasArts Outlaws righ now, enjoying the gameplay and music.

Finally recapped my FX5700 which has crashed the system if its drivers were installed. I intended it for my W98Box which also looks to be upgraded with more than just this a bit later today or tomorrow.

For now it seems to be stable and according to 3DMark2001SE it's about a 25% performance improvement over the Ti4200 I used until now.

Whipping up a temporary fight stick out of scrap, to provide a nice way of using my new arcade stick+buttons, which will tide me over until later in the year when another proper cabinet build is planned.

Built and filled (putty) it yesterday, today to sand it flush, drill the holes, and prime it with a couple of coats of Zinsser BIN. Not sure if I'll bother topcoating it, since it's just a quick and temporary job. Good paint is expensive.

Oh and also had to solder a microUSB port back onto an Arduino which it had snapped off. These particular units had the port merely held onto the board with a couple of solder dots, in addition to the electrical contacts themselves. Rather than thru-hole posts as is the more robust norm. That was a slight pain, the port's pinout is tiny, so I had to trace back and solder onto the next available points. All worked good. That'll be the Daemonbite adapter, the control board for the fight stick.

RandomStranger wrote on 2022-05-07, 16:40:

Finally recapped my FX5700 which has crashed the system if its drivers were installed. I intended it for my W98Box which also looks to be upgraded with more than just this a bit later today or tomorrow.

For now it seems to be stable and according to 3DMark2001SE it's about a 25% performance improvement over the Ti4200 I used until now.

3DMark2001_3.PNG

Set up my upgraded Win98 box, using the W98 version of the same driver (66.93).
Interesting thing is, that in DirectX it shits itself, in OpenGL I experience no issues.

3DMark 2000 and 2001SE default benchmarks are seizure inducing.
Colin McRae Rally 2.0 runs well in 640×480@16 everything else maxed out, if the resolution is changed it also falls apart.
Quake III Arena (CD version) has no issues, the timedemos give me around 155-160fps in 1280×1024

MSI KM3M-V (note: the W9x network drivers on the manufacturers page doesn't work)
Athlon XP 2800+
2×256MB RAM
ASUS FX5700

Dx8.1 installed from the GTA III install disc.

I'm done with it for today, I'll continue troubleshooting tomorrow. If anyone has some idea, please make my life easier.

RandomStranger wrote on 2022-05-07, 22:49:

Set up my upgraded Win98 box, using the W98 version of the same driver (66.93).
Interesting thing is, that in DirectX it shits itself, in OpenGL I experience no issues.

See here for my analysis of NVIDIA drivers in Windows 98:

NVIDIA GeForce FX driver testing on an Intel 440EX summary and report

Wow, thanks. Looks like I chose one of the first crap drivers.

EDIT:

With version 56.64 everything seems to be fine.

Shreddoc wrote on 2022-05-07, 22:09:

Whipping up a temporary fight stick out of scrap, to provide a nice way of using my new arcade stick+buttons, which will tide me over until later in the year when another proper cabinet build is planned.

Built and filled (putty) it yesterday, today to sand it flush, drill the holes, and prime it with a couple of coats of Zinsser BIN. Not sure if I'll bother topcoating it, since it's just a quick and temporary job. Good paint is expensive.

Oh and also had to solder a microUSB port back onto an Arduino which it had snapped off. These particular units had the port merely held onto the board with a couple of solder dots, in addition to the electrical contacts themselves. Rather than thru-hole posts as is the more robust norm. That was a slight pain, the port's pinout is tiny, so I had to trace back and solder onto the next available points. All worked good. That'll be the Daemonbite adapter, the control board for the fight stick.

All done. Works good. Finish a bit rough, but that's what you get for being crap at painting, plus, "it's just a temp job" 🤣

Still better than almost any fight stick you can buy.

A beautiful Seimitsu LS-32 with a mesh balltop, premium Crown 202 main buttons*, and Sanwa OBSN oranges, powered by a class-leading (in lag) DIY Daemonbite adapter built on a cheap Arduino.

*pillowy clouds of heaven

Shreddoc wrote on 2022-05-09, 05:29:

All done. Works good. Finish a bit rough, but that's what you get for being crap at painting, plus, "it's just a temp job" lol […]
Show full quote

Shreddoc wrote on 2022-05-07, 22:09:

Whipping up a temporary fight stick out of scrap, to provide a nice way of using my new arcade stick+buttons, which will tide me over until later in the year when another proper cabinet build is planned.

