VOGONS


First post, by Hamby

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I have a very frustrating system I've wasted weeks on. I'm done with it. I give up, I may give up on retro computing altogether. I'm tired of feeling stupid.
I had a K6-2 300mhz system. I had DOS6.22 / Win3.1 running on it, although it was getting flakey, which I blamed on the 6 gig HD.

So I decided to upgrade to a 8GB CF card with IDE adapter and install windows 98. Wouldn't recognize the card, or would recognize it but fdisk wouldn't partition it. or fdisk would partition it but the Win98 install couldn't find it or wouldn't format it. Reset the removable bit... would fdisk and format, but wouldn't install. Sometimes wouldn't recognize CD-ROM drive. Sometimes couldn't find either the CF drive or the CD-ROM. Got a 32GB ultra card that doesn't need the removable bit reset. Same thing. Reset the bit on it. Same thing.

Somewhere in here I got a new motherboard with Pentium 133 upgraded to 233. Can't find jumper 11 which I can set to change it from the 133 mhz pentium to the 233mhz pentium I also bought (to get close to the K6-2's clock speed), so I have to stick with the 133 cpu for now.

Got Win98 installed on the 8gb drive... tried installing Win98 on the 32GB drive. Computer wouldn't recognize the CD-ROM. Reinstalled the 8GB drive... still wouldn't. Used second IDE controller with CD-ROM separate cable... tried different CD-ROM. Still nothing. Won't boot from 8GB drive.

Took apart the power supply, cleaned it out, no sign of corrosion or bad caps. Still no joy. So now I've tried different motherboards, different cpus, different CD-ROMs, different CF cards, different IDE controllers on two different motherboards, pulled all peripheral cards, tried 2 different video cards...
The only thing I haven't replaced was the power supply.

Just blew money on 2 new EIDE cables. Stupid me, I figured they'd be backward compatible. But, no. There's a block in one of the pinholes of the cable ends, so they won't work with this motherboard.

I also blew money on a new power supply which I haven't installed yet because I was hoping to use it in a 286 or 486 build I was planning to have done by now.

Mode: Rant
No, I'm not adept at using a multimeter, I don't have an oscilloscope, my soldering iron is unused and probably inadequate, I haven't soldered in 20+ years. I don't know what capacitors or resistors or diodes to use if necessary, and I haven't a clue where to order them from (I miss Radio Shack). Digikey and Mouser are freaking impossible mazes for me. "What's the difference between this capacitor and this seemingly identical capacitor?" If I order, I'll end up with 20 different capacitors, none of which work with what I need, like happened with the IDE cable. (and the nearest Fry's is 200 miles away).

I was willing to try growing and fixing simple things, but if I'm inadequate to figure this stuff out... I'm getting to the point of to hell with it. I can't even get to first base.

No, I don't want to go to college and learn electrical engineering. I just wanted to develop modern GAMES on vintage hardware, using some vintage software on some vintage hardware for part of it, and testing on vintage hardware. I wanted to help keep the DOS and early Windows era alive. I wanted to explore the PC world I missed by being tied up in the Amiga world. I wanted an alternative to the internet appliances computers are becoming. I'm starting to pay too high a price to do what I wanted to do, while still not being able to do what I wanted to do!

I pulled the battery on a 286 motherboard because I saw the efflorescence of corrosion. I got myself a half dozen 2032 battery holders, only to find out here that no, you can't replace a barrel backup batter with a CR2032 because you need to install a diode here and cut a resistor there... find the right resistor on your own, and you should know what kind of diode is required and how to install it, dummy. You can't get replacement barrel batteries, but you can get these super capacitor thingies that you understand even less and will probably require some complex rewiring we're not going to bother telling you about. One person tells me I can use a rechargeable 2032 without the diode, another person tells me I can't, because the result could cause a chain reaction that would unravel the very fabric of the spacetime continuum and destroy the entire universe! Or worse, blow up my computer.

