If I remember correctly you have to press mute to write the settings to the TV's memory.

For the aspect ratio issue, it could be that your console is sending 5V to pin 8 on SCART which will force the TV in AV mode, but will set the TV to 16:9, normally it should be 12V to force the TV in 4:3 mode.. For that you can always isolate pin 8 to prevent this from happening.

Vynix wrote on 2022-08-29, 00:57:

If I remember correctly you have to press mute to write the settings to the TV's memory.

For the aspect ratio issue, it could be that your console is sending 5V to pin 8 on SCART which will force the TV in AV mode, but will set the TV to 16:9, normally it should be 12V to force the TV in 4:3 mode.. For that you can always isolate pin 8 to prevent this from happening.

Thanks for the reply, didn't work for me unfortunately. I've been trying service mode memory saving buttons from other Trinitron models too but to no avail so far. If anything else crosses your mind I'm all for trying it.

Changing to 4:3 is a simple button press away so it's not a problem, I always thought that removing the pin 8 would do that but also disable the AV automatically appearing on screen thus forcing me to press a button too anyway? It's not a big deal for me, now being forced to access Service Mode and exit it so I can use the TV with the correct settings is another matter

Yes by cutting pin 8 you'll lose the AV autoswitching function in the process, unless you modify the cable to send 12V at all times on pin 8..

The "mute to save" thing if I recall was on older Trinitrons (and possibly north American Trinitrons)... I don't know what settings get overwritten by the set when you power cycle it but if I remember correctly some settings aren't saved, though I'm not sure if it this applies to standard TV, I know it's a thing on PVM-L2 series monitors, but I've got little to no idea about this particular TV.

What about not batch of different adjustments; instead, adjust one item then save?

This comes from my TV repair expertise. Yet even Sony is very good, but it is like Lada, design is horrible and their CRT also horrible. Because Sony like to be different and you had to repair their way and some designs likes to blow up forcing you to learn everything and replace one or two extra parts that also would be expensive to prevent future failing same way again.
And there was absolutely no way to turn off or electrically disable the unique design of Sony's automatic kine compensation which is good on paper but is killing the cathode emitters quickly.
I had a dead Sony LCD TV even there is absolutely no way to replace the LCD panel too much expense, or work a suitable LCD into it. LCD was made by Samsung for Sony use by the way.

Samsung LCD with LED backlight are really safe buy.

This reflects same way with former Sony TV we had once since new. Lasted 3 years then CRT used up and behaved same way, blanking out or blank. Got replaced with JVC TV 32" at Sears's warranty replacement which was much better and reliable, lasted well over 10 years with one CRT color balance adjustment midway through the life. Still working when we donated it.

Sony did made rear-projection 3LCD design facing 3 sides of prism cube with one side projecting out a image meant complex optical lens and mirrors using one HID lamp. The LCD panels is burning up and only way is to replace the "light box" again, $$$. Nobody took the bite. On one, I spent lot of time trying to recover by cleaning the opticals but these opticals were damaged from heat and dust, much more worse if from smoker household which corrodes the optical coating even more. The issue is actually the three tiny LCD panels dying from intense light heat radiation.

Oh, I forgot to mention, getting parts from Sony if supplier don't have one in stock guarantees 3 to 6 weeks wait. Even a blower fan! Customer was complaining about the noise even we listened eventually after 3 times in our shop, we ended up replacing that fan fixed it.

LED DLP was very good buy but was transitional era from CRT to LCD.

Cheers,

pentiumspeed wrote on 2022-08-29, 23:27:

What about not batch of different adjustments; instead, adjust one item then save?

Great suggestion, I did them all one by one, the TV seems to have memorized a few more settings, I'll keep trying to see if I can complete them all

So it appears that I have figured it out, I will leave it here in case someone else has this kind of problem with Trinitron TVs:

Following @pentiumspeed suggestion I applied the adjustments one by one, pressing MENU after finishing one parameter to return to the first Service Mode screen, and turning off the TV on its power switch. Repeat until each adjustment is done.

Like I said previously, this worked for some more adjustments that were not memorizing, but some remained undone. So this is what I found to make them fully memorized: because I used the Dreamcast version of the 240p suite for calibration, I had the habit of accessing the Service Mode with the console on, and didn't even think about doing otherwise. I entered Service Mode without any AV input active, only the TV, and did all the adjustments one by one again. This worked fully and it hasn't yet reverted from the settings I exactly set the TV to.

