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386 Hard Drive Problem

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First post, by drewking12

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I have this 386 I picked up a while ago that I can't get working. It starts up and posts but I get a ton of errors as you can see from my photos. I put in a floppy of dos 6.22 and I can't get it to detect the hard drive no matter what. I have no idea about how to set the slave and master on these drives and would appreciate any help on this. There's a ton of jumpers in the computer including 2 that were on the drive itself.

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Reply 2 of 20, by drewking12

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In the bios I can't really change much. The system configuration setup leads to a screen that says BIOS Setup Utility and I can't change anything from there; the pc just beeps if I try to press any keys and I have to reset. And the fixed disk physical format doesn't work because it doesn't detect the drive in the first place.

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Reply 3 of 20, by Horun

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You have a Keyboard error and you need to connect a battery. The BIOS Setup page is missing lots of stuff that should be there.... like the Time and Date, floppy drive, etc

Hate posting a reply and then have to edit it because it made no sense 😁 First computer was an IBM 3270 workstation with CGA monitor. Stuff: https://archive.org/details/@horun

Reply 6 of 20, by douglar

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You might need to change the jumpers, but probably not.

You definitely need to configure the bios items like fixed disk 0.

It is strange that nothing is populating on that bios screen. That's not a sign of a healthy computer.

I would expect some values to show up on page 1.

Maybe you need to clear the CMOS or replace the Dallas pack.

Reply 7 of 20, by drewking12

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The problem is the jumpers aren't even in. I have 2 jumpers for the drive here I don't know if both go on or where I need to put them. I do not know if It is suppose to go on slave or master or the active led shown in the diagram. I can't do anything on the "BIOS setup utility" either because it just freezes and beeps if I try to do anything; forcing me to reset. Would buying a new DS12887A clock chip fix that?

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Reply 8 of 20, by Robin4

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Maybe the bios is corrupt in a small kind way. If it boots, it doesnt mean that the whole bios is corrupted. It also could be a part of it can be corrupted. Then it boots fine, but other options / setting wouldnt be working, or working as it should

The best thing to do it the swap out the RTC module.. Of place a modded version on it.. And see if at least the time and date are coming back on screen.

Like i know the parametres for the HDD is (AT Style at least) is always configured due parametres in the Type listing.

If the drive is detected good, then the HDD should work after fdisk and format.

Are you sure the HDD isnt stuck? What i always do with older drives.. Dont connect the interface cable, but only the power.. And warm up the drive for a few hours.

~ At least it can do black and white~

Reply 9 of 20, by Jo22

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I also do suspect the Dallas clock, like the other users do.

In the screen shot of the CMOS Setup, there's no time/date displayed.

Likely because the clock is not running, at all.
The battery is perhaps somewhat depleted, that both the SRAM and the Real-Time-Clock are literally dead.

Anyway, that's no big deal. The Dallas module is replaceable.
Just add a socket and either hack the existing module or get a new one.

Good luck! 🙂👍

"Time, it seems, doesn't flow. For some it's fast, for some it's slow.
In what to one race is no time at all, another race can rise and fall..." - The Minstrel

//My video channel//

Reply 11 of 20, by Horun

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The picture shows a DS12887A which is much newer than the motherboard so it has already been replaced once, and is a replacement for the DS1287A.
Your best best (because they are discontinued by Maxim) is to do the battery hack, if that does not restore the clock then you will need to search one out but be careful of the china sellers....
Last good batch I bought was from Quest Components and they currently have just 10 left at about ~$12 for one/ ~$9 each 2 or more (Mouser is out AFAIK), glad I bought 4 spares last year...
Added: Do not get anything but a DS12887A or DS12887A+. The DS12887, DS12c887A variants are not the same (114bytes vs 113 and other stuff)....
The A means you have a "clear CMOS" jumper on board.

Hate posting a reply and then have to edit it because it made no sense 😁 First computer was an IBM 3270 workstation with CGA monitor. Stuff: https://archive.org/details/@horun

Reply 15 of 20, by Horun

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drewking12 wrote on 2022-12-09, 03:59:

I already tried replacing the real time clock a while back. I got DS12887A but the original was DS1287A. It was on ebay and I think is was DOA so do I need to find exactly a DS1287A?

How long ago ? The 12877A is a newer exact replacement of the 1287A. If you bought it from some china source it is probably fake/dead on arrival (just MHO as do not trust them for anything like this).
When you first replaced the old 1287A did the 12887A work ok ? Are you sure you soldered it correctly ?

drewking12 wrote on 2022-12-09, 04:01:

First link see my comment on china based stuff. Other link: if you think a used 1996 Dallas will work, I disagree, bet the battery is dead but you could do the battery mod/hack.

Side comment: Where are you located ? If you notice most of us old farts at least are not afraid to give the country we reside, it helps so others can point to parts in same area.

Hate posting a reply and then have to edit it because it made no sense 😁 First computer was an IBM 3270 workstation with CGA monitor. Stuff: https://archive.org/details/@horun

Reply 16 of 20, by Jo22

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Personally, I've done the battery hack a few times and it worked just fine.

Tools I used: File, jigsaw

Coin cells are comparatively harmless, there's little current and not much liquid inside, as well.

So in case it's accidentally shorted or cracked when opening the Dallas module, it's not lethal.

Anyway, please be careful when doing the mod.

Please don't wire the new battery in parallel, better try to cut one of the legs if you can.

Also, please don't get confused by the pinout.
At least one of the battery pins is connected "internally", but it may looks like it goes to a pin on the underside.

Edit: Oh and here's a fun fact:
Coin cells have little current, but also a slow self-discharge.
So it might be well possible that a single coin cell outlives a 2x AA battery pack!

"Time, it seems, doesn't flow. For some it's fast, for some it's slow.
In what to one race is no time at all, another race can rise and fall..." - The Minstrel

//My video channel//

Reply 17 of 20, by drewking12

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Where is the clear cmos jumper on the mobo? Also I'm guessing hacking the battery myself will give me the best chances. Here is the original RTC it came with.

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