Most probably yes, they don't look too bad. But: you really need to remove ALL sockets, connectors and components around the area until you stop finding battery damage indications. Cleaning what's visible is not enough, some times the nastiest things are hidden. Then check the traces with a multimeter.

konc wrote on 2023-05-14, 08:25:

Most probably yes, they don't look too bad. But: you really need to remove ALL sockets, connectors and components around the area until you stop finding battery damage indications. Cleaning what's visible is not enough, some times the nastiest things are hidden. Then check the traces with a multimeter.

Thank you.
I have already cleaned the keyboard connector, but if it's not working i'm going to replace it, the power connector had a bit of corrosion but it came off easily.
The keyboard controller IC seems to hide some corrosion underneath, but i don't have the tools to extract it, and i'm afraid that if i use a screwdriver it will bend or break the legs of the controller, so i'm not going to remove it until i have the proper tool to safely remove it.
If those traces are dark but it's not flat (tried rubbing with a finger and it seems there's something) it means that copper has oxidized turns this dark color?
Or has the acid completely eaten the trace and what i feel is the "shape" of the trace that was left?
If oxidized, what can i use to make it shiny again?

The first MB can be safely booted?

Oh I just noticed the first board, there is nothing there.
I wouldn't bother with it yet, the other board needs a lot of work and is in a much more salvageable condition. Are these "before" or "after" photos? It seems like you need to literally desolder and remove everything, and I mean not just the chips but also the sockets, connectors and components. And then check tracks continuity with a multimeter, not with naked eye. I don't want to sound like an ass but if removing a chip is an issue, I wouldn't undertake the whole task on my own.

konc wrote on 2023-05-14, 09:37:

Oh I just noticed the first board, there is nothing there.
I wouldn't bother with it yet, the other board needs a lot of work and is in a much more salvageable condition. Are these "before" or "after" photos? It seems like you need to literally desolder and remove everything, and I mean not just the chips but also the sockets, connectors and components. And then check tracks continuity with a multimeter, not with naked eye. I don't want to sound like an ass but if removing a chip is an issue, I wouldn't undertake the whole task on my own.

Well, so i can use the first MB, because from the pics that i've found online, the first MB was supposed to have orange paint with a battery symbol, the paint came off leaving a copper plate, i was afraid that booting it up could cause shorts to the nearby components.
I had the doubt if i had to isolate the plate where the paint came off.
Anyway, i've carefully removed the keyboard IC with a flat screwdriver, and it has revealed that some of the socket pins (not the IC itself) are missing, i've checked if i broke them but there are no metal pins anywhere, so it means that the original "owner" broke them accidentally.
The IC socket had oxidized green pins all over.
The IC itself had some bent pins.
I cleaned the board some more, and it's looking a bit better.
Since i lack spare keyboard controller socket and i need to resolder a 2 pin header for the RST_SW that one pin was broken, i will send the board to a professional after cleaning the board some more.
I lack the skills to solder such things without causing permanent damage to the board.
I will, however, test the board before sending it.