Today i have been testing out My Radeon 850XT PE AGP on my Xeon X3220 machine. This is on Win98, going to install XP in the next couple of days and see how it performs there.

3D Mark 2000

3D Mark 2001SE

appiah4 wrote on 2020-05-04, 09:29:

I modded one of my GOTEK units with the Flash-Floppy firmware, a 128x32 OLED screen and a piezo buzzer. This will be installed […]
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I modded one of my GOTEK units with the Flash-Floppy firmware, a 128x32 OLED screen and a piezo buzzer. This will be installed in my IBM PS/1 DX2-66 as part of its restoration..

What will the buzzer accomplish?

Jed118 wrote on 2020-05-04, 16:22:

What will the buzzer accomplish?

It emulates the sounds of a real floppy drive.

Jed118 wrote on 2020-05-04, 16:22:

appiah4 wrote on 2020-05-04, 09:29:

I modded one of my GOTEK units with the Flash-Floppy firmware, a 128x32 OLED screen and a piezo buzzer. This will be installed […]
Show full quote

I modded one of my GOTEK units with the Flash-Floppy firmware, a 128x32 OLED screen and a piezo buzzer. This will be installed in my IBM PS/1 DX2-66 as part of its restoration..

What will the buzzer accomplish?

Emulates floppy head seek, read and write sounds.

Going through some old hardware, fixing some machines and scrapping others. Also testing that Dell Dimension 2200 I got and installing Windows 2000, as it came with a wiped hard drive.

Stripped down an old Mac, case has tons of rust but the board and most parts still look very good. Took the battery out years ago when last fired up so no corrosion. Was a Quadra 840AV with a NuBus PAS16. Last time fired up was in 2012 and worked fine. Any one want the boards ? If I cannot find another case will gladly give them away to aanyone who want to rebuild "the fastest Quadra and the fastest 68k Macintosh of all time" according to Wiki

Horun wrote on 2020-05-05, 01:16:

Stripped down an old Mac, case has tons of rust but the board and most parts still look very good. Took the battery out years ago when last fired up so no corrosion. Was a Quadra 840AV with a NuBus PAS16. Last time fired up was in 2012 and worked fine. Any one want the boards ? If I cannot find another case will gladly give them away to aanyone who want to rebuild "the fastest Quadra and the fastest 68k Macintosh of all time" according to Wiki

I would only if no one else was interested. I'm kind of still trying to clear space and I'm not sure I need to start another project. Those plastic cases - yikes. Disassembled an 8500 and pretty much everything broke.

A 68k Mac is on my list, however (other than the forlorn original LC).

I have two 840AVs, both require heavy restoration and one is missing its CPU. 🙁

@Horun: The 840AV is one of the most valuable retail Macs (not counting the special/limited editions). A working mainboard easily sells for 100 bucks or more. Keep that in mind before giving it away and then finding it on ebay the next day.

Today the retro computing activity I have mostly been doing is editing a short video for YouTube to see if the iomega Clik! PCMCIA card and 5 disks worked or not and if so, was there any data on them?

Here's the video if you want to take a look:

https://youtu.be/xeOh_AEq0Cw

My Abit VP6 just got 2 x 40gb Maxtor Diamondmax 7200rpm ATA133 disks on its RAID ports. With 1 x 1ghz pentium 3 installed and 2gb ram I have prepared a specially patched windows 98se install disc to allow it to run on 2gb ram.
Purpose of this is to see how well this pc's raid 1 hardware feature can cope with windows 98se.
I am aware there are drivers for the controller in windows but I will see how that goes after install (i will assume windows will run compatibility mode until i do).
When I am over it I shall install windows 2000 with 2x 1ghz pentium III CPU's (these are brand new processors) to play games and install Microsoft virtual PC to see the virtual support of windows 98se and if it uses both processors to emulate 1 virtual processor.
I realize the IDE ports on this motherboard only run at ATA100 but data speed is only marginally affected as its the burst rate which is noticeable in these IDE improvements and its like comparing sata II with SATA III only a lil better.
Primarily I built this machine to run windows 2000 anyhow but until my socket 478 pentium 4 system is finished, I want specifically for windows 98SE (waiting for stuff is a pain) its config playtime in the lounge room and its cool the tv HDMI plugs into it via a DVI to HDMI adapter (china post is useful) oh and my Yamaha ymf724 chip xwave sound card i got recently gets its built in goodness playing my favourite midi tunes and probably test some dos games out too.
I tried to run 16gb CF cards but the cheap chinese CF to IDE controllers cannot give real support to them for booting so i shall leave them alone till I can get SATA to CF adapters that have built in logic (to boot a raid 1 SATA II with text mode support WIN2K or XP32)

