Only reason anything should corrode is because you ether used hard water or mixed metals.
Keep in mind most cheaper rads are not made of copper, but brass.some fittings are not made of the metals the manufacturing states there made off too. For instance cheaper fitting may be made of a chrome plated metal thats more like pop metal. That would be ok, but the inside part of the fitting is often not chrome plated.

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And if you use a glycol mixture without knowing what material your tubing is made of you risk leaks just as well. A common tubing material is PETG which is chemically attacked by glycol. So cut our the blanket advice to use glycol, unless you know exactly what the tubing is made of.

Jade falcons advice is safer on that front.

I am pretty sure the existing mixture is glycol but I don't know the ratio, or if there is anything else in it besides that and distilled water.

I just found the exact same tubing I believe at Performance PCs that Jade recommended. Bought that and happened to find some really nice SocketA/754/939 heatsinks for 2.99 each on Clarence so bought the last 4.

I've removed as many components as I can without undoing the existing tubing. It's pouring down rain right now where I live but soon as things clear up I think I'm going to drain it outside just so I don't make a mess inside. Basically, my goal is to get all the individual pieces as pristine as possible and rebuild it.

I knew the name "Rhuwyn" seemed familiar. At first I thought it was from a game I play but apparently it's from vogons 😜

I just paid to have the case and water cooling parts shipped to me. I'd like to do an extreme KT133A build based on the Iwill KK266-R that I already own as long as the cost is within reason. If not, I'll just throw my KT600 Athlon XP build in it.

The water cooling loop is what I'm after. Being a professionally built system should mean it's all good and just needs a flushing and a refill of the recommended coolant, Koolance LIQ-702 or LIQ-705. (and hoses ofc)

Koltoroc wrote:

And if you use a glycol mixture without knowing what material your tubing is made of you risk leaks just as well. A common tubing material is PETG which is chemically attacked by glycol. So cut our the blanket advice to use glycol, unless you know exactly what the tubing is made of.

Jade falcons advice is safer on that front.

I completely forgot about that. Yeah that used to be a really big problem.
Anyway I used a premix glycol (hydo x) mix in a loop for about 3 weeks recently. In that 3 week is clogged up the Rez and pump. Also did not forget that glycol is toxic. And if your going to use it make sure you parts can handle it and use as little as possible. Like 5to100, just enough to keep stuff from growing. And you don't need it if your mixing metals. That's what base/ph neutralizers are for and glycol/water mix doesn't completely stop galvanic corrosion but it sure does help a lot.

As for cleaning the blocks/rad if there not platted.
You can use citrus acid or clr. Fill the rad with ether and swash it around then run distill water through it.

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No the glycol was separating from the water and turing into a thick gello like mass in the Rez. It a very common problem with more restrictive setups.

You can run different metals safely. With the right additives your be fine. I had a system with a aluminum rad and capper blocks for years without any problems.
My family as serval race cars with brass rads, cast iron blocks and aluminum heads and never had any problems there. And we run straight distill with a little oil and anti corrosion additive.
I don't recommend mixing metal all, but it can be done safely.

Gatewayuser200 wrote:

I knew the name "Rhuwyn" seemed familiar. At first I thought it was from a game I play but apparently it's from vogons :P I jus […]
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I knew the name "Rhuwyn" seemed familiar. At first I thought it was from a game I play but apparently it's from vogons 😜

I just paid to have the case and water cooling parts shipped to me. I'd like to do an extreme KT133A build based on the Iwill KK266-R that I already own as long as the cost is within reason. If not, I'll just throw my KT600 Athlon XP build in it.

The water cooling loop is what I'm after. Being a professionally built system should mean it's all good and just needs a flushing and a refill of the recommended coolant, Koolance LIQ-702 or LIQ-705. (and hoses ofc)

haha yeah the retro gaming world is really small it seems. I decided the watercooling wasn't worth the headache. I prefer my builds to be streamline and lightweight with as little bloat as possible, but at the same time I really didn't want the system to go to waste so I am sending it to Gatewayuser2000 for the cost of shipping so it actually gets used.

IBM used distilled water in their liquid cooling back in the mainframe days, I hope that OP doesn't scrap that system. Rather see it traded or sold to someone who wants a period correct system like this.

nforce4max wrote:

IBM used distilled water in their liquid cooling back in the mainframe days, I hope that OP doesn't scrap that system. Rather see it traded or sold to someone who wants a period correct system like this.

Rhuwyn wrote:

... I am sending it to Gatewayuser2000 for the cost of shipping so it actually gets used.

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kithylin wrote:

Gatewayuser200 wrote:

nforce4max wrote:

IBM used distilled water in their liquid cooling back in the mainframe days, I hope that OP doesn't scrap that system. Rather see it traded or sold to someone who wants a period correct system like this.

Rhuwyn wrote:

... I am sending it to Gatewayuser2000 for the cost of shipping so it actually gets used.

So you're going to resurrect the water system after all? Yay.. don't see very many retro water systems anymore. I would water cool more of my retro stuff if I could find the blocks to mate with older stuff.

As long as all or most of the water cooling parts are good I definitely will. I do not want it to become a money pit like one of my projects did. ($400USD in parts and hours and hours of labor on a vintage riding mower from the 70's, and it still needs a new motor. fml)

So what ever happened to this? Did you get the old school water cooling system working again?

I too would like to know.