so its a 3 pin switch, I think some motherboards have a 3 pin header with 5v G and turbo signal (IN)

But I can't see how the display connects to turbo button, can you take a picture from the front?

The original cable must be spliced in some way that the IN and G connects to the turbo button and runs to the motherboard TB SW header

so When pressing the button it sends signal to the led display to switch and also sends signal to motherboard to close circuit on TB SW

Here is a picture of the front

Each 2x3 cell of headers (with two pins missing) corresponds to one of the elements of the 7 segment display. The jumper switch is used to connect above, to the right, or below the center pin. Those positions correspond to the segment being lit with turbo on, turbo off, or both.

You're going to have to test and determine which orientation is for each state, which bank corresponds to which digit, and the segment order (usually the outer segments, clockwise, starting at the top followed by the middle).

if I was to take a guess I would say shorting "-" and "IN" should change the led state and if so that would also be spliced into a second cable that goes to the motherboard TB SW header

Then im guessing "+" which is 5v would be spliced from the molex 5v pin and "-" would be ground, the TB SW would be sharing the same ground "-" with the 5v power connection

I never seen this type of led in action so its my operation theory

I could not get my Turbo switch to work also as I do not have the instructions for the setting up the LED indicator.
So I was able to figure out the basic LED functions and set the numerals up.

As for the "Turbo" switch I used this method.
https://youtu.be/YjGWj8d_gMk?t=353

Toggle switch
https://www.ebay.com/itm/5X-Toggle-SWITCH-ON- … 8f508:rk:4:pf:0

Cables
https://www.ebay.com/itm/5Pcs-PC-computer-mot … 9kFJ:rk:31:pf:0

treeman wrote:

if I was to take a guess I would say shorting "-" and "IN" should change the led state and if so that would also be spliced into a second cable that goes to the motherboard TB SW header

Then im guessing "+" which is 5v would be spliced from the molex 5v pin and "-" would be ground, the TB SW would be sharing the same ground "-" with the 5v power connection

I never seen this type of led in action so its my operation theory

I have try this method but it doesn't work.
Probably, This two digit display work only with a specific motherboard.

If someone have a 2 or 3 digit to sell, I'm interested.

I would connect the "-" and "+" to a 5v fan header on your motherboard.
An then fool around with the jumpers until you get the desired LED numbers.

If you read the original post he has no issue with the power or the led display setup

I don't think many. 386 486 era motherboards have fan connectors on the motherboard, the way the led displays are wired from the factory is usually a cable direct to the psu with 5v or spliced off the molex

"I can connect the 5V but I have no connector for the turbo switch ????"

Yes, the 2 digit work but as there is no connector for switching 66 to 33Mhz.

There are 3 pin on the 2digit board and I have five wire to connect (2 for the 5v and 3 for the turbo button).

Yeah, That's what I have on the back of my LED.
But I could not get Turbo to work.
And I could not get the LED to switch numbers from 133 to 33.

I have 2 pins that read "Ground and 5v"
And I have 3 pins that read "L,C,H" but I don't know what that means ? These go to the turbo switch but my turbo pin on the motherboard are only 2-pins.

When L+C is jumpered = Low
C+H = High
This 3 pins go direct to the turbo button which has 3 pins in 2 rows

1 row goes from LCH the other row goes to the motherboard, if you have 2 pins connect the first 2 from the 3

Intel486dx33 wrote:

Yeah, That's what I have on the back of my LED. But I could not get Turbo to work. And I could not get the LED to switch numbers […]
Show full quote

Yeah, That's what I have on the back of my LED.
But I could not get Turbo to work.
And I could not get the LED to switch numbers from 133 to 33.

I have 2 pins that read "Ground and 5v"
And I have 3 pins that read "L,C,H" but I don't know what that means ? These go to the turbo switch but my turbo pin on the motherboard are only 2-pins.

It s the difference with my display board. I have 3 pin for 5v / ground / in. I don t have LCH and I can connect the turbo switch

treeman wrote:

When L+C is jumpered = Low C+H = High This 3 pins go direct to the turbo button which has 3 pins in 2 rows […]
Show full quote

When L+C is jumpered = Low
C+H = High
This 3 pins go direct to the turbo button which has 3 pins in 2 rows

1 row goes from LCH the other row goes to the motherboard, if you have 2 pins connect the first 2 from the 3

Yes, I only have 2-pins on the motherboard turbo connector. So it's either open or closed to enable turbo.
So you are saying "L and C" is all I need to enable turbo mode ?

oldgames79 wrote:

Intel486dx33 wrote:

Yeah, That's what I have on the back of my LED. But I could not get Turbo to work. And I could not get the LED to switch numbers […]
Show full quote

Yeah, That's what I have on the back of my LED.
But I could not get Turbo to work.
And I could not get the LED to switch numbers from 133 to 33.

I have 2 pins that read "Ground and 5v"
And I have 3 pins that read "L,C,H" but I don't know what that means ? These go to the turbo switch but my turbo pin on the motherboard are only 2-pins.

It s the difference with my display board. I have 3 pin for 5v / ground / in. I don t have LCH and I can connect the turbo switch

You can set your LED to read "Hi" or "L0" or "33" or "66". I would just use a power switch cable to enable turbo mode.

the turbo button has 2 rows of 3 pins each row is independent of each other.

The function is when you. press the button on each row either pin 1 +2 or 2+3 is selected

for the led. display you have 3 pins so either c+l or c+h is selected using the button

if you plug the middle button pin and the top or bottom pin to your motherboard TB SW one of the combinations will close the circuit on the TB SW header enabling/disabling the turbo when your press the button

so 1 cable from turbo goes to led display (3pins)
second cable goes from turbo button to TB SW on motherboard (2pins) one of them has to be middle pin from turbo switch

The reasoning behind the 3-pin connection is that the button should be able to service different types of motherboards - they can rely on open as well as closed jumpers to enable turbo. The original 2x3 way button looks like this but only 2x2 pins/cables are actually used in any configuration:
http://www.suntekpc.com/htm-2/power-switch-pu … urbo-3p3c-2.htm

this is why I had my theory for bridging the "IN" and "-" for the original post just the 2 pins.

Maybye this type of led is designed for a special button/motherboard combo.

3 pins connect to the button then 3 pins go to the motherboard, there is motherboards that have a 5v header on 3 pins.

I will quote this post which I started while ago
Fried my turbo button

tpowell.ca wrote: […]
Show full quote

tpowell.ca wrote:

What I discovered is that the motherboard, in my case a MS-4144 has 3 turbo pins, 1 ground, 1 for turbo-disabling and 1 at 5v in that order. (GND disblTURBO 5volt)
The switch however has a different order of pins, where the common pin comes first, then NO and lastly NC. (COMMON NO NC)
NC = normally closed, NO = normally open

The only other way to switch states on the ORIGINAL post led would be to send some current to the IN pin which notifies led to change from LOW to HIGH or other way around but I don't know how high

treeman wrote:

this is why I had my theory for bridging the "IN" and "-" for the original post just the 2 pins.
Maybye this type of led is designed for a special button/motherboard combo.

The chip on the backside also suggests that this is not the common simple type.

its a funny position to have 5v in the middle, perhaps this type of 3 pin switch works like this:
default mode "-" and "+" connected = power to led LOW state
"-" and "+" and "IN" bridged = power to led HIGH STATE

there can only be 3 logical inputs to "IN"

1. close circuit with "-"
2. supply 5v to change state (risk of burnout)
3. supply unknown low voltage current to change state

but having 5v going through the power button will melt the button, so the motherboard would have to send the 5v direct to the led and cut it when button pressed.