*** I so do not IDE cables ***

I may edit this post later to include photos of windows from within windows 98se with retrozilla web browser 😁
Thanks for reading 😀

Replaced the rattling ball bearing fan on an FSP 300W PSU with a brushless Xigmatek fan, and it's a very silent unit now. I will be using it in my Socket A Duron1300/Voodoo3 Win98/DOS build.

zapbuzz wrote on 2020-05-05, 21:07:

I may edit this post later to include photos of windows from within windows 98se with retrozilla web browser 😁
Thanks for reading 😀

Please don't edit, then I will never notice it .. 🤣

Searching for more parts for my Commodore64 replica project. Checking parts list and so on. Besides chips, I nearly have all the components. Missing aprox half of the caps as of now. Missing the choke coil and a few other things. Else I have a complete Commodore64 Model-C Revision 250466 replica/kit-computer. Can't wait to begin soldering. The case will be black, the led will be yellow and the keyboard will be a classic breadbin keyboard and not the white one. In the end, it will look like this below....

Today I installed and used Windows 3.1 for the first time, on my 386 (I made a thread about whether it would run a while back). It's surprisingly... good, for what it is. I couldn't really understand the appeal of it but having tried it, it sort of makes sense.

When is something 'retro'? I'll define that as when you can't get a supported modern OS to run on it anymore. That means my Core2Quad Q8200 is retro as of now. My brother was complaining about his PC being awfully slow. That was a complete trainwreck - first off an old Core Duo T2300 with 2GB RAM then an ancient old 160GB OS drive showing SMART errors. But the clincher was the fans. They were all so clogged with a mix of cigarette tar, dust and cat hair that two out of four didn't turn at all, and one of the remaining two was so clogged it didn't do much. So that poor little CPU was overheating and thermally throttling. Cleaned it up a bit, but decided he needed some newer hardware and I had perfectly usable stuff surplus to requirement.

So dragged the system back home, thoroughly cleaned it (filthy :r ), replaced the old T2300 and interesting So479 motherboard with a Gigabyte GA-G31M-S2L. It may be 12 years old, but with aforementioned Core2Quad and 4GB of RAM it should be more than capable of handling the occasional word processing and frequent Facebook trolling that my brother gets up to. Then inserted a trusty old Intel 120GB SSD, stuck in a freshly-made official Windows 10 boot USB and... no boot. Turns out UEFI support is compulsory now for the USB media. Shit. Then set about migrating the existing Windows 7 install to the SSD. Pain in the rear-end, but managed that. So tried to upgrade (still possible from Windows 7 to 10). After a lot of mess, complete fail - the infamous 0xc1900101-0x30017 error. Something went wrong before boot. After ruling out various other software things, what's left sounds like BIOS issues (possible lack of UEFI, GPT or secure boot) again. Yep, a C2Q system is now too old to be allowed to run Windows 10, so despite multiple cores and RAM support still outclassing low-end new stuff, it's officially retro in the nastiest way 🙁

Not quite giving up yet, most of the problems seem related to the 1803 build which gave me hell on my modern systems too. It seems possible to upgrade to Windows 10 without the updates if you disconnect the network at the right point in the process (after activation check, before updates). So reduced to repeatedly starting the process and pulling UTP out at various stages. Not my idea of a relaxing evening...

You still have the iso of the windows 10 install? I can switch between GPT/UEFI or CSM/legacy with a click in rufus usb creator utility. This what I do at work due to not enough usb sticks.

