0 stands for 0 ohms

You should be able to solder it shut

Best I can see, that pad is set up in a T configuration to where you could put the link in one of three ways, or it ‘s meant to hold a link or a three legged component of some type, my bet is it’s set up as a switch, and that bridge is the one the designers chose. (Leave it that way)

But yeah, a solder bridge would replace that.

But I think your problem may be elsewhere, because, how exactly do you burn out a 0 ohm link, with 0 ohms the energy is going elsewhere.

I’m thinking the link may still be 0ohms (test it)

And that something else or just the capacitor is shot.

That's a 0 Ohm resistor. It's like a soldered jumper.
The silk screen marking is probably 'D21' (instead of C21) and referrs to a diode that may be installed in its place. (There's a third solder pad above the resistor and three legs are marked.)

There's probably another fault on this motherboard since it is not likely (though not unthinkable) that a resistor like that just goes up in flames.

Doornkaat wrote on 2022-01-28, 08:49:

That's a 0 Ohm resistor. It's like a soldered jumper.
The silk screen marking is probably 'D21' (instead of C21) and referrs to a diode that may be installed in its place. (There's a third solder pad above the resistor and three legs are marked.)

There's probably another fault on this motherboard since it is not likely (though not unthinkable) that a resistor like that just goes up in flames.

Its C21 for sure and the third pad isnt used for anything at least from what i can see. There wasnt anything else that popped or exploded of fried anywhere on the board. Could be the bios chip cuz its nearby. Gonna take it to a local repair this afternoon(in my country) and will see what he has to say. If he cant do anything i will try to just remove it and put a blob on it

Sphere478 wrote on 2022-01-28, 08:47:

0 stands for 0 ohms […]
Show full quote

0 stands for 0 ohms

You should be able to solder it shut

Best I can see, that pad is set up in a T configuration to where you could put the link in one of three ways, or it ‘s meant to hold a link or a three legged component of some type, my bet is it’s set up as a switch, and that bridge is the one the designers chose. (Leave it that way)

But yeah, a solder bridge would replace that.

But I think your problem may be elsewhere, because, how exactly do you burn out a 0 ohm link, with 0 ohms the energy is going elsewhere.

I’m thinking the link may still be 0ohms (test it)

And that something else or just the capacitor is shot.

What do you mean by "the capacitor is shot"?

Geofand26 wrote on 2022-01-28, 09:06:

Sphere478 wrote on 2022-01-28, 08:47:

0 stands for 0 ohms […]
Show full quote

0 stands for 0 ohms

You should be able to solder it shut

Best I can see, that pad is set up in a T configuration to where you could put the link in one of three ways, or it ‘s meant to hold a link or a three legged component of some type, my bet is it’s set up as a switch, and that bridge is the one the designers chose. (Leave it that way)

But yeah, a solder bridge would replace that.

But I think your problem may be elsewhere, because, how exactly do you burn out a 0 ohm link, with 0 ohms the energy is going elsewhere.

I’m thinking the link may still be 0ohms (test it)

And that something else or just the capacitor is shot.

What do you mean by "the capacitor is shot"?

In the great words of John Cleese

"I'll tell you what's wrong with it, my lad. 'E's dead, that's what's wrong with it!"

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z9SMUzj-_4Q

Geofand26 wrote on 2022-01-28, 09:01:

Its C21 for sure

Not to be a dick but it isn't.

Doornkaat wrote on 2022-01-28, 09:20:

Geofand26 wrote on 2022-01-28, 09:01:

Its C21 for sure

Not to be a dick but it isn't.

I shouldn't but im laughing right now cause you are factually correct That's clearly not a C, I cant help but hear that in Johns voice.

Ill show my self out.

Doornkaat wrote on 2022-01-28, 09:20:

Geofand26 wrote on 2022-01-28, 09:01:

Its C21 for sure

Not to be a dick but it isn't.

It got burned yea you are correct sorry for wrong info

Geofand26 wrote on 2022-01-28, 09:24:

Doornkaat wrote on 2022-01-28, 09:20:

Geofand26 wrote on 2022-01-28, 09:01:

Its C21 for sure

Not to be a dick but it isn't.

It got burned yea you are correct sorry for wrong info

No worries! 👍

Just checked under the bios chip and i can vaguely see a blacked(burned?) trace. Probably killed the bios chip. Gonna remove the socket and see what i can do about the trace. Can i flash a new bios on an eprom chip or do i have to use something else?

Geofand26 wrote on 2022-01-28, 09:28:

Just checked under the bios chip and i can vaguely see a blacked(burned?) trace. Probably killed the bios chip. Gonna remove the socket and see what i can do about the trace. Can i flash a new bios on an eprom chip or do i have to use something else?

You can if you can get hold of a blank eprom thats the same size as the one in there, it also possible the old bios is ok but the burned trace prevents it from working, keep hold of it and try reading it in a programmer, if you can read it fine and it doesnt look corrupted then keeping it as a spare/backup would be best.

Geofand26 wrote on 2022-01-28, 09:06:

Sphere478 wrote on 2022-01-28, 08:47:

0 stands for 0 ohms […]
Show full quote

0 stands for 0 ohms

You should be able to solder it shut

Best I can see, that pad is set up in a T configuration to where you could put the link in one of three ways, or it ‘s meant to hold a link or a three legged component of some type, my bet is it’s set up as a switch, and that bridge is the one the designers chose. (Leave it that way)

But yeah, a solder bridge would replace that.

