Use brasso, while you are at it, polish the surface to death until it is shiny, clean it with lighter fluid then rinse with water. Never fails, smells pretty good too.
no a simpler approach is
http://www.overclockersclub.com/guides/lapping/
you want to lap your heatsink and if the cpu has an IHS lap that also 🤣
Whilst that might be a valid solution, explain to me how purchasing a load of stuff you probably won't use otherwise is simpler. I'd post the bullshit image again, but the detector is broken from an overload and it won't be working again until Monday.
wrote:Whilst that might be a valid solution, explain to me how purchasing a load of stuff you probably won't use otherwise is simpler. I'd post the bullshit image again, but the detector is broken from an overload and it won't be working again until Monday.
because it actully helps instead of introducing chemicals that will add further grooves as well as polish wish also acts as an insulator
No, instead we've just spent more money on crap we don't need, potentially left conductive copper dust all over the place and possibly made the surface uneven.
What kind of shitty heatsink are you using that the polish eats into so disastrously? Furthermore, what is wrong with washing away said polish as I said earlier?
I dunno, they're probably about the same on the risk factors to be honest, especially if you're altering a system that has already been installed.
wrote:No, instead we've just spent more money on crap we don't need, potentially left conductive copper dust all over the place and possibly made the surface uneven.
What kind of shitty heatsink are you using that the polish eats into so disastrously? Furthermore, what is wrong with washing away said polish as I said earlier?
I dunno, they're probably about the same on the risk factors to be honest, especially if you're altering a system that has already been installed.
no for anyone that knows what they are doing, there is no risk with lapping, and no heatsink is 100% smooth its impossible, the machining process will leave the surface with the ability to improve it significantly. As for washing away the polish, polish doesn't wash away, and burning it isn't 100% either, no gurantee you now have all of it off the surface of the heatsink. As for an already installed system, this is what seperates the boys from the techs and enthusiants, if your afraid to take apart your computer because its installed, you might as well buy OEM and let the big boys play.
As long as you rinse it propely it's ok.
After using a bit of white spirit to completely remove thermal paste with paper towels I always finsh the job with some isopropyl alcohol until it's completely dry and the cpu is ready to go.
Then you could apply some fresh thermal paste without fearing an "insulator effect" or a bad reaction with the TP or the HS.
Ps: "there is no risk with lapping" I would not be so sure, if you remove too much material from the cpu cooler or its ihs that will have the exact opposite result of what it's supposed to do...
I wish that chart had copper anti-seize on it.
wrote:You also want a thermal paste that is easy to remove/clean... I never tested/trusted cheap thermal paste because of some socket […]
You also want a thermal paste that is easy to remove/clean...
I never tested/trusted cheap thermal paste because of some socket A/370 cpu coolers from computers/MB's I bought years ago...
That was a complete pain in the ass to remove their cpu cooler and to clean the cpu (even after running the pc to warm the HS a tiny piece of an AMD Duron cpu die stayed on the HS while separating the two 🤣 ).
The culprit was the thermal paste (yellow or orange ones) that has completely dried and became hard as f*** and that won't even come easily or at all with White spirit or acetone alone 😵
This has definitely been a problem for me with mPGA478 boards. Those chips are constantly getting pulled out of the socket when I pull heatsinks. Generally, twisting the heatsink would help to break the bond more safely, but that can be constrained by the mounting bracket.
wrote:I wish that chart had copper anti-seize on it.
wrote:You also want a thermal paste that is easy to remove/clean... I never tested/trusted cheap thermal paste because of some socket […]
You also want a thermal paste that is easy to remove/clean...
I never tested/trusted cheap thermal paste because of some socket A/370 cpu coolers from computers/MB's I bought years ago...
That was a complete pain in the ass to remove their cpu cooler and to clean the cpu (even after running the pc to warm the HS a tiny piece of an AMD Duron cpu die stayed on the HS while separating the two 🤣 ).
The culprit was the thermal paste (yellow or orange ones) that has completely dried and became hard as f*** and that won't even come easily or at all with White spirit or acetone alone 😵This has definitely been a problem for me with mPGA478 boards. Those chips are constantly getting pulled out of the socket when I pull heatsinks. Generally, twisting the heatsink would help to break the bond more safely, but that can be constrained by the mounting bracket.
after you have the bottom of the laptop off power it on, start prime 95, run it for 5 minutes then unplug and pull the battery, the heatsink should lift freely.
wrote:I wish that chart had copper anti-seize on it.
wrote:You also want a thermal paste that is easy to remove/clean... I never tested/trusted cheap thermal paste because of some socket […]
You also want a thermal paste that is easy to remove/clean...
