It could be caps in the PSU. Or it could be cracked solder joints on the CCFL HV transformers. These crack due to vibrations (from pulsing magnetic fields) and sometimes take out the driving transistors when that happens. Shorted transistors in turn take out the PSU fuses, or the PSU itself. So before you commit to recapping, make sure you know what actually failed.

First off does the monitor not turn at all or is it just the screen that's not working? If the backlight fails you will be able to see a faint image if you shine a bright light at the screen (example). If that's not it you need to check the output side of the power supply - for a powerbrick type there's only one voltage to check, on an internal one there's usually a few that should be labeled on the PCB (careful around the internal PSUs as there is mains voltage on one side). Logic board normally gets 5V, the backlight out (either connecting to inverters or just straight to the LEDs) is about 30-70V depending on the type of monitor. What goes bad on the PSUs are either the capacitors or the voltage regulators - the obvious signs for capacitors would be leaking/bulging, and for the regulators a short-circuit when you check them with a multimeter in continuity mode.

Nprod wrote:

First off does the monitor not turn at all or is it just the screen that's not working? If the backlight fails you will be able to see a faint image if you shine a bright light at the screen (example). If that's not it you need to check the output side of the power supply - for a powerbrick type there's only one voltage to check, on an internal one there's usually a few that should be labeled on the PCB (careful around the internal PSUs as there is mains voltage on one side). Logic board normally gets 5V, the backlight out (either connecting to inverters or just straight to the LEDs) is about 30-70V depending on the type of monitor. What goes bad on the PSUs are either the capacitors or the voltage regulators - the obvious signs for capacitors would be leaking/bulging, and for the regulators a short-circuit when you check them with a multimeter in continuity mode.

Nothing, no power light, nothing.

mentioning actual model number wouldnt hurt 😉
open it up and measure the fuse for starters, no signs of life means supply is dead

Just open it up and look at the caps. If they're bulging and leaking, they're dead and recapping will probably fix it. Also check the fuses while you're at it.

I think a 24" monitor is worth fixing regardless of its age.

Hamby wrote:

I guess I should first ask, is this likely true?

Yes, it's an extremely common problem. The caps you'll need to replace will likely be 1000uf and 470uf; replace them all rather than just the ones that look dodgy.