Cheers,

dionb wrote on 2020-05-05, 22:43:

When is something 'retro'? I'll define that as when you can't get a supported modern OS to run on it anymore. That means my Core2Quad Q8200 is retro as of now. My brother was complaining about his PC being awfully slow. That was a complete trainwreck - first off an old Core Duo T2300 with 2GB RAM then an ancient old 160GB OS drive showing SMART errors. But the clincher was the fans. They were all so clogged with a mix of cigarette tar, dust and cat hair that two out of four didn't turn at all, and one of the remaining two was so clogged it didn't do much. So that poor little CPU was overheating and thermally throttling. Cleaned it up a bit, but decided he needed some newer hardware and I had perfectly usable stuff surplus to requirement.

So dragged the system back home, thoroughly cleaned it (filthy :r ), replaced the old T2300 and interesting So479 motherboard with a Gigabyte GA-G31M-S2L. It may be 12 years old, but with aforementioned Core2Quad and 4GB of RAM it should be more than capable of handling the occasional word processing and frequent Facebook trolling that my brother gets up to. Then inserted a trusty old Intel 120GB SSD, stuck in a freshly-made official Windows 10 boot USB and... no boot. Turns out UEFI support is compulsory now for the USB media. Shit. Then set about migrating the existing Windows 7 install to the SSD. Pain in the rear-end, but managed that. So tried to upgrade (still possible from Windows 7 to 10). After a lot of mess, complete fail - the infamous 0xc1900101-0x30017 error. Something went wrong before boot. After ruling out various other software things, what's left sounds like BIOS issues (possible lack of UEFI, GPT or secure boot) again. Yep, a C2Q system is now too old to be allowed to run Windows 10, so despite multiple cores and RAM support still outclassing low-end new stuff, it's officially retro in the nastiest way 🙁

Not quite giving up yet, most of the problems seem related to the 1803 build which gave me hell on my modern systems too. It seems possible to upgrade to Windows 10 without the updates if you disconnect the network at the right point in the process (after activation check, before updates). So reduced to repeatedly starting the process and pulling UTP out at various stages. Not my idea of a relaxing evening...

I just created a Build 1909 Windows 10 installation USB flash drive using the Media Creation Tool that I just downloaded from Microsoft on my non-UEFI x58 based system (Supermicro X8SAX with x5675) and it booted just fine from USB (tried both 32-bot and 64-bit version) . UEFI support is definitely NOT compulsory for Windows 10 USB installation media . I also have an XW4600 Core 2 Quad (Q9400S) machine (obviously non UEFI) which I wiped and fresh installed Windows 10 x64 on through USB install media about 4 months ago (whatever build was current then) without any issues .

derSammler wrote on 2020-05-05, 06:52:

I have two 840AVs, both require heavy restoration and one is missing its CPU. 🙁

@Horun: The 840AV is one of the most valuable retail Macs (not counting the special/limited editions). A working mainboard easily sells for 100 bucks or more. Keep that in mind before giving it away and then finding it on ebay the next day.

Thanks, I do not plan on giving it away unless it will not fit in the other case (from a 8100, looks same) or one I stumble on for very cheap. Also the PSU is shot. Cat piss ! Yes I should have wrapped it in plastic or put in a box instead of just sitting on the garage floor. Guess I can take one from a 7300/7500 and rewire it......

My cap replacement order (for a PSU) was canceled, they ran out of stock. So went to Digikey and ordered from them. So am replacing the crappy Fuhjyyu TM with Nichicon brand but different part numbers than oredered before. Getting these: UPA1C222MHD3TO and UPA1C332MHD. Not as low ESR as wanted but still good low impedence and good Amps/ripple. The PSU needs 2- 2200 and 4-3300 so ordered double that 😁
Any comments or advice on if I should have ordered a different bunch please let me know.

Creating a spreadsheet to keep track of my CPUs!

appiah4 wrote on 2020-05-04, 18:29:

Emulates floppy head seek, read and write sounds.

Please put up a sound or video of this!

On another note, spent several hours trying to get an INNODISK 44 pin Embedded Disk working in an Armada 1750 as well as though adapters (carefully observing PIN 1 and VCC) nothing - no dice, it actually kills whatever's on the IDE channel. 🙁 (as in, disables it completely until the Innodisk is removed)

CF to IDE is going to be the next experiment, I'm trying to revive an LTE ELITE 4/75CX, which ALSO has a broken band in the floppy, but I have some experience with that as I re-banded my 4/25 LTE.