I never tested/trusted cheap thermal paste because of some socket A/370 cpu coolers from computers/MB's I bought years ago...
That was a complete pain in the ass to remove their cpu cooler and to clean the cpu (even after running the pc to warm the HS a tiny piece of an AMD Duron cpu die stayed on the HS while separating the two 🤣 ).
The culprit was the thermal paste (yellow or orange ones) that has completely dried and became hard as f*** and that won't even come easily or at all with White spirit or acetone alone 😵This has definitely been a problem for me with mPGA478 boards. Those chips are constantly getting pulled out of the socket when I pull heatsinks. Generally, twisting the heatsink would help to break the bond more safely, but that can be constrained by the mounting bracket.
Every Socket 478 (desktop) system I disassembled, the CPU came out WITH the heatsink. This was a problem with the thermal pads used in those systems.
Solution to this was to put the heatsink with the "glued" CPU in the oven on 60-80°C for a few minutes. The CPU came off without a problem after that.
Funny, my P4 Northwood CPU has never gotten stuck to the Thermaltake cooler when I remove it for cleaning, and the Radio Shack paste I use never gets dry/hard/powdery and is easy to clean, even after many years (my Pentium 166MMX is mute witness to that). I have seen some Socket A coolers with a gel-like paste that became very hard though; scraping it off was the only way to completely remove it 😵
Ooohh, the pain......
wrote:wrote:No, instead we've just spent more money on crap we don't need, potentially left conductive copper dust all over the place and possibly made the surface uneven.
What kind of shitty heatsink are you using that the polish eats into so disastrously? Furthermore, what is wrong with washing away said polish as I said earlier?
I dunno, they're probably about the same on the risk factors to be honest, especially if you're altering a system that has already been installed.
no for anyone that knows what they are doing, there is no risk with lapping, and no heatsink is 100% smooth its impossible, the machining process will leave the surface with the ability to improve it significantly. As for washing away the polish, polish doesn't wash away, and burning it isn't 100% either, no gurantee you now have all of it off the surface of the heatsink. As for an already installed system, this is what seperates the boys from the techs and enthusiants, if your afraid to take apart your computer because its installed, you might as well buy OEM and let the big boys play.
I second this. I do a lot of metal polishing as I make knives for a hobby and often I lap both cpu's and heatsinks. I seen as much as a 15c drop in temps from lapping both.
Altho most of the time it's around 7~8c. that is if you do both the cpu and heatsink. Some heatsinks and cpus drop more then other. My heatkiller cpu 3 only dropped 2c after lapping it were as most stock cpu heatsinks will drop around 5c
EDIT:
lapping is not for everyone. it can increase your temps by a ton, but if you take you time and know what you're doing it is worthwhile. but to remove TIM, I think that is kind of odd. rubbing alcohol does a good job.
@ Dingo - is any special equipment needed for lapping - at least to do a good job of it?
wrote:@ Dingo - is any special equipment needed for lapping - at least to do a good job of it?
a flat surface, time, water, sandpaper, and canned air
Looks like this is the way to go. Should last forever too =)
$16.99
That's a lot of thermal paste
wrote:@ Dingo - is any special equipment needed for lapping - at least to do a good job of it?
If I may, basically you just need sandpaper of various grits, a flat surface, and elbow grease.
Let the air flow!
wrote:wrote:I actually read a review where such exotic thermal interfaces as bubble gum, tooth paste and condoms were included among AS5 and mates.
There are some lists of thermal compounds around internet that are infamous for listing butter, chocolate, oil, mayonnaise and others. There was even an extended list that listed some bodily fluids 🤣....
Nice to see that... mustard is better than a commercial product 😁 😁 😁
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I've got all the major TIM's that have been released in the past 15 years. And I mean ton's of it. For my clients, I just tend to use good old arctic silver ceramique (as I still have about 20+ 60g tubes left over from my dry ice cooling days). When it comes to my personal performance rigs, I will lapp or pop off the heat spreader (after checking test spreads to see if its gonna be worth the effort) then dip into my liquid metal TIM's and toss on a water cooler. If its gonna be run on a heatsink instead of liquid for whatever reason, I use IC7 diamond. For my more modest rigs and that would include retro rigs as well, I stick with plain jane MX-2 as I still have a few 60+g tubes of that. On all of them I always use Arctic clean as IPA can leave oils behind. Its a very minor thing for most CPU's, but it was important to deal with when I was doing extreme cooling and the habit just stuck with me ever since.
wrote:@ Dingo - is any special equipment needed for lapping - at least to do a good job of it?
A flat surface, distilled water and sandpaper.
