Yep. this is a very early full ATX board. It shows its age by having AT power connectors as well as ATX (DO NOT use both at the same time!) and a single row of external ports as opposed to two in later models. You'll have some fun finding a matching backplate...

Other fun: the Dallas DS128(8)7 RTC will almost certainly have a flat battery and need replacing or modding with an external battery. If it's socketed, it's easy, if it's soldered, enjoy 😉

My tip is to do the Dallas RTC module modding without removing the RTC unless it's socketed. There are plenty of guides out there if you Google "Dallas RTC battery mod" or similar.

I usually burn away the resin using a soldering iron (the smell is wonderful) until I get access to the leads going from the bent RTC battery pins to the battery in the resin ontop. Mounting a CR2032 holder ontop of the Dallas package using hotglue works well or use longer leads and mount the battery somewhere else.

hey 😀 they seller says it has a backplate 😀 hopefully its the correct one

the dallas is socketed so ill look into mods i guess the clock resets when power lost ?

If you use an ATX power supply I think it's likely the board will keep the settings until you disconnect the system from the mains.

But with a socketed RTC the mod is really easy so there is no reason not to do it. Just protect the pins on the RTC so they dont get too bent while doing the modding, they like to snap of.

Socketed? You're lucky. You can do the mod (I tend to do it with a Dremel, same idea as above though) or just replace. If you go for the latter, be aware that most sellers on eBay sell old chips which will be just as dead. Choose a reputable local supplier of new stuff instead (reichelt.de has good stuff).

As for impact, best-case you lose clock & any BIOS settings. Worst case it might not boot.

well the mod looks not to bad so ill have a go 😀 i plan to use an ennermax pro 82+ epr385awt psu with it should that be ok ? its modern but not super modern>?

Even modern PSUs as long as you can remove the 4 extra pins on the 24pin connector to make it a 20pin should work.

The Pentium Pro board only needs about 60W - 100W depending on addon cards and overclock so a weak 5V rail isn't a huge issue.

its got 110w on the 5v -20a rail and removeable block for 20p mode

Did this board come from the Great Pentium Pro Haul here on vogons?

it might well be the guy i brought it off is based in Burlington, Vermont from the ebay listing and pointed me to this site 😀 ill read up on the haul now

Those boards with AT and ATX psu can have the power supply changed directly? or it has some jumper that need to be set ? like i have a spare atx psu that i use for testing but the board were on a AT case,with an AT psu, and i need to test with an atx.

Nice board. I see a pattern with ECS / Elitegroup boards - they love their white expansion slots / RTC socket. I have an ECS socket 7 board with the same color scheme, right down to the white RTC socket as well.

Katmai500 wrote:

Did this board come from the Great Pentium Pro Haul here on vogons?

Good eye.

This board did come from the Pentium Pro haul of 2018. It has the correct backplate (which is also new old stock) and the Dallas is socketed. I normally just buy one of these and call it a day. Glitch over at VCF makes them.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/273322727960?ul_noapp=true

or as wiretap pointed out in another thread (I completely forgot about this link)

https://www.tindie.com/products/glitchwrks/gw … acement-module/

Same guy, but a tad cheaper.

Nice looking board. I used to have a not-so-great opinion of ECS, but I'm starting to think that might not be fair. What I've seen recently has been pretty decent.

The RTC is not a big deal. You can still get replacement modules from Maxim, for one:
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/max … 2C887-ND/956875

... but there are tons of alternatives out there as well. I made one recently, and several people posted to tell me other people had already done it, and done it better. 😉 Now there's a whole list for you to pick from:
Tick tock

I just got a PS/2 Model 30 with one of these, so I'll be building a second one. Will post the results -- whether worked or not -- when I get the dusty old thing cleaned up and re-capped.

Also submitted the ECS Elitegroup P6FX1-A motherboard resources (manual & BIOS/disk images) to -0° for future reference.

http://www.minuszerodegrees.net/manuals.htm#ECS

ECS used to be pretty decent before they bought PCChips in my opinion. Then the quality obviously changed for the worst.

Oh, I didn't know about that. That's probably why. My experience with them started around the P4/Athlon era.

.legaCy wrote:

Those boards with AT and ATX psu can have the power supply changed directly? or it has some jumper that need to be set ? like i have a spare atx psu that i use for testing but the board were on a AT case,with an AT psu, and i need to test with an atx.

you can't select anything, they share the same powerlines, you can't put both power supplies at the same time. 😵
but you can mod and ATX supply to AT, I made it for my 486 😊 😎

manuelink64 wrote:

.legaCy wrote:

Those boards with AT and ATX psu can have the power supply changed directly? or it has some jumper that need to be set ? like i have a spare atx psu that i use for testing but the board were on a AT case,with an AT psu, and i need to test with an atx.

you can't select anything, they share the same powerlines, you can't put both power supplies at the same time. 😵
but you can mod and ATX supply to AT, I made it for my 486 😊 😎

Cause i have 4 boards like that 2 are pcchips m598lmr, one is a pcchips that i don't know the model with a socket 370 (those xcel boards) and one with an intel chipset, and they don't work(probably due to bad caps), they all had the same issue( no post, no beep, and post code says code 00), so for testing will use an ATX PSU.