Yes, it´s PCCHIPS, branded as Matsonic (look at the rest of sticker).

Thank you very much!!!

Good afternoon (it's Spain). I have recently bought the Philips 5107-200-35233 motherboard and although it has oxidation in some parts it may work. I'm going to clean it with isopropyl alcohol and then I would like to connect it but it has two DIP switches and I don't know how to configure them. Does anyone have the manual? Thank you.

Looks pretty close to this: https://theretroweb.com/motherboards/s/dec-pc-386sx-ce-p3348
https://theretroweb.com/motherboard/manual/33997.pdf

Not sure about the DEC listing there. Looks like it was used in the Philip P3348: https://www.it-info.hu/2020/09/08/retro/

Thank you very much

Good morning, yesterday I connected the motherboard and a capacitor exploded. Can you help me identify the capacitor, it is the same as the one next to it.

jnemo2004 wrote on 2023-01-30, 07:26:

Good morning, yesterday I connected the motherboard and a capacitor exploded. Can you help me identify the capacitor, it is the same as the one next to it.

The 226 marking tells that it is a 22uF 10V smd chip tantalum.

I think the 20K line says that they're made by Kemet and are 20V rated. Replacement doesn't have to be Kemet, just 22uF and 20V rated. Actually, depending on which voltage supply it's connected to then other voltages might also be ok. Not sure about the size, maybe 2917 (7343 metric, so 7.3mm long by 4.3mm wide). Something like this maybe: https://uk.farnell.com/kemet/t491d226m020at/c … HP-STM7REC-RP-1

Thank you very much.
It is a 7343.

Thank you very much for the information, I have already ordered the capacitors. I have a question to ask you, I will connect the motherboard to a VGA monitor but I am not sure how to put the SW2 switches (as indicated in the manual in a previous post). The plate has come with all closed.

Hello, I'm trying to identify this motherboard. I was able to find motherboards that look similar to this, but with a different pin layout (next to the memory slots). I'm trying to find the model/maker in order to try to find the manual and figure out what each pin means. Some of them have a label, but others don't. I still need to figure out the pins for the external battery, power on indicator and keyboard lock. Thank you so much!

Good morning (in Spain), could you please help me to identify this motherboard. Thank you very much

All you need to do, is to put "PC Chips TX Pro-II" into google, and viola...you go
https://theretroweb.com/motherboards/s/pcchips-m571-v3.2-a

it's obvious it is PC Chips, with "Burn-in" sticker, and also, by special chipset name Tx Pro, which only PC chips used.
https://hardwaresecrets.com/chipset-aliases-t … -vx-pro-and-co/

You are great!. Thank you very much.

I need some help figuring out what this 286 motherboard is. It's almost identical to the Biostar MB-1212V except for some components on the edge near the ISA slots. Maybe it's just an earlier revision. Does anyone know what the logo on the serial number sticker is?

I actually found one on eBay but the seller doesn't seem to know any details about it either. https://www.ebay.com/itm/185759011221

Other very similar boards:
Shuttle 12MHZ ZERO-WAIT 80286 TURBO
DTK MBVLSI-168 (V.2)

They all have different jumpers on the side with the ISA slots and I haven't found any documentation with "JPA" and "JPB" listings yet. I just removed the battery and am attempting to make sure I have it set correctly for an external lithium battery. As far as I can tell, all I need to do is move JPA over (above the JP17 battery header) so it doesn't connect with the battery terminals but a little confirmation would be nice to have.

Chupperson wrote on 2023-02-07, 06:07:

I just removed the battery and am attempting to make sure I have it set correctly for an external lithium battery.

FYI not all mobos can be set to non-rechargeable battery. Most will accept one on the external battery connector but the way this is done is with an extra diode to prevent charging, but that in turns casues some additional 0.7V drop so the battery used needs to be 3.6V at least (usually up to 6V with 4.5V - like a 3xAA pack - being a good middle ground).

An alternative to the connector is to remove another diode, or the current limiting resistor, from the charging circuit. But on most mobos that will result in no power for RTC/CMOS even when running on AC, so the battery will be always drained. That too can be modded but it's no longer a trivial removal of one or two components.

TL;DR: There might not be a jumper to do what you want.

After testing voltages on the battery header and changing the jumpers I suspected, it seems you may be correct in the case of this board, but it would still be nice to be able to find some documentation about it.
Not to get too off topic here, but if I'm seeing a voltage increase in sort of a sawtooth wave-type shape up to about 0.9v, would you call that normal charging behavior? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t1AgC6aCiP0

Hello, I'm here again.
Could you please help me to identify this motherboard (486)?
Thank you very much.

jnemo2004 wrote on 2023-02-08, 15:23:

Hello, I'm here again.
Could you please help me to identify this motherboard (486)?
Thank you very much.

https://theretroweb.com/motherboards/s/epox-pronix-gxa486sg

Thank you very much!!. Regards.