Built and filled (putty) it yesterday, today to sand it flush, drill the holes, and prime it with a couple of coats of Zinsser BIN. Not sure if I'll bother topcoating it, since it's just a quick and temporary job. Good paint is expensive.

Oh and also had to solder a microUSB port back onto an Arduino which it had snapped off. These particular units had the port merely held onto the board with a couple of solder dots, in addition to the electrical contacts themselves. Rather than thru-hole posts as is the more robust norm. That was a slight pain, the port's pinout is tiny, so I had to trace back and solder onto the next available points. All worked good. That'll be the Daemonbite adapter, the control board for the fight stick.

All done. Works good. Finish a bit rough, but that's what you get for being crap at painting, plus, "it's just a temp job" 🤣

Still better than almost any fight stick you can buy.

1.JPG

2.JPG

Id be happy to use that, looks like a great way to use up some parts while honing the tech fuckery skills !

Been able to get a brand new battery for this granny

Zenith Data Systems 620N

Actually simple, 4 cells to replace, same size as LR20 batteries inside. Only 2 connectors, very basic.

It works !

Cost, 14$

Finished rebuilding the whole retro-room/computing area for the most part. 3x laptop chargers - 2x universal - in the center console armwrest (the other is for my NEC Versa), setup the 486 Desktop on the desk next to the iMac 24" since I'm trying out Mac and DOS for some daily stuff (ThinkPad is taking over Linux duties). magnavox TV is back in with /NES, ATari 2600, and the FitPC Slim which now has The Sims installed and working on it - with plans to add more games. Thinking of getting a VCR so I can have a source to capture the RF off the Atari with.

Surfin' the net for retro stuff. Found out this Voodoo 2.

It says it's the 12 MB version but on the rear the aren't the memory chips. Is it possible?
Also can't find the brand, can be the 3dfx reference board?

mrfusion92 wrote on 2022-05-09, 06:13:

Surfin' the net for retro stuff. Found out this Voodoo 2.

It says it's the 12 MB version but on the rear the aren't the memory chips. Is it possible?
Also can't find the brand, can be the 3dfx reference board?

It's a Powercolor Evilking with 1 MB chips...

mrfusion92 wrote on 2022-05-09, 06:13:

Surfin' the net for retro stuff. Found out this Voodoo 2.

It says it's the 12 MB version but on the rear the aren't the memory chips. Is it possible?
Also can't find the brand, can be the 3dfx reference board?

It looks like the STB reference design that 3DFX used after they bought them out, they revised the design so that with the front pads populated it'll have 12mb, the new design never used the rear pads.

Shreddoc wrote on 2022-05-09, 05:29:

All done. Works good. Finish a bit rough, but that's what you get for being crap at painting, plus, "it's just a temp job" lol […]
Show full quote

Shreddoc wrote on 2022-05-07, 22:09:

Whipping up a temporary fight stick out of scrap, to provide a nice way of using my new arcade stick+buttons, which will tide me over until later in the year when another proper cabinet build is planned.

Built and filled (putty) it yesterday, today to sand it flush, drill the holes, and prime it with a couple of coats of Zinsser BIN. Not sure if I'll bother topcoating it, since it's just a quick and temporary job. Good paint is expensive.

Oh and also had to solder a microUSB port back onto an Arduino which it had snapped off. These particular units had the port merely held onto the board with a couple of solder dots, in addition to the electrical contacts themselves. Rather than thru-hole posts as is the more robust norm. That was a slight pain, the port's pinout is tiny, so I had to trace back and solder onto the next available points. All worked good. That'll be the Daemonbite adapter, the control board for the fight stick.

All done. Works good. Finish a bit rough, but that's what you get for being crap at painting, plus, "it's just a temp job" 🤣

Still better than almost any fight stick you can buy.

1.JPG

2.JPG

A beautiful Seimitsu LS-32 with a mesh balltop, premium Crown 202 main buttons*, and Sanwa OBSN oranges, powered by a class-leading (in lag) DIY Daemonbite adapter built on a cheap Arduino.