Oh, yeah... I broke the tabs on the memory sockets of my Soundblaster AWE32. No problem; I'm told I can get replacement sockets. No problem.. I get 30 pin sockets... that don't match the existing sockets. There's a gap between the banks in the existing ones and nobody told me there are different kinds of 30 pin sockets other than angled and not-angled. So I have another set of sockets on the way, that appear to match my Soundblaster's, but probably aren't angled now that I think about it, just... because.

It's not that I'm unwilling to learn to recap boards, or that I'm unwilling to solder in new memory sockets. It's that nothing I've done so far, works. So I can see myself pulling caps, and installing the wrong ones in the wrong place or the wrong orientation causing a chain reaction that would unravel the very fabric of the spacetime continuum and destroy the entire universe... or worse, blow up my computer.

Vintage hardware is getting darned expensive these days, as are parts, and I didn't have money to spare to begin with. And I figured getting this Win98 system going would be the easiest part.

So now I guess I have to surf YouTube for tutorials on how to use a multimeter to test the power supply. Hopefully they'll include what to look for as well as how to connect the multimeter up to it without the result causing a chain reaction that would unravel the very fabric of the spacetime continuum and destroy the entire universe... or blow up my power supply. Death isn't an optimal outcome, either, come to think of it.

I'm not condemning anyone for not being willing or able to help me figure this stuff out; nobody is under obligation to take me by the hand, and I'm not the kind to blame others for my own failure or inadequacy. I'm just at the end of my patience.

Mode: Analysis
It *has* to be either the power supply or the cables. Two different IDE cables would have to have broken lines in them for it to be the cables. And dummy here hasn't a clue how a power supply could affect recognition of IDE drives.

Since I can't try new cables, at least for awhile, I'll have to try the new power supply. It's 400watt with +12, -12, +5 and -5v on it. It should do the job... the current one is 230watt with the same voltages. I have the motherboard, 32mb ram, cpu, CF-IDE 8GB drive, Voodoo3 2000 video card, one 3.5" floppy and one IDE CD-ROM connected... and a case fan. And that's it. It shouldn't suck that much power.

I've an old OAK ISA VGA card I may try instead of the Voodoo3. I can't think of anything else to do (other than give up).

Reply 1 of 27, by BushLin

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At least you have a sense of humour about it.
You're nearly at the point of having two of everything, which isn't a bad place to be if you will always want to run old software. Testing against known good parts is the non-multimeter way to eliminate possible causes but you need to first have trusted and stable parts to test against.

Since you don't have a booting system to start with; perhaps try starting with IDE, test one channel and one cable at a time booting from a CD which is going to do more than boot to a DOS prompt. If you don't have an old Linux live CD or Windows PE you know would work on this system, perhaps just boot a Windows 2000 install CD. Once that works, try the other channels and cables to make sure they all work too. If they all work, you've eliminated that as a cause.
If it's intermittent on the same configuration it may be power supply but could also be board related...
but you have two boards and can do the same test on the other board.
Same with RAM, try one stick in one slot, then test that same stick in the other slot and see if it makes the problem appear or go away.

IDE to CF adapters can be flaky and/or the 32GB card may not be IDE compatible... I see lots of people with similar issues. Apparently the Startech branded adapters are the only branded ones you can buy where you have some certainty of not having problems. It's not something I have personal experience with but there are many threads of woe on these forums.

Screw period correct; I wanted a faster system back then. I choose no dropped frames, super fast loading, fully compatible and quiet operation.

Reply 2 of 27, by cyclone3d

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For those cables, you can just heat up a pin or needle and melt holes where the regular IDE cables have them. However, if the cables you got are the 80-wire ones with the one wire cut (you will see a small hole in the cable near the ends) I am not 100% sure if those will work or not.

As for drive controllers, I try to only use SATA drives if possible (anything with PCI slots). The best controller to get rid of the limitations of old boards is to get a Promise Sata I - 150 PCI RAID controller.

For IDE stuff, I try to use CF cards but I have found that even if you use a small enough card, it is very important to get a good brand. Some of the cards I bought that were the same model all came up with different auto-detected settings and none of them would work. The only way I could get them to halfway work was to hook them up to a newer system, get the auto-detect settings from the BIOS and manually enter them in the older system's BIOS.

