VOGONS


First post, by Pabloz

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and so.. my beloved super socket 7 motherboard has started to break
one of the tabs that is used to keep the heatsink secured has broken (white paint on photo)

now my concern is if a 462 cooler with 3 holes will work or not with that tab broken completely

or....the other idea is to buy some sort or arctic silver epoxy or arctic silver thermal adhesive AlUMINA.... but i dont know if it is ok to use that on a CPU.... I dont want to ruin my k6-iii cpu

🙁

Screenshot_2017-09-13-18-52-24.jpg

Reply 2 of 14, by Mister Xiado

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Perhaps fashion a new tab using black Loctite, and wax paper to keep it off of the board while it cures? On the other hand, that could cause more problems if it's formed too low on the processor mount.

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Reply 4 of 14, by Tetrium

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One of those z-shaped (whatever they are called) wire clips will also work. These will also work for s3, but you'd need to have these available already.
The heatsinks with 3 mounting holes should also work.

I agree with not using a too big/heavy heatsink (s7/ss7 doesn't really need the beefy sA HSFs anyway) and depending on which CPU you use, adjust the effective height of the mounting clip. I broke such a tab when mounting a Cyrix MII and underestimated the problem, even though I was fully aware of the Tualatin IHS issues by then.

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Reply 5 of 14, by Pabloz

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Tetrium wrote:

One of those z-shaped (whatever they are called) wire clips will also work. These will also work for s3, but you'd need to have these available already.
The heatsinks with 3 mounting holes should also work.

I agree with not using a too big/heavy heatsink (s7/ss7 doesn't really need the beefy sA HSFs anyway) and depending on which CPU you use, adjust the effective height of the mounting clip. I broke such a tab when mounting a Cyrix MII and underestimated the problem, even though I was fully aware of the Tualatin IHS issues by then.

you mean something like this? but i would have to change the heatsink with something a little bit better that has a fan

hea.jpg

Reply 6 of 14, by Tetrium

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Pabloz wrote:
you mean something like this? but i would have to change the heatsink with something a little bit better that has a fan […]
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Tetrium wrote:

One of those z-shaped (whatever they are called) wire clips will also work. These will also work for s3, but you'd need to have these available already.
The heatsinks with 3 mounting holes should also work.

I agree with not using a too big/heavy heatsink (s7/ss7 doesn't really need the beefy sA HSFs anyway) and depending on which CPU you use, adjust the effective height of the mounting clip. I broke such a tab when mounting a Cyrix MII and underestimated the problem, even though I was fully aware of the Tualatin IHS issues by then.

you mean something like this? but i would have to change the heatsink with something a little bit better that has a fan

hea.jpg

Yup, that's exactly what I meant ^^

There may be a gripe with these wire thingies: If the base of the heatsink is too thick, the wire will bend more and putting more stress and becoming a bit harder to keep installed (as to err..spring loose). I was mostly just adding another option to pick from 😀

Btw, that black heatsink in the pic should be enough for basically any Socket 7 CPU once a fan is installed 😀

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Reply 11 of 14, by Tetrium

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Pabloz wrote:

hey good idea this zclip thing will work perfectly

but i dont know about that heatsink and a fan, AMD K6-III - 450 MHz maybe its too much for that short aluminum

K6-III (non-plus) may be something like 30W...maybe that is overstretching the cooling of the pictures black heatsink a bit.
But the thing is that one can use that z-shaped wire clip on any heatsink (which does not automatically make it a good fit, mind you 😜).
It works best with heatsinks that have a relatively thin base.

If one prefers to use a bit bigger HSF, then probably using a sA HSF with 3 mounting holes is the better way to go?

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Reply 12 of 14, by shamino

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Transferring the Z clip might be fine (I've never tried it), but I agree that heatsink isn't going to cut it. I have the same CPU and I had chronic heat issues with a heatsink that was bigger than that. A fan powerful enough to make it work would need to be powered directly from the PSU, and if it quits, bye bye CPU.

I would use the clip from a socket-A heatsink. You'll need to bend it to be a lot looser than it is originally. Err on the loose side, don't let it be super tight. When it comes to socket 7 and 370, breaking those retaining tabs is a bigger danger than overheating.

Somewhere there was a thread where somebody showed that they could disassemble the socket and pull it off the board, leaving the pins still soldered in, and then assemble a new plastic socket in it's place around the same pins. It has to be glued to the PCB. I've never tried it.

Reply 13 of 14, by TOBOR

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shamino wrote:

Transferring the Z clip might be fine (I've never tried it), but I agree that heatsink isn't going to cut it. I have the same CPU and I had chronic heat issues with a heatsink that was bigger than that. A fan powerful enough to make it work would need to be powered directly from the PSU, and if it quits, bye bye CPU.

I would use the clip from a socket-A heatsink. You'll need to bend it to be a lot looser than it is originally. Err on the loose side, don't let it be super tight. When it comes to socket 7 and 370, breaking those retaining tabs is a bigger danger than overheating.

Somewhere there was a thread where somebody showed that they could disassemble the socket and pull it off the board, leaving the pins still soldered in, and then assemble a new plastic socket in it's place around the same pins. It has to be glued to the PCB. I've never tried it.

My original suggestion to OP was yes, a three point connector at both ends of the desired heatsink would be the preferable solution. But if a short term method was being sought after then the majority of our suggested improvised method could possibly work, especially if the board was kept in a horizontal position during operation and was given frequent attention as to the heatsink/fan operation such as to prevent overheating and or loosening of the improvised retention method. The actual best and easiest method would be to replace the motherboard thus forgoing a very intricate and potentially nerve racking socket replacement. But alas, some people just can not see the forest through the trees.😜

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Reply 14 of 14, by Pabloz

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just a quick update, i think it will be fine now, saved it from death.

yesterday i found a heatsink with the z-clip
and a heatsink from a socket 7 cpu

So i took this heatsink, removed the clip inside
disipador-de-calor-con-ventilador-para-cpu-para-socket-370.jpg

then removed the z-clip from this heatsink, and inserted it into the other heatsink
hea.jpg

and it worked! nice and secured. just need to watch the temps to see if that will be ok.

NOTE: THE 462 COOLER WITH THE TAB WITH 3 HOLES IS A "NO GO"
THE REASON IS BECAUSE SINCE THE REMAINING CLIP IS ON ONE OF THE SIDES, THE METAL FROM THE CLIP is not alligned, one side goes down and the other goes up, and can easly chop off the last remaining clip

HEATSINK.jpg