Brute389 wrote on 2021-02-01, 05:00:

Hello everybody,

I am asking for help in trying to fix a cracked plastic pcb connector slot that my PCMCIA board connects into on my laptop's motherboard. I discovered the crack initally after realizing none of my PC cards were being detected despite the PCMCIA hardware working normally. So I tried fixing the crack by using JB PlasticWeld and letting it cure for a day. The PCMCIA board kinda works, but I keep getting a code 10 error when I try to install drivers for any PC cards. The code 10 error I believe is due to the slot having been widened and cracked so that it is not producing a good enough connection to deliver enough power. So, it did not work, and I took apart the machine again to find the same crack reappearing as in the photos attached. So I'm lost on how to proceed as I used a really strong epoxy that ended up failing, and am looking for advice on what to do next. Thanks.

I do not know how much space you have around that slot but is possible to use a hardened thick wire bent to shape (sort of a staple) to keep that side from spreading.
Then use JB Weld or other epoxy to keep the "staple" in place. Very hard to glue ABS, Phenyl or other plastics when the pressure comes from with-in and no outside support...
If the PCMIA board does not have room to be inserted with a wire there (some have wide openings around the slot, some not) then cannot think of anything to fix it except replacement. Just a thought.

are you good with wires? I suppose you could jump the contacts on the slot to the contacts on the card. Was hoping that after clamping the thing together it would stay. Only other suggestion is to find a donor 2805 like the junky one with the savage graphics use a hot air station and de-solder the slot from both boards and solder a new one on. Id maybe try the staple suggestion from horon 1st but you need good clamp like some vise grips that will clamp it tight or it wont work. Then try jumper wires. all else fails than you need to do hot air rework.

Not sure how practical this idea would be, and TBH I don't know what they're called or why they're there, but over the years I had a few boards which came with these types of sprung steel U-shaped metal braces on various IO slots. They weren't to fix a cracked slot, as none ever were, so I can only assume they were system-builder installed as additional strain relief.

Only one I have at present came on the AGP slot of my P2B-DS

PC Hoarder Patrol wrote on 2021-02-02, 05:43:

Not sure how practical this idea would be, and TBH I don't know what they're called or why they're there, but over the years I had a few boards which came with these types of sprung steel U-shaped metal braces on various IO slots. They weren't to fix a cracked slot, as none ever were, so I can only assume they were system-builder installed as additional strain relief.

Only one I have at present came on the AGP slot of my P2B-DS

Connector Brace.jpg

I love this idea. However, I am having a hard time finding anything on it as like you said don't even know what those are called! I appreciate all the ideas everybody. Still trying to decide how best to move forward.

Brute389 wrote on 2021-02-02, 06:53:

PC Hoarder Patrol wrote on 2021-02-02, 05:43:

Not sure how practical this idea would be, and TBH I don't know what they're called or why they're there, but over the years I had a few boards which came with these types of sprung steel U-shaped metal braces on various IO slots. They weren't to fix a cracked slot, as none ever were, so I can only assume they were system-builder installed as additional strain relief.

Only one I have at present came on the AGP slot of my P2B-DS

Connector Brace.jpg

I love this idea. However, I am having a hard time finding anything on it as like you said don't even know what those are called! I appreciate all the ideas everybody. Still trying to decide how best to move forward.

Only ideas I've come up with are all a bit left field, but here goes -

small binder clips (the ones with removeable handles) - these may need shortened on both outside edges

some garment hangers come with small metal compression clips

cut a small u-shape from cast acrylic so that it's a very tight fit over the compressed slot (think it needs to be wider at the back than the sides)

acrylic or plastic cut to fit the connector, paired with a non-conductive epoxy would be the way to go.
if it were me. I'd make a piece that fits inside the connector snugly to act as an inward brace and prevent deformation and buckling, the outer brace, apply epoxy, and clamp until cured.
The only word of caution I'd make is to make sure you don't get epoxy inside the pin cavities.

Sorry it has been a little bit guys but it seems like I had to go through even more hoops to figure out the issues. First off, the board on the caddy I had was bad because I swapped it with another from a parts board I already had, and it could read both slots, but I was still getting code 10 errors with slot 1, so the cracked connector was still a problem.

To fix the cracked conector, I intially tried zip ties but they were too thick and blocked the board from being fully inserted. Next, I tried to use a hair pin clip, which I found to hold too much tension as well as still blocking the caddy itself. Before I started going through all of your ideas, I decided to try a paper clip. I molded it and put it on and it worked! Even better, the paper clip is already insulated with the coating it has on.

Unfortunately, I broke one of the sliding arms on the caddy as I was screwing it back onto the board, so I'm gonna get another caddy, which as long as the board is not bad on it like my first one, then I should be good to go!