I ended up buying some different CF cards that just work.

Yamaha modified setupds and drivers
Yamaha XG repository
YMF7x4 Guide
Aopen AW744L II SB-LINK

Reply 3 of 27, by Hamby

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Well, I used the same two old IDE cables. Connected the CDROM to the IDE1 as master and the CF card to IDE0 as master... and it found the CDROM.
But with both on IDE0 with the CDROM as slave... no joy.
I connected the CDROM to IDE0 as master... found the drive.

This makes me think my old K6-2 board isn't broken.

I dug the old motherboard... pretty sure it's a super socket 7.

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I saw the two power inputs there by the keyboard socket... does that mean this motherboard could take an ATX power supply?

Reply 4 of 27, by BushLin

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Hamby wrote:
Well, I used the same two old IDE cables. Connected the CDROM to the IDE1 as master and the CF card to IDE0 as master... and it […]
Show full quote

Well, I used the same two old IDE cables. Connected the CDROM to the IDE1 as master and the CF card to IDE0 as master... and it found the CDROM.
But with both on IDE0 with the CDROM as slave... no joy.
I connected the CDROM to IDE0 as master... found the drive.

This makes me think my old K6-2 board isn't broken.

I dug the old motherboard... pretty sure it's a super socket 7.

20190709_091639.jpg

I saw the two power inputs there by the keyboard socket... does that mean this motherboard could take an ATX power supply?

Looks like a 20-pin ATX power input, modern PSUs have 24-pins but may have the last 4-pins separately or you can use an adapter.

The common denominator looks like the hard drive from what you say but I'd probably give it a bit more testing than just BIOS detection appearing once.

Screw period correct; I wanted a faster system back then. I choose no dropped frames, super fast loading, fully compatible and quiet operation.

Reply 5 of 27, by Hamby

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I've got an ATX power supply in the closet, so I guess I could use that.

I noticed that the bios recognizes the CF as 32GB, but the Win98 boot floppy thought it was 8GB.
Windows 98SE is installing now, I'm hoping it recognized the full 32GB.
If not, I'll fall back to the 8GB drive and try to be happy.

Reply 7 of 27, by BushLin

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Maybe just use the 8GB card if that was working before. Getting everything up and running, know it's all good before trying to address the 32GB card and assessing any potential problems with it.

Screw period correct; I wanted a faster system back then. I choose no dropped frames, super fast loading, fully compatible and quiet operation.

Reply 8 of 27, by cyclone3d

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Yeah... if you want to use the whole card, you will need to partition it - probably on a newer computer.

Yamaha modified setupds and drivers
Yamaha XG repository
YMF7x4 Guide
Aopen AW744L II SB-LINK

Reply 10 of 27, by BushLin

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You can have glitches if your C: drive is larger than 20GB in Win98 but there's definitely something odd with it being detected as 8GB.
If your system is running and stable after install on the 8GB card, make a ghost image of the whole drive so you have that as a clean, known good state. Get all you drivers and software installed the way you want it, still stable? Make a Ghost image you can also return to if you're having problems and want to eliminate software as a cause. You could try writing that Ghost image to the 32GB card and see what happens, won't do any harm.
There are various partitioning tools / ways to blank a drive and start afresh. I'm a fan of Acronis Disk Director and the built in, command line diskpart utility in Windows 7 / Win7PE. If you have a copy of Hiren's Boot CD 10.6 you have all the tools you need without learning how to make your own boot media.

EDIT: I removed my own link to the newer hirensbootcd.org site, the 10.6 iso they have isn't identical to the original and may contain some nasties.
EDIT2: I've verified the contents of the iso to be identical, I would not touch the other files in the .zip However, it's probably best I don't link to a massive collection of commercial software.

Last edited by BushLin on 2019-07-09, 19:51. Edited 2 times in total.

Screw period correct; I wanted a faster system back then. I choose no dropped frames, super fast loading, fully compatible and quiet operation.

