VOGONS


First post, by Storm82

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Hi there,

I have a nice Soundblaster Pro 2 CT1600 which is missing the Bracket sadly 🙁

Does anyone know where I can get a replacement?

Reply 2 of 14, by .legaCy

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Murugan wrote:

Same here...Maybe some has 3d printed it?

3d printing? i guess it would be easier to CNC mill a blank.

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Reply 4 of 14, by keenmaster486

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You could just get one of these and drill some holes in it:

http://www.bracket.com/products/brackets/blank-search.html

I flermmed the plootash just like you asked.
World's foremost 486 enjoyer.

Reply 6 of 14, by .legaCy

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keenmaster486 wrote:

You could just get one of these and drill some holes in it:

http://www.bracket.com/products/brackets/blank-search.html

that's what i meant, on a CNC the holes and the cutout for the joystick port would fit perfectly on the card.

Useful links
[ How to Multiboot any OS | Rebuilding GOG Installer for Win9x | 486DX-4 Build | S7 Time machine Build |
twitch stream (in portuguese)

Reply 7 of 14, by Ozzuneoj

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I've been trying to think of a way to make brackets for cards since I have several very rare cards that need them. Preferably, in a way that doesn't involve having to buy a full fledged CNC machine.

My wife has a die-cutting machine for crafty-things that may be useful, but I haven't yet figured out how to make something that is rigid enough to do the job but soft\thin enough to be cut with such a device.

I've said it several times but I really think the users here need to pool our resources to make a standardized way to measure the holes and spacing for ports on brackets. It'd make it so much easier to either find replacements or to fabricate new ones. How about a huge catalogue of photos\scans of brackets that are detailed enough to actually act as templates?

Now for some blitting from the back buffer.

Reply 8 of 14, by doaks80

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Who takes brackets off cards? I can sortof understand losing a motherboard backplate...but a PCI bracket? And what's with all the russian sellers selling things like voodoos and diamond s540s without brackets....were they used in some kind of arcade machine or something?

k6-3+ 400 / s3 virge DX+voodoo1 / awe32(32mb)
via c3 866 / s3 savage4+voodoo2 sli / audigy1+awe64(8mb)
athlon xp 3200+ / voodoo5 5500 / diamond mx300
pentium4 3400 / geforce fx5950U / audigy2 ZS
core2duo E8500 / radeon HD5850 / x-fi titanium

Reply 9 of 14, by keropi

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I would guess it's recyclers that remove the bracket first , easy way to gather metal to sell or something

🎵 🎧 PCMIDI MPU , Orpheus , Action Rewind , Megacard and MK8330 soundcard website

Reply 10 of 14, by Ozzuneoj

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keropi wrote:

I would guess it's recyclers that remove the bracket first , easy way to gather metal to sell or something

Close. Gold scrappers remove metal parts to increase the per pound value of their scrap. Same with heatsinks.

This is very common these days because so many people are getting into gold and precious metal salvage without knowing that they're destroying hundreds of thousands of dollars worth of computer equipment for a tiny nugget that's worth a fraction of the value of the stuff they scrapped to get it.

Now for some blitting from the back buffer.

Reply 11 of 14, by Murugan

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.legaCy wrote:
keenmaster486 wrote:

You could just get one of these and drill some holes in it:

http://www.bracket.com/products/brackets/blank-search.html

that's what i meant, on a CNC the holes and the cutout for the joystick port would fit perfectly on the card.

Except not everyone has a CNC machine...

My retro collection: too much...

Reply 12 of 14, by Thermalwrong

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Hey folks - here's the 3d printable model of my CT1600 bracket, it should also fit the CT1350, CT1330 and CT1740 I think 😀

Tested this in a couple of cases - the bit around the Joystick/MIDI port is recessed slightly because the port sticks out far enough on mine, to make it impossible to install the card in an ISA slot otherwise. It's 1.4mm thick mostly and the thin part is 0.9mm thick.

Creative-CT1600-partial3dscan-700s0 v5.png
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Fair use/fair dealing exception
20191009_002922.jpeg
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Printing it in the orientation shown, with supports on the build plate, at .2mm layer height seems to give me the best results. Going with a smaller layer height might give more detail to the line-in and speaker indicators, but my printer struggled with bridging the gaps (the blue bits) when I did that? So YMMV.
The screw hole at the top is an m3 type screw, but it should fit 6/32 UNC as well.

2019-10-09 23_46_12-PrusaSlicer-2.1.0+win64-201909160915 based on Slic3r.png
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2019-10-09 23_46_12-PrusaSlicer-2.1.0+win64-201909160915 based on Slic3r.png
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Reply 14 of 14, by Horun

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I wish all my brackets were gold 😁 Yeah is too bad Creative lowered the game port on the gold edition or else you could just drill out the two ports on a regular AWE 64 bracket...

Hate posting a reply and then have to edit it because it made no sense 😁 First computer was an IBM 3270 workstation with CGA monitor.