Back in the early 1990's The upgrading and repair Mac book did mention replacing and improving the power supply with deflection circuits of these boards, on these compact Macs.

Cheers,

The classic and classic ii systems absolutely need both the analog and main logic boards done. They have some of the worst and leakiest caps of any of them. SE/30 needs the logic board done too, if I do indeed spy one near the bottom of your stack.
The logic boards on the SE30/Classic/ClassicII are surface-mount style caps, but they're really not nearly as bad as you probably think they are. I actually find them easier to do than through hole ones in many cases. I'd look up on how to replace them if I were you, the boards won't last long working at all with original caps, and that's if they work at all in their current state.

Also make sure you've pulled the PRAM batteries from all of them. Anything before the SE has them in a door on the back, SE and up has them installed on the logic board. None of the Compact Macs need a working battery to function, and the old ones leak catastrophically.

Unless you have a specific problem (video or psu voltage levels) then I would leave the analog board as is. Note they're also fairly prone to cracked solder joints.

As mentioned above, the SE/30 and later all in ones have a lot of issues with surface mount caps on the logic boards, those machines should be de facto recapped if you want to use it.

Otherwise there are a number of resources out there, a good start is jdw channel on youtube - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCQlrWbkbU-N-HddTe_Ydajw
And 68kmla.org

IMO here's how I'd take it on an analog board for each machine:

128k/512k/plus: Reflow all large solder joints, consider recapping, they're really starting to need it on some occasions. Not a must-do though.

SE/SE30: You can pretty safely leave them alone as drosse1meyer said. They're probably the most reliable, and rarely need AB caps (for now at least)

Classic/Classic II: Must recap. They leak practically 100% of the time. A guy recently opened up a NOS one and the caps had spilled all over the place, even though they had 0 hours. In addition, Classic/Classic II boards often need other components replaced too. They used a lot of low quality parts on those boards.

3lectr1c wrote on 2023-07-29, 01:41:

IMO here's how I'd take it on an analog board for each machine: […]
Show full quote

IMO here's how I'd take it on an analog board for each machine:

128k/512k/plus: Reflow all large solder joints, consider recapping, they're really starting to need it on some occasions. Not a must-do though.

SE/SE30: You can pretty safely leave them alone as drosse1meyer said. They're probably the most reliable, and rarely need AB caps (for now at least)

Classic/Classic II: Must recap. They leak practically 100% of the time. A guy recently opened up a NOS one and the caps had spilled all over the place, even though they had 0 hours. In addition, Classic/Classic II boards often need other components replaced too. They used a lot of low quality parts on those boards.

Wondering if I might be able to ask you about your opinion on caps in performa 500 series without going too off topic

Logic board is a must do on anything 68k made by Apple, early PPCs are needing it too, and rarely even in systems up to 2000 or so. And then of course shortly after the 2000s capacitor plague started... I just recap near about everything now when I get the chance that's from before 2000.

As for the analog boards, I don't know too too much about the reliability of them but I do think they're known to be "better" than the Classics and Color Classics (which need analog boards done often too). The main obstacle with the 5xx LCs/Performas is that the plastic is awful, getting it apart enough to recap the analog board will nearly always end up with something breaking. If it were my machine I'd do it, but I don't think they're a must do, yet.

That's just the analog board though - logic board on the 520/550/575/580 all need done.
I've got cap reference for most of the logic boards up on my website: https://macdat.net/cap_reference.html

Sphere478 wrote on 2023-07-29, 01:57:

3lectr1c wrote on 2023-07-29, 01:41:

IMO here's how I'd take it on an analog board for each machine: […]
Show full quote

IMO here's how I'd take it on an analog board for each machine:

128k/512k/plus: Reflow all large solder joints, consider recapping, they're really starting to need it on some occasions. Not a must-do though.

SE/SE30: You can pretty safely leave them alone as drosse1meyer said. They're probably the most reliable, and rarely need AB caps (for now at least)

Classic/Classic II: Must recap. They leak practically 100% of the time. A guy recently opened up a NOS one and the caps had spilled all over the place, even though they had 0 hours. In addition, Classic/Classic II boards often need other components replaced too. They used a lot of low quality parts on those boards.

Wondering if I might be able to ask you about your opinion on caps in performa 500 series without going too off topic

My 2c - I'd say that pretty much any logic board with SMC from that era should get a full recap. They are almost guaranteed to leak, many times from the bottom and not obvious.

The SE/30 fall into this category and should definitely be recapped, as they are highly sought after. On the plus side, there are many enthusiasts who have completely mapped out the board, so it should be fixable, even with major damage. There's also a reproduction project, the SE/30 reloaded, of course you have to provide all the components.

Earlier machines like the SE with axial caps can still be fine even today. I have two SEs with beautiful original logic boards which work flawlessly. Of course you should keep an eye on them, like any vintage electronics.

IIRC there's an issue with C1 on older macs:

https://cdn.hackaday.io/files/168100719199040 … classicmac2.pdf

Apple made a bad choice with not putting a proper film cap there.

Chris...