Reply 11 of 27, by mothergoose729

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I would try using a program like DBAN to write zeroes to the CF card. This will erase the MBR, effectively completely resetting the drive. Sometimes DOS can be sensitive about that kind of thing. You can also try formatting the CF card on a modern windows machine using diskpart, and then plug it back in and see if it will take.

The CF to IDE adapters are almost always passive. The trouble is most CF cards are not 100% compatible with the IDE protocols. On one computer it might be fine, plug it into a different computer with a different IDE controller and you can get a different result. I haven't found a reliable way of telling how retro friendly a CF card is. It seems like the older the card is, the better chance you have of it working.

Something else you can try, I have had a lot of success with cheap SATA to IDE adapters with my 20$ kingston SSD drive. As it turns out, you can still buy 32gb 2.5 SSD drives, or use a NVMe (AHCI) SSD to SATA adapter with one of the plentiful 16gb and 32gb sticks out there. Since the IDE adapter uses active circuitry (I think) they might be more reliable than compact flash.

As for your CD ROM Drive, I would make sure the pins on the back of the drive are set to master, and then give it its own IDE channel. Put the hard drive on a separate channel and you shouldn't have any issues.

Reply 12 of 27, by Warlord

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CF cards are not always confirm to FIxed Disk Mode. Sandisk only sells them as removable mode. for example there are 2 kinds of CFs.

The CF card has to be partitioned with and formatted with linux or something because you are trying to use a removable CF card as a hard drive instead of a industrial CF card. I already wrote about this on the forum, http://wp.xin.at/archives/1449

You may also need to use utility like Bootice to wipe out some wierd MBR that is on the CF card, then use FDISK /MBR switch to put a dos mbr on it.

Reply 14 of 27, by bakemono

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Well, I used the same two old IDE cables. Connected the CDROM to the IDE1 as master and the CF card to IDE0 as master... and it found the CDROM.
But with both on IDE0 with the CDROM as slave... no joy.

As you discovered, some devices do not play well with others, and they will unfortunately not coexist on the same cable. Always good to try separate cables where possible, for better compatibility and performance.

again another retro game on itch: https://90soft90.itch.io/shmup-salad

Reply 15 of 27, by Warlord

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As with PCs are different to Amiga during this time period. The problem with PCs during the vintage time period is yes there are standards for compatibility, but there are standards within standards within standards. Best way I can put it. Manufactures may of chose to implement things different using only a subset of a standard, or things may not be fully compliant you see. When trying to work on any kinda retro rig details are extremely important and sometimes well most of the time can't have the mind set that things will just work. Especially with Ram and expansion cards. Certain things you want them to be to a spec to guarantee to work, other things you want the most generic implementation for it to work. Its pretty much like working on cars.

Reply 16 of 27, by SirNickity

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Oh man... I can see why you're frustrated. I know everyone here is well-meaning, but it's like watching a tug-o-war of advice, and not all of it is correct.

BTW, I saw your post asking about 30-pin sockets and offered to send you a set. I have like 20 of them, already replaced the ones on my AWE32 so I know they're a perfect fit. Would have been happy to drop them in the mail on my own dime, but you never answered. 😉

I've done a couple of motherboard barrel-to-coin cell conversions as well. It's not trivial, as you kind of have to trace out the charging circuit and the part where it goes from the battery to the RTC. Well, you don't HAVE to, but they're not all entirely the same, and IMO, it's a lot better to know what's going on than just chucking a diode at it. That'll probably always work, and if you did it right, it should be safe. It's just not very elegant, and I always feel like you should know what the circuit does before modifying it.

Here's the post in my RTC saga where I modified two 486 boards: Re: Tick tock

I've also had issues with CF cards. I used to boot Linux "appliances" from them. (Stuff like home-built NAS or firewalls that I treat like dedicated hardware vs. computers.) Even using decent SanDisk media, I would often have to add the card's ID to the kernel DMA black-list, otherwise it would hang for a while during I/O ops. I've read that different IDE-to-CF interface boards might resolve that, as it could be an issue with the interface pinout, but I never tested that theory.