So now I turn on the TV, then the console, and the AV input is detected with the image taking 2/3 seconds longer to appear than before, but this time with all of the correct settings. One button press to change it to 4:3 ratio and I'm done. Thank you for all your help and replies as always, hope this helps someone else

Interesting. Almost like TV has/had/was supposed to have ability to store calibration per detected input mode? This is how it works in LCD monitors, you can calibrate every individual input frequency separately. But TVs usually only support one input frequency, so this still doesnt sound right 😀

rasz_pl wrote on 2022-09-01, 15:57:

Interesting. Almost like TV has/had/was supposed to have ability to store calibration per detected input mode? This is how it works in LCD monitors, you can calibrate every individual input frequency separately. But TVs usually only support one input frequency, so this still doesnt sound right 😀

I wouldn't know, that was the sequence by which I did these things. Also, the 16:9 ratio that RGB defaults to when I turn on the console has totally different color, brightness and sizing settings, and when I press the button to switch to 4:3 I have my configured settings

Oooh. You are not supposed to do this with video source like this. You need true NTSC signal like over the air or from a old school signal generator, not from the consoles or VCR or DVD players as they don't output active video areas properly. This is not what per service manual says, the service manuals requires you to have proper test signals used to do the proper calibrations.

Back to 2003 through 2010, the era of CRT (including rear projection) and plasma transitions to LCD era, I was a TV repair tech.
Also, I had a jig that generates output using a input video from NTSC generator image, that outputs different channels from 2 to 125 channels used to re-calibrate repaired integrated tuners unique to RCA tvs starting with CTC175 through CTC177 chassis. These integrated tuner is part of same motherboard and you are absolutely required to repair these if they fail and requires re-calibrated. Manually, one channel at a time on 3 sets of adjustments while TV is in service mode, that interacts with one channel above and below. Usually I go 2 or 3 times but after first initiation of all 125 channels first time, then do 2 times again back from channel 2 much less and quicker. Doing these tuner recalibrations takes about 1 hour in length on average.

RCA Integrated tuner looks like this. Unique to RCA only. Other models of RCA and other makers is separate tuner that you simply replace as a whole unit without adjusting.
https://www.repairfaq.org/sam/reppic/ctc175at.jpg

Only way to describe that jig is a bare board with metal shield can with 3 digit LED display and a simple DC external power supply to power it. This jig has a IR sensor that you use same RCA remote to set a channel frequency channel 2 thru 125. Input is NTSC signal from a signal generator via composite connector. Output is a RF signal that you plug into TV under repair.

Even computer has same problem with outputting video too if you try to play back videos that was made on 720p, VCR and DVD players, not 1080 too because 720p is a wrong one to use too. This is in between resolutions and is not used for this. Correct ones are: NTSC test signal, or video outputting 768 lines (most low end LCDs are this way) this is where why I needed this computer for this, and 1080 for high end TV and rear project TV and LCD, Plasmas usually are 768 or 1080 line panels. Most common on generic tv that is using cheap LCD panels is either 766 or odd lines.

You need true NTSC 525 line standard video test image, and grey scale video, again NTSC.

Back in the day, I had not found a signal generator for 1080i and p so I chose and built based on Asus Nvidia IGP motherboard with component video (the jacks red, green and blue) to calibrate newer TVs that supports these resolution. Cheaper too. I used test image that has grid with 5 circles and color bars and grey scale bars too.

The B & K test gears are garbage even back in the day. I had them and put them away.

Even I had to use Matrox G450 dual output card to calibrate CRT monitors too since the B&K was garbage and didn't output correct timings.

Cheers,

pentiumspeed wrote on 2022-09-01, 23:02:

Oooh. You are not supposed to do this with video source like this. You need true NTSC signal like over the air or from a old school signal generator, not from the consoles or VCR or DVD players as they don't output active video areas properly.

I imagine that's why people use Artemio's 240p suite nowadays, right? That's what I used for the calibrations, seems very complete. It's a PAL TV with 50/60hz through RGB SCART

pentiumspeed wrote on 2022-09-01, 23:02:

Oooh. You are not supposed to do this with video source like this. You need true NTSC signal like over the air or from a old school signal generator, not from the consoles or VCR or DVD players as they don't output active video areas properly. This is not what per service manual says, the service manuals requires you to have proper test signals used to do the proper calibrations
Cheers,

Hello @pentiumspeed, sorry for bumping the thread but as you said you were a technician I thought I would ask. I got a Sony KV-14T1E PAL TV with a tilted image, so I put it with the screen down to open the TV, put it upright again and unscrewed the tension on the yoke to move it to the correct position. Screwed it back again and tested the TV, being satisfied with the results I put the TV with the screen down to reinsert the cover and close it for good.

When I finally put it upright again to give it a final test before putting it in its place, the TV had the image below, one single horizontal line within an all black screen. According to my research it's due to a vertical deflection problem, is this something I would be able to solve myself? I was very careful putting the cover back but clearly something changed. Thanks again for your time and help, much appreciated

Edit: gave a look at the board and found cold joints in the Vertical Deflection section. Resoldered them and solved the problem. Huge kudos to Sony for clearly sectioning and labelling their Trinitron main boards to give a fair chance to curious amateurs like me!