But I think your problem may be elsewhere, because, how exactly do you burn out a 0 ohm link, with 0 ohms the energy is going elsewhere.

I’m thinking the link may still be 0ohms (test it)

And that something else or just the capacitor is shot.

What do you mean by "the capacitor is shot"?

I assume that’s where all the gooey stuff came from.

It'd make sense if the EEPROM was defective that it would draw more current than the resistor could handle.
If the trace and socket are ok a new EEPROM with BIOS on it should do the job. I don't think you're likely to cause more damage by trying it out. Good luck! 😀

TrashPanda wrote on 2022-01-28, 09:22:

Doornkaat wrote on 2022-01-28, 09:20:

Geofand26 wrote on 2022-01-28, 09:01:

Its C21 for sure

Not to be a dick but it isn't.

I shouldn't but im laughing right now cause you are factually correct That's clearly not a C, I cant help but hear that in Johns voice.

Ill show my self out.

Yeah, that'd fit right into the dead parrot sketch! 😆

Am I the only one taking about the capacitor? Desolder that capacitor and check it for short.

Yeah, I see that burnt trace, I bet that capacitor did it, suspecting bios is fine. Replace cap and link and clean it up and maybe you are good to go?

Thanks for the answers. I cant troubleshoot any further for now so after a few hours i will write back with results. You helped me more than most repair shops which just tell me "its too old so i wont even diagnose it" so again thank you so much!

Geofand26 wrote on 2022-01-28, 09:40:

Thanks for the answers. I cant troubleshoot any further for now so after a few hours i will write back with results. You helped me more than most repair shops which just tell me "its too old so i wont even diagnose it" so again thank you so much!

Those are called excuseshops.

You mentioned this happened while upgrading hard drive?

Did you plug cable in wrong?

Sphere478 wrote on 2022-01-28, 09:40:

Am I the only one taking about the capacitor? Desolder that capacitor and check it for short.

Yeah, I see that burnt trace, I bet that capacitor did it, suspecting bios is fine. Replace cap and link and clean it up and maybe you are good to go?

There are two traces leading away from the burnt resistor. The trace leading to the capacitor is fine while the one leading to the EEPROM socket is burnt. Because of that I would suspect the short to be caused by the EEPROM, not the capacitor, even though you are right in that old electrolytics are never not suspect. 😅
The grime is probably burnt resistor and solder mask.

Geofand26 wrote on 2022-01-28, 09:40:

Thanks for the answers. I cant troubleshoot any further for now so after a few hours i will write back with results. You helped me more than most repair shops which just tell me "its too old so i wont even diagnose it" so again thank you so much!

Fingers crossed, hope you get it fixed! 😀

Doornkaat wrote on 2022-01-28, 09:45:

There are two traces leading away from the burnt resistor. The trace leading to the capacitor is fine while the one leading to t […]
Show full quote

Sphere478 wrote on 2022-01-28, 09:40:

Am I the only one taking about the capacitor? Desolder that capacitor and check it for short.

Yeah, I see that burnt trace, I bet that capacitor did it, suspecting bios is fine. Replace cap and link and clean it up and maybe you are good to go?

There are two traces leading away from the burnt resistor. The trace leading to the capacitor is fine while the one leading to the EEPROM socket is burnt. Because of that I would suspect the short to be caused by the EEPROM, not the capacitor, even though you are right in that old electrolytics are never not suspect. 😅
The grime is probably burnt resistor and solder mask.

Geofand26 wrote on 2022-01-28, 09:40:

Thanks for the answers. I cant troubleshoot any further for now so after a few hours i will write back with results. You helped me more than most repair shops which just tell me "its too old so i wont even diagnose it" so again thank you so much!

Fingers crossed, hope you get it fixed! 😀

This is the one I suspect

Sphere478 wrote on 2022-01-28, 10:13:

Doornkaat wrote on 2022-01-28, 09:45:

There are two traces leading away from the burnt resistor. The trace leading to the capacitor is fine while the one leading to t […]
Show full quote

Sphere478 wrote on 2022-01-28, 09:40:

Am I the only one taking about the capacitor? Desolder that capacitor and check it for short.

Yeah, I see that burnt trace, I bet that capacitor did it, suspecting bios is fine. Replace cap and link and clean it up and maybe you are good to go?

There are two traces leading away from the burnt resistor. The trace leading to the capacitor is fine while the one leading to the EEPROM socket is burnt. Because of that I would suspect the short to be caused by the EEPROM, not the capacitor, even though you are right in that old electrolytics are never not suspect. 😅
The grime is probably burnt resistor and solder mask.

Geofand26 wrote on 2022-01-28, 09:40:

Thanks for the answers. I cant troubleshoot any further for now so after a few hours i will write back with results. You helped me more than most repair shops which just tell me "its too old so i wont even diagnose it" so again thank you so much!

Fingers crossed, hope you get it fixed! 😀

This is the one I suspect

Looks great from above but needs to be removed to check its butt, sneaky caps like to leak from below.