The MBR on existing disks -- particularly ones released and used around the time where BIOS limitations would hinder detection of the full disk capacity -- might also be a problem. I had one WD Caviar that looked dead, and just hung the PC on boot. There were two problems:

One, WD uses a different jumper setting for "Master" and "Single Drive". Most drives combine those two options into one jumper setting, but in at least that one case, the difference matters.

Second, the MBR had a drive overlay installed. Well, partially installed. The PO had removed the partitions but I hadn't yet zeroed the drive, so while I could boot from a floppy (like the DOS installation disk) and create partitions, format them, and install DOS, it would just hang on boot. Sometimes while beeping at me. All I had to do was boot from the floppy, run fdisk /mbr, reboot, and all was well. There's no need to zero the drive with DBAN or (in my typical case) badblocks, or similar.

So.. yes... the retro road is fraught with peril. Old parts, sometimes cranky parts, from a period where "compatibility" was not always awesome, combined with rusty memories from a lot of us that grew up during that period. Incomplete knowledge, cargo-cult wisdom, rumors, false positive (and negative) results... it's all there.

Hang in there. When you run into a problem, just slow down. Post a thread about that one problem and let's dig into it. Don't just throw money at it, or throw ideas at the wall to see what sticks. You'll just end up frustrated. Let's do this methodically, and get you through it and on to the next issue. But you have to do your part too, like checking in after you post. 😉

Reply 17 of 27, by bakemono

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mothergoose729 wrote:

I found this with a quick search, might be worth a try:

https://www.techwalla.com/articles/how-to-set … d-to-fixed-mode

BTW, I tried this utility on a 64GB CF card that I put WinXP onto, and it didn't work with that card. But I installed this driver (need to select it manually) for the CF card and then I was able to setup a swapfile as normal: https://matthieu.yiptong.ca/2012/03/16/window … ildrvr1224-zip/

Reply 18 of 27, by hwh

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Hamby wrote:
Well, I used the same two old IDE cables. Connected the CDROM to the IDE1 as master and the CF card to IDE0 as master... and it […]
Show full quote

Well, I used the same two old IDE cables. Connected the CDROM to the IDE1 as master and the CF card to IDE0 as master... and it found the CDROM.
But with both on IDE0 with the CDROM as slave... no joy.
I connected the CDROM to IDE0 as master... found the drive.

This makes me think my old K6-2 board isn't broken.

I dug the old motherboard... pretty sure it's a super socket 7.

20190709_091639.jpg

I saw the two power inputs there by the keyboard socket... does that mean this motherboard could take an ATX power supply?

Yeah. I am reminded of some bad old days. I had a lot of old hardware coming in and I tested everything. What didn't work went in the trash. Likely everything was working or close to it, it was all in excellent condition physically. But those cables were SO inconsistent. I frequently ended up with some odd illogical combination of jumpers to get two devices on an IDE working (one device much easier, but no guarantee, I think one time, somehow, a device on a separate cable, somehow, managed to interfere with another).

And my point, I had these nice Epson 5.25 drives, spring loaded. I loved them but I couldn't get them working. And for me that meant the trash. You can't buy this stuff today. My experience since then has been that they're very, very sensitive about connections and cables. They're keyed but sometimes they just refuse to work (once they're set up they are fine, but they just seem to love to pretend they're broken when you're connecting them). I super regret all the clean stuff I threw away, but I probably couldn't have held on to it all anyway.

Today's policy is more of a die hard "if it doesn't work, set it aside and if I can't help it, sell it to someone who can." Anyway...

that is indeed a cross compatible AT/ATX board. You might have to configure it or it might just be plug and play. Always a good idea to find the manual for your board if possible so you have a clue of what you're doing and what the choices are.

Reply 19 of 27, by Hamby

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SirNickity wrote:
Oh man... I can see why you're frustrated. I know everyone here is well-meaning, but it's like watching a tug-o-war of advice, […]
Show full quote

Oh man... I can see why you're frustrated. I know everyone here is well-meaning, but it's like watching a tug-o-war of advice, and not all of it is correct.

