It's a SOYO. Check out TH99 for the exact model.

BastlerMike: Thank you very much! Had no idea there was something like TH99. I believe I found it - http://www.arvutimuuseum.ee/th99/m/S-T/32009.htm. Thank you again!

Get rid of that barrel battery ASAP 😀

Murugan: May I ask why?

A picture is worth a 1000 words

have a look at a leaking battery I had to remove last week and fix the damage

Notice the green acid corrosion it destroys everything it touches

The traces under the battery after I removed it, I tinned them with solder where they were corroded and used jump wires on the ones I wasn't satisfied with

Do yeah remove the battery before it leaks, its 20+ years old of original

Treeman: I understand that perfectly. But as I stated in my initial post, the battery was already leaked and I managed to remove it and clean up the damage. I also purchased and soldered a brand new one. The one in the picture is the new one. Therefore I still think that I'm alright for few upcoming years, or am I not?

I would have gone for the external battery options.
Safer than a barrel battery IMHO

I use a supercapacitor, they hold the charge pretty well (it needs to be quite large though, like 1-4F) and are made of carbon, so they'll never leak.

I have read some advice here http://pc-restorer.com/replacing-cmos-batteries-in-old-pcs/ on the matter before I even desoldered the old battery. The were some options, but I never found enough data on it to be OK with doing it. E.g. the coin cell battery, there was a potential problem with voltage. Lithium batteries can't be recharged and at that time, I had no manual and did not know where the external battery pins are. That would probably go relatively well, still I did not find that kind of battery for sell and I have no skill in constructing one. Guys, I'm forty years old with Multiple Sclerosis. Just to solder this stupid barrel battery took me almost an hour and I was shaking all over the place. So you have to understand that I can't perform any big manufacturing actions 😁 If I don't have a step by step manual on how to do things, I usually back up. The supercapacitor idea sound swell, but I have no idea what it needs to be done.

Edman wrote:

Treeman: I understand that perfectly. But as I stated in my initial post, the battery was already leaked and I managed to remove it and clean up the damage. I also purchased and soldered a brand new one. The one in the picture is the new one. Therefore I still think that I'm alright for few upcoming years, or am I not?

I missed that, if its a new one yeah should be good for a few years, as long as its decent quality?

I made extension cables on my 386 board that I use so the new barrel is outside the case where it can't damage anything, a good few years until it leaks but I don't have to stress and keep opening the case to check

also if you don't trust your AT psu get a atx - > at converter and use a new psu also will sleep batter at night

Treeman: Thank you. This is very cool what you did with the battery 😁 It didn't come to me but seems quite easy, I may still rework mine to something like this (or perhaps next round in a year or two since I don't know the quality of that new battery - just to be on a safe side). About the PSU - I was watching Phils Computer Lab on the subject, but I still don't know how to connect that adapter to the existing four prong switch on the front panel and I would very much like to do that.

Its quiet easy to connect the switch from the at->atx adapter

the AT power switch has 4 prongs, the atx converter has only 2 prongs which need to be crossed together to turn the system on. You have to connect the 2 prongs from the ATX converter to your AT power button in such a way they get shorted when you press the button, there is only a few combinations so doesn't take long to figure it out.

There is nothing you can break, if you get it wrong it just won't turn on, if you get it right the system will power on

Thanks again big time. I see. Well I'm going to order that -5V adapter right now. I was afraid of that 2 to 4 prong thing especially since the main circuit breaker on the house already saved me once from much bigger disaster 😁 and I didn't want to risk it again.

you will only really need the -5V adapter for a handful of ISA sound cards, I got 2 systems running on atx - >at adapters a 386 ISA and a 486 ISA/PCI both systems run ISA sound cards without the need for a -5V adapter, but I do have 1 vibra 16 ISA card that would not run because it needs -5V which is rare, what sound card are you going to use?

Also the only worry with the 4 prongs is if you connect them wrong on a old AT psu then you can blow it up, atx power supply are made safe

Throughout the years I've managed to collect number of cards. Usually thrown away stuff, but I also bough few things. I've got SB16, AWE32, 64Gold (I'm going to sell that one, It's insanely expensive, never had one and therefore have no connection to it now) and several other low-end ISA cards of different makes (not Creative). I'm probably going to use SB16 for the sound I remember (and the driver/software support) or the AWE32 for that is the card I used to have later on (same reasons). The 486 I'm trying to recreate had some cheap PINE (I believe) with OPL2, bad card, had faulty MIDI all the time (back then I was so happy I had it). Well, the point is, I may want to use it with something that accidentally requires those -5V in the future, so I would like to have that secured.

I ordered 3 pieces of that adapter, for I know now what to do with it 😁 I also have a Socket 7 board from the transition AT/ATX era that checks for -5V and complains about it, if it's not present, on the POST screen, this will solve that (hopefully).

Since you seem to know about lot of stuff, I would like to ask a hypothetical question. This is really just a question. If I were to freshen up an old AT PSU, is there something else in it except caps that needs to be replaced?

I understand totally, some people install bigger heatsink just in case they overclock in future and others want the -5v 😀

Sorry I can't give a good answer on the psu question, I read a few threads with alot of discussion of reliability for the age 20+ years of AT psu and I decided to put ATX power supplies in both my 386 and 486 systems as I was not able to find a answer how to 100% make a AT psu safe, that's my own decision ofcourse

No worries, I'm going the ATX route too. I don't feel skilled enough to poke around in the PSU anyway. So I would not dare to touch those insides. I can replace a fan, but that's it 😁 I was just wondering what else can get violently old except caps, which I know can leak, get swollen or seize to work without any bad signs. I guess at that age, anything can become a problem.