This thread might be helpful:
Fabricating a New Turbo Display

In short, no. They were custom jobs for the case manufacturer. *IF* you find a module available on eBay that happens to be designed for the same case, or at least the same manufacturer (if they standardized their mounts and display dimensions), then you might get lucky. Two different manufacturers might even source the same module OEM.

But, if you pick any random module and try to mount it to any random case, it will probably not fit.

Repair or re-design are your best options.

might be easy to repair, I once fried it and it was only the 5v trace that burned up. for such a big piece of pcb quiet easy to run jump wire. But depends what fried

you could always make one yourself from a piece of prototype board

treeman wrote on 2020-03-03, 01:57:

might be easy to repair, I once fried it and it was only the 5v trace that burned up. for such a big piece of pcb quiet easy to run jump wire. But depends what fried

Unfortunately it's the LED display itself that has "fried", the PCB looks fine to me. The LED display kind of still works, except some of the segments are either very dim or missing entirely. I'm sure it could be fixed by replacing the LED but again, I have no idea where to get such a part. It's one of those displays with 3 digits, except the first digit can only be a "1".

peg wrote on 2020-03-03, 19:51:

The LED display kind of still works, except some of the segments are either very dim or missing entirely.

sounds like a power issue, i.e. damage to the trace or connector supplying power to the LED

It's probably not the LED module. In general, LEDs don't have an issue with being connected in reverse. The 'D' stands for diode, after all, which is a one-way component. They're used to protect downstream components from reverse-polarity faults, rectify AC to DC, and other things of that nature. (As all diodes do, LEDs will have a breakdown voltage when connected in reverse, but it's likely to be significantly higher than -5V.)

It's more likely you burned out a transistor or a trace on the PCB. The only way you were likely to damage the LEDs is if, rather than reverse polarity, you were somehow able to circumvent the per-segment current limiting resistor. Then, it wasn't the polarity that killed it, it just burned out from over-current.

The only component on the small PCB besides the LED display is a resistor, and it appears to be fine (although I must say I didn't actually test it with a multimeter). I guess I will test the traces tonight as well. That said, I'm nearly positive that the LED is toast, when I plugged it in wrong, all the digits turned orange/red and started to dim out (normally green colored). If the trace was fried how would it appear dim, wouldn't it just be blank?

If you look at the PCB (in the picture I posted above) it has a "+" and "-" in the place I plugged it into, while the other side has a 5V and G where it should have been plugged into. It was working until I plugged it into the other side.

Oh, OK. So yeah -- chances are it wasn't reverse polarity, but you were effectively bypassing the current limiting resistor. LEDs, as diodes, are essentially a short circuit once the voltage is high enough to overcome their forward voltage. On a green LED, I think that's 2.1V from memory (I should really make it a point to memorize that some day...), so basically ~3V shorted through the LED at whatever current the power supply leads and traces on the PCB could sustain. Youch.

The two-digit LED modules are fairly common, but the three-digit modules, with the narrow spacing required to fit in the same window as 2-digit displays... those are harder to come by. 🙁

I had the same issue with a 2 digit display, I managed to find a replacement for it. 3 digit will be a lot harder to find. There are also some more things that can be different from one display to the next, like the pinout (common anode vs. common cathode), color, digit size, etc.

Also true. Is your PC >99MHz? If not, a standard 2-digit module, some resistors, and (as mentioned above) proto board could get you back up to speed. (heh)

peg wrote on 2020-03-03, 21:46:

The only component on the small PCB besides the LED display is a resistor, and it appears to be fine (although I must say I didn't actually test it with a multimeter). I guess I will test the traces tonight as well. That said, I'm nearly positive that the LED is toast, when I plugged it in wrong, all the digits turned orange/red and started to dim out (normally green colored). If the trace was fried how would it appear dim, wouldn't it just be blank?

If you look at the PCB (in the picture I posted above) it has a "+" and "-" in the place I plugged it into, while the other side has a 5V and G where it should have been plugged into. It was working until I plugged it into the other side.

So the PCB is fine, then?
In that case, a new seven-segment LED display with matching pinout and polarity is all you need, right?
Should be a lot easier to get than a complete replacement "turbo display".

Well I would...if I could find a LED display. It's a 3 digit display, with the first digit fixed to "1" on/off and the other 2 digits are settable via the jumpers. Apparently they are impossible to find.

In that case you'll have to find an appropriately sized three-digit display and build a new module from scratch, either on perfboard or on a custom PCB.
Alternatively, you can build the entire display from scratch using rectangular LEDs.

peg wrote on 2020-03-09, 19:00:

Well I would...if I could find a LED display. It's a 3 digit display, with the first digit fixed to "1" on/off and the other 2 digits are settable via the jumpers. Apparently they are impossible to find.

It is of course not at all certain if any design will work on a turbo display board but 2.5 digits 7-segment led displays are still on the market:
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/red-co … .4e0a7661kz1IiQ

PARKE wrote on 2020-03-10, 13:04:

peg wrote on 2020-03-09, 19:00:

Well I would...if I could find a LED display. It's a 3 digit display, with the first digit fixed to "1" on/off and the other 2 digits are settable via the jumpers. Apparently they are impossible to find.

It is of course not at all certain if any design will work on a turbo display board but 2.5 digits 7-segment led displays are still on the market:
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/red-co … .4e0a7661kz1IiQ

When I started my turbo display project, I tried ordering that.. it was a minimum run of 1000 to order, even though it says single pieces.

Make sure to check dimensions on any 3-digit modules. Most of them are too wide to fit in the display cutouts. My guess is those cases were tooled for 2-digit displays, and rather than spinning up a new case mold, they just contracted narrower display modules. None that I found had an appropriate width. Or, if they did, they were comically short.