Hey guys,

Unfortunately, my luck went from bad to worse, which is completely unrelated to the previous problem at hand. After I reassembled everything, it was working fine until today when I went to turn it on and arrived at a running system but a black screen. I turned it off, and as soon as I picked up the laptop to disassemble it, I heard a clattering inside. I unscrewed everything to find a loose capacitor going through the unit, and took a picture of where the capacitor originated from. Now, I have never dealt with capacitors so I have two questions, is my system still salvageable? If so, how do I go about reattaching this capacitor back on its spot? Thanks.

Brute389 wrote on 2021-02-10, 07:22:

Hey guys,

Unfortunately, my luck went from bad to worse, which is completely unrelated to the previous problem at hand. After I reassembled everything, it was working fine until today when I went to turn it on and arrived at a running system but a black screen. I turned it off, and as soon as I picked up the laptop to disassemble it, I heard a clattering inside. I unscrewed everything to find a loose capacitor going through the unit, and took a picture of where the capacitor originated from. Now, I have never dealt with capacitors so I have two questions, is my system still salvageable? If so, how do I go about reattaching this capacitor back on its spot? Thanks.

This can easily be soldered back on. Orientation does not matter. Just put some flux on the solder pads and silver capacitor ends, place the capacitor with its silver ends on the solder pads (from the looks of it it should still fit in there very well), hold it down with some tweezers and use a soldering iron at 350°C+ to heat one pad (and ideally the capacitor end at the same time) until the old solder melts, remove the iron and wait a few seconds for the solder to solidify. Then repeat with the other side and add some new solder to both ends to strengthen the connection.
If you have a helper it's even simpler: Just have them hold down the capacitor in its place and use a soldering iron and new rosin core solder to attach the capacitor to its pads. Done.

I don't know wether the system will work again after that though. Keep in mind the capacitor could have shorted something while it was at large.

I'd try using super glue. I think Loctite has a thicker gel glue which is easier to work with. It stays where you put it and won't go onto the contacts unless you use too much. I fixed broken RAM slots with that.

Doornkaat wrote on 2021-02-10, 10:13:

This can easily be soldered back on. Orientation does not matter. Just put some flux on the solder pads and silver capacitor end […]
Show full quote

Brute389 wrote on 2021-02-10, 07:22:

Hey guys,

Unfortunately, my luck went from bad to worse, which is completely unrelated to the previous problem at hand. After I reassembled everything, it was working fine until today when I went to turn it on and arrived at a running system but a black screen. I turned it off, and as soon as I picked up the laptop to disassemble it, I heard a clattering inside. I unscrewed everything to find a loose capacitor going through the unit, and took a picture of where the capacitor originated from. Now, I have never dealt with capacitors so I have two questions, is my system still salvageable? If so, how do I go about reattaching this capacitor back on its spot? Thanks.

This can easily be soldered back on. Orientation does not matter. Just put some flux on the solder pads and silver capacitor ends, place the capacitor with its silver ends on the solder pads (from the looks of it it should still fit in there very well), hold it down with some tweezers and use a soldering iron at 350°C+ to heat one pad (and ideally the capacitor end at the same time) until the old solder melts, remove the iron and wait a few seconds for the solder to solidify. Then repeat with the other side and add some new solder to both ends to strengthen the connection.
If you have a helper it's even simpler: Just have them hold down the capacitor in its place and use a soldering iron and new rosin core solder to attach the capacitor to its pads. Done.

I don't know wether the system will work again after that though. Keep in mind the capacitor could have shorted something while it was at large.

I appreciate the suggestion! Funny enough, I called a local computer place, and they had a solder guy who would do the job. The cost was equivalent to me getting a solder set so I figured why not. Took him like 10 minutes and he didn't even let me pay for it! I ran home and put it together, and everything appears to be working correctly now. Was definitely a stressful 24 hours.

Wow! That's great that you found a place that will do component level repairs. I'm also glad to hear it's all worked out for you as well.

Brute389 wrote on 2021-02-10, 23:29:

I appreciate the suggestion! Funny enough, I called a local computer place, and they had a solder guy who would do the job. The cost was equivalent to me getting a solder set so I figured why not. Took him like 10 minutes and he didn't even let me pay for it! I ran home and put it together, and everything appears to be working correctly now. Was definitely a stressful 24 hours.

Cool! Thanks for keeping us updated! 😀

Doornkaat wrote on 2021-02-13, 10:55:

Brute389 wrote on 2021-02-10, 23:29:

I appreciate the suggestion! Funny enough, I called a local computer place, and they had a solder guy who would do the job. The cost was equivalent to me getting a solder set so I figured why not. Took him like 10 minutes and he didn't even let me pay for it! I ran home and put it together, and everything appears to be working correctly now. Was definitely a stressful 24 hours.

Cool! Thanks for keeping us updated! 😀

Yeah no problem. I appreciate all the friendly advice because I'm probably going to run into this in the future anyways, and it is good to know how to do it myself if I ever need to!