*pillowy clouds of heaven

That paint job looks pretty good to me I'd happily use that controller. Excellent choices on the stick and buttons that thing must be a dream to play on. But seriously you did a fantastic job building it temporary housing or not

Just received my slot 1 Pentium iii 500 MHz CPU. Installed in my 440bx chaintech 6bta3 motherboard. Troubleshooted issues. Used old spare powerman with enough amps on 3.3v rail to run voodoo3 also used double sided ram and replaced battery. Debating whether to put it into antec 300 case or a black Lian li case

TrashPanda wrote on 2022-05-09, 05:32:

Shreddoc wrote on 2022-05-09, 05:29:

All done. Works good. Finish a bit rough, but that's what you get for being crap at painting, plus, "it's just a temp job" lol […]
Show full quote

Shreddoc wrote on 2022-05-07, 22:09:

Whipping up a temporary fight stick out of scrap, to provide a nice way of using my new arcade stick+buttons, which will tide me over until later in the year when another proper cabinet build is planned.

Built and filled (putty) it yesterday, today to sand it flush, drill the holes, and prime it with a couple of coats of Zinsser BIN. Not sure if I'll bother topcoating it, since it's just a quick and temporary job. Good paint is expensive.

Oh and also had to solder a microUSB port back onto an Arduino which it had snapped off. These particular units had the port merely held onto the board with a couple of solder dots, in addition to the electrical contacts themselves. Rather than thru-hole posts as is the more robust norm. That was a slight pain, the port's pinout is tiny, so I had to trace back and solder onto the next available points. All worked good. That'll be the Daemonbite adapter, the control board for the fight stick.

All done. Works good. Finish a bit rough, but that's what you get for being crap at painting, plus, "it's just a temp job" 🤣

Still better than almost any fight stick you can buy.

1.JPG

2.JPG

Id be happy to use that, looks like a great way to use up some parts while honing the tech fuckery skills !

Cheers mate, yeah I can think of plenty worse ways to spend a weekend! 😀

chrismeyer6 wrote on 2022-05-09, 12:17:

Shreddoc wrote on 2022-05-09, 05:29:

All done. Works good. Finish a bit rough, but that's what you get for being crap at painting, plus, "it's just a temp job" lol […]
Show full quote

Shreddoc wrote on 2022-05-07, 22:09:

Whipping up a temporary fight stick out of scrap, to provide a nice way of using my new arcade stick+buttons, which will tide me over until later in the year when another proper cabinet build is planned.

Built and filled (putty) it yesterday, today to sand it flush, drill the holes, and prime it with a couple of coats of Zinsser BIN. Not sure if I'll bother topcoating it, since it's just a quick and temporary job. Good paint is expensive.

Oh and also had to solder a microUSB port back onto an Arduino which it had snapped off. These particular units had the port merely held onto the board with a couple of solder dots, in addition to the electrical contacts themselves. Rather than thru-hole posts as is the more robust norm. That was a slight pain, the port's pinout is tiny, so I had to trace back and solder onto the next available points. All worked good. That'll be the Daemonbite adapter, the control board for the fight stick.

All done. Works good. Finish a bit rough, but that's what you get for being crap at painting, plus, "it's just a temp job" 🤣

Still better than almost any fight stick you can buy.

1.JPG

2.JPG

A beautiful Seimitsu LS-32 with a mesh balltop, premium Crown 202 main buttons*, and Sanwa OBSN oranges, powered by a class-leading (in lag) DIY Daemonbite adapter built on a cheap Arduino.

*pillowy clouds of heaven

That paint job looks pretty good to me I'd happily use that controller. Excellent choices on the stick and buttons that thing must be a dream to play on. But seriously you did a fantastic job building it temporary housing or not

Thanks man! I'm really happy too tbh.

It is ridiculously nice to play on. I used the Japanese Sega/Astro City 1P button layout, but put a larger gap between buttons and joystick which, based on some pre-testing, gives the most natural posture and ergonomics for me. The deck has a 7 degree incline, which research suggested is optimal. The feel of the LS-32 stick + it's square gate is amazing and classic, such a good all-rounder stick. Coming from octo-gated Sanwa JLFs and Suzo-Happ buttons (in my DIY cab), I really appreciate the differences. This is next level. I do have a mod actuator and stiffer spring to try out with the JLFs next time I feel like a minor project, so it will be interesting to see how they compare.

There's even something for Apple fans (in addition to the whiteness, I mean). 😉 The USB cable is (was) an old iPod one.

Oh, and shoutout to arcade retailer Focus Attack for going above and beyond to help me.