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Dead board?

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First post, by Brickpad

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Pulled out my Chicony CH-486 33/50 L board today to give it a test run. Unfortunately it no longer POSTs. I've tried pulling, reseating, and rearranging the RAM (4MB; Micron 1Mx9 Fast Page). I've swapped out three CPUs (Intel i486SX 25MHz, 33MHz, and DX 50MHz). Nothing. I've added and removed the cache memory, checked the jumper settings, pulled and reseated the video card (Trident TVGA9000B) and moved it to different slots. Still nothing. There's not a single chirp from the PC speaker, except a random single beep immediately after powering on, which only happened twice. I've pulled everything out - RAM, CPU, and video card and still not a sound from the PC speaker. I swapped those out as well just in case. I've also added and removed and external battery. Still no luck

At this point I don't know what else to do. It was working just fine when I stored it away in an anti-static bag in a box just a month ago, so I don't know what could have possibly happened in-between then? I'd hate to scrap this as these 50MHz FSB boards are hard to find. Any other possible ideas?

This is the board here:
ChiconyCH486_3350L_zpsaq8bn2mk.jpg

Reply 2 of 12, by Brickpad

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Swapped out motherboards and tried the video card and memory in another and it worked fine. For the life of me I cannot think of what could have possible killed the board. It worked fine after I powered it down, and put it away in the anti-static bag. Everything was hooked up properly before I powered it back on today. There aren't any blow tantalum capacitors, or any magic smoke. I am totally baffled by it.

Reply 3 of 12, by shamino

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Since it did beep a couple of times, it sounds like it's running at least intermittently to some degree but it's too unstable to get very far in the POST process. If you have a POST card it might show some progression of codes which would confirm the CPU is running the BIOS ROM, but I'm not sure the point at which it freezes would really tell much about how to fix it.
If you have a multimeter try checking voltages as it's trying to run. Looks like the clock crystal is socketed so if you have a compatible one, try swapping it. I've read that they're fragile.

Reply 4 of 12, by Brickpad

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shamino wrote:

Since it did beep a couple of times, it sounds like it's running at least intermittently to some degree but it's too unstable to get very far in the POST process. If you have a POST card it might show some progression of codes which would confirm the CPU is running the BIOS ROM, but I'm not sure the point at which it freezes would really tell much about how to fix it.
If you have a multimeter try checking voltages as it's trying to run. Looks like the clock crystal is socketed so if you have a compatible one, try swapping it. I've read that they're fragile.

I tried swapping the crystal out with a 25MHz part, still nothing. Now I'm also not sure if the two PC speakers I was using actually work either. I've plugged them into a working board, and neither one emits any audible sound (memory count tick). So now I'm wondering if it giving off an error code.

[EDIT]

Ok, there is a very faint, single beep when I immediately power the board up. I have to hold the speaker up very close to my ear, but I can hear it. There sounds like there might be more beeping after that.

Reply 5 of 12, by candle_86

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sounds crazy, but you have nothing left to lose.

Wash it in a dishwasher and let it air dry for at least 3 days outside in the sun. I've fixed quite a few boards that wont post this way.

Reply 6 of 12, by xboingx

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If you are unsure about the speaker try changing the polarization (swap + and -) of the speaker, I sometimes noticed that the speaker emits very quiet sound when connected in reverse. If you think that the speaker does not work you can actually use almost everything as the speaker. For a very long time I used a small speaker removed from my kids broken firetruck with cables wrapped around proper pins. Worked like a charm 😀

Reply 7 of 12, by Frasco

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1- Check voltage regulators for holes (had recently two 486 boards without delivering 3.3v for my DX4 100MHz). It was providing 1.2v instead.

2- Take out the BIOS carefully (you don't want to bend those legs. There are tools for this to work perfectly. So i will take no responsibility if something goes wrong)

Check it for dirt or rust. Reinstall it in the socket following the indications on both Bios and Motherboard.