BTW, I saw your post asking about 30-pin sockets and offered to send you a set. I have like 20 of them, already replaced the ones on my AWE32 so I know they're a perfect fit. Would have been happy to drop them in the mail on my own dime, but you never answered. 😉

I've done a couple of motherboard barrel-to-coin cell conversions as well. It's not trivial, as you kind of have to trace out the charging circuit and the part where it goes from the battery to the RTC. Well, you don't HAVE to, but they're not all entirely the same, and IMO, it's a lot better to know what's going on than just chucking a diode at it. That'll probably always work, and if you did it right, it should be safe. It's just not very elegant, and I always feel like you should know what the circuit does before modifying it.

Here's the post in my RTC saga where I modified two 486 boards: Re: Tick tock

I've also had issues with CF cards. I used to boot Linux "appliances" from them. (Stuff like home-built NAS or firewalls that I treat like dedicated hardware vs. computers.) Even using decent SanDisk media, I would often have to add the card's ID to the kernel DMA black-list, otherwise it would hang for a while during I/O ops. I've read that different IDE-to-CF interface boards might resolve that, as it could be an issue with the interface pinout, but I never tested that theory.

The MBR on existing disks -- particularly ones released and used around the time where BIOS limitations would hinder detection of the full disk capacity -- might also be a problem. I had one WD Caviar that looked dead, and just hung the PC on boot. There were two problems:

One, WD uses a different jumper setting for "Master" and "Single Drive". Most drives combine those two options into one jumper setting, but in at least that one case, the difference matters.

Second, the MBR had a drive overlay installed. Well, partially installed. The PO had removed the partitions but I hadn't yet zeroed the drive, so while I could boot from a floppy (like the DOS installation disk) and create partitions, format them, and install DOS, it would just hang on boot. Sometimes while beeping at me. All I had to do was boot from the floppy, run fdisk /mbr, reboot, and all was well. There's no need to zero the drive with DBAN or (in my typical case) badblocks, or similar.

So.. yes... the retro road is fraught with peril. Old parts, sometimes cranky parts, from a period where "compatibility" was not always awesome, combined with rusty memories from a lot of us that grew up during that period. Incomplete knowledge, cargo-cult wisdom, rumors, false positive (and negative) results... it's all there.

Hang in there. When you run into a problem, just slow down. Post a thread about that one problem and let's dig into it. Don't just throw money at it, or throw ideas at the wall to see what sticks. You'll just end up frustrated. Let's do this methodically, and get you through it and on to the next issue. But you have to do your part too, like checking in after you post. 😉

Thanks for the advice. I'm sorry I didn't get back to you, I didn't see your offer for some reason?
I have two more sets that just arrived in the mail. They look like a match to the AWE32 (angled and everything) and they have metal clips which will be a plus.

Well, she boots off the 8GB card (which is enough, I'd just like more. Maybe I'll stick a regular HD as a secondary drive for more storage).
Since I installed the driver software for the Voodoo 3 video card... she hangs, seemingly randomly.
I noticed when I first boot, only sometimes, that I get scrambled looking characters. And when I installed the 3DFX drivers, the splash screen had verticle lines in it. So I'm guessing that video card is toast 🙁
Seeing what's being sold on ebay, seems a lot of the old 3DFX cards are dying.

Can you advise me on an era-appropriate VGA card? I'll need 2D and 3D acceleration, OpenGL support, DOS and Win95 support. I know only 3DFX cards would have Glide support, but that's okay, I've a voodoo2 accelerator I plan to put on my 486 when I build it, assuming *it* isn't also dead. It will be a DOS 6.22 / WFW 3.11 system. I've gathered that something like a 256mb ATI 9700 would still work with Win98, and the overkill would be wonderful for some of what I want to do, but I'd like something more realistic and more assuredly compatible. I was thinking of maybe a TNT2, or S3 Savage.

While I'm at it, can you advise me of a good 2D vga card that I could pair up with the Voodoo 2 in that 486 build?