It really appears your board wanna live, but let me tell you something about those two boards i mentioned...
One of them would only POST if i applied some pressure in the chipset (holding steady). In your case, those are the OPTI chips. Try it cause it worked for me. (at this point, my energy was empty and i ended cannibalizing it). So sad. 😵

The other board only beeps a message about "RAM problem" if i push the reset button. I am close! Shame i am up to no good.

Reply 8 of 12, by Brickpad

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Frasco wrote:
1- Check voltage regulators for holes (had recently two 486 boards without delivering 3.3v for my DX4 100MHz). It was providing […]
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1- Check voltage regulators for holes (had recently two 486 boards without delivering 3.3v for my DX4 100MHz). It was providing 1.2v instead.

2- Take out the BIOS carefully (you don't want to bend those legs. There are tools for this to work perfectly. So i will take no responsibility if something goes wrong)

Check it for dirt or rust. Reinstall it in the socket following the indications on both Bios and Motherboard.

It really appears your board wanna live, but let me tell you something about those two boards i mentioned...
One of them would only POST if i applied some pressure in the chipset (holding steady). In your case, those are the OPTI chips. Try it cause it worked for me. (at this point, my energy was empty and i ended cannibalizing it). So sad. 😵

The other board only beeps a message about "RAM problem" if i push the reset button. I am close! Shame i am up to no good.

I tried a couple of your suggestions over the weekend.I pulled the BIOS and checked the legs for any possible corrosion or rust, but they were clean, and re-seated the chip. Still no luck. I tried applying pressure to the chipset. Nothing.

I used a couple of PC speakers I had laying around, and when powered on there is a very faint buzzing noise emitting from either speaker, almost as if there is some sort of electrical interference.

On top of all this my Abit AX4 will not recognize any keyboard. It is supplying power, but it just halts with a keyboard error. Great...potentially TWO dead boards. 😠

Reply 9 of 12, by DNSDies

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Is that BIOS chip an EPROM?
Depending on the age, it might be suffering from bit-rot. It's a sad fact with those UV-Erasable EPROMS that they can lose information after 25+ years.
If you can find a binary file for the BIOS, I'd have someone with an EPROM eraser/writer send you a new chip with a fresh bios in it.

Reply 10 of 12, by kixs

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I used a couple of PC speakers I had laying around, and when powered on there is a very faint buzzing noise emitting from either speaker, almost as if there is some sort of electrical interference.

On top of all this my Abit AX4 will not recognize any keyboard. It is supplying power, but it just halts with a keyboard error. Great...potentially TWO dead boards. 😠

- I had a board with weird speaker sounds. I think I dumped it in the end.

- Abit AX4... check the traces near the keyboard connector where the battery leaked. One (maybe more) is probably broken. Find the one and repair it. Board will work fine.

Requests are also possible... /msg kixs

Reply 11 of 12, by Brickpad

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DNSDies wrote:

Is that BIOS chip an EPROM?
Depending on the age, it might be suffering from bit-rot. It's a sad fact with those UV-Erasable EPROMS that they can lose information after 25+ years.
If you can find a binary file for the BIOS, I'd have someone with an EPROM eraser/writer send you a new chip with a fresh bios in it.

That might be worth a shot. I've got a BIOS I pulled from a FIC 486-VH-C board. I'll swap it out for S&Gs. What else have I got to lose at this point.

kixs wrote:

- Abit AX4... check the traces near the keyboard connector where the battery leaked. One (maybe more) is probably broken. Find the one and repair it. Board will work fine.

I take it you must have had one of these before? Because that is precisely what I think has happened. There is corrosion on two or three of the hair-thin traces. I suppose I can bridge those with a little bit of solder?

Thanks for all the help!

Reply 12 of 12, by nforce4max

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If all else fails wash the board and once it is dried give it a try, I have revived some boards that were basically outdoors salvage after being left in the weather by their previous owners. I even got weather exposed drives that surprisingly are still good and are fully functional 😲

On a far away planet reading your posts in the year 10,191.