VOGONS


First post, by kotel

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Hi

I recently got this HP D530 SFF pc. After replacing 4 1000uf caps and checking the psu, i decided to turn it on. Was greeted with an screeching noise when turned on from mobo and 3 red LED blinks, followed by 4 red LED blinks, then 4 blinks forever. No beeps. Any ideas?
EDIT: I forgot to add that the board is still somewhat covered in fire extinguisher dust. Might that be the issue?

"Driving a tank is like a box of chocolates. You never know when you blow up"
- Someone from a tank game

Reply 1 of 13, by kotel

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Tested the board with an bequiet PSU but still same issue. After shorting ps_on with ground pins on the hp power supply, it turns on for a second then dies. Any ideas?

"Driving a tank is like a box of chocolates. You never know when you blow up"
- Someone from a tank game

Reply 3 of 13, by Ryccardo

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No experience with that model, but the "screeching noise" is some feature of the way too many under the name of "HP e-diagtools", its point is that you could call HP, stick your phone up to the PC Speaker, and have their software decode a more detailed error 😀

You should be able to force that sound on a working system by turning it on and hooding the power button - which AFAIK is the only legitimate reason to have that followed by no conventional beeps at all 😀 🙁

For whatever it's worth my VL400 does have a bicolor power LED, but the only thing the red is used for is to make yellow when you turn it on, it never becomes red or yellow at other times, including when making any sort of error sound…

Reply 4 of 13, by kotel

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Ryccardo wrote on 2024-05-15, 11:46:

No experience with that model, but the "screeching noise" is some feature of the way too many under the name of "HP e-diagtools", its point is that you could call HP, stick your phone up to the PC Speaker, and have their software decode a more detailed error 😀

Problem is the "screeching noise" is coming form the mainboard directly around the VRM arena, not from buzzer and speaker.

"Driving a tank is like a box of chocolates. You never know when you blow up"
- Someone from a tank game

Reply 5 of 13, by kotel

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The board is closer to working condition, but not quite yet. I can get it to turn on, but it emits weird sound, almost like an dried up capacitor trying to work and sand falling onto the ground. The CPU is stuck in reset. Any ideas?

"Driving a tank is like a box of chocolates. You never know when you blow up"
- Someone from a tank game

Reply 6 of 13, by wbahnassi

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I've heared screeching noise before, but it came from the PSU as a result of a short in the PSU, causing it to continuously power-cycle at high frequency (hence the noise). So probably there is a short somewhere on the mobo in your case.

Reply 7 of 13, by kotel

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wbahnassi wrote on 2024-07-08, 09:42:

I've heared screeching noise before, but it came from the PSU as a result of a short in the PSU, causing it to continuously power-cycle at high frequency (hence the noise). So probably there is a short somewhere on the mobo in your case.

Thanks for the reply. 5V rail has 15 ohms, so I think that is a short, but I have no idea where to start troubleshooting from here. This might be a little off topic, but do you using a tooth brush to get off the fire extinguisher dust with distilled water will cause any damage?

"Driving a tank is like a box of chocolates. You never know when you blow up"
- Someone from a tank game

Reply 8 of 13, by wbahnassi

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You can wash the entire mobo with dishwashing liquid and water, scrub it with a light brush, then rinse it very well then dry it very well (either under the sun for 2 days or with an air blower). This guy does it often:
https://youtu.be/XxYga5vVgZ0?t=12m59s

Reply 9 of 13, by momaka

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As was suggested earlier, first clean the board so there won't be any 2nd guesses as to whether the fire extiguisher compound or other contaminants are messing with the board.

2nd, post some pictures of the motherboard in question. I like to see what you are seeing. You said you replaced 4x 1000 uF caps - which caps? On the motherboard? If on the motherboard, there's a high chance there are more bad caps, even if they all look good. Same applies with the PSU. On that note, has the PSU been tested with another motherboard to verify its function? If not, that could be the culprit too. Dirty power can cause motherboard VRM circuits to misbehave (and make noise) in many strange ways. Likewise, bad caps on a motherboard can also do the same to make it seem as if the issue was with the PSU.

So in short, you basically have two pieces of hardware with questionable working status and you're asking if anyone can pinpoint an exact issue for you. Chances are slim, if any.

Reply 10 of 13, by kotel

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momaka wrote on 2024-07-11, 21:49:

As was suggested earlier, first clean the board so there won't be any 2nd guesses as to whether the fire extiguisher compound or other contaminants are messing with the board.

2nd, post some pictures of the motherboard in question. I like to see what you are seeing. You said you replaced 4x 1000 uF caps - which caps? On the motherboard? If on the motherboard, there's a high chance there are more bad caps, even if they all look good. Same applies with the PSU. On that note, has the PSU been tested with another motherboard to verify its function? If not, that could be the culprit too. Dirty power can cause motherboard VRM circuits to misbehave (and make noise) in many strange ways. Likewise, bad caps on a motherboard can also do the same to make it seem as if the issue was with the PSU.

So in short, you basically have two pieces of hardware with questionable working status and you're asking if anyone can pinpoint an exact issue for you. Chances are slim, if any.

Will post the pictures of the board after it dries out and see if there's any changes in behavior. I forgot to post that the PSU was shutting down after a second. Then it started to trip breakers, but after dismantling, the short was gone. Was worried that the 2 pin connector was something propriety, but it turns out it was fan control, so for now I'm putting it aside. For testing purposes I'm using an standard ATX PSU. The mainboard is ASUS P4SD rev 1.09, according to prints on it.

"Driving a tank is like a box of chocolates. You never know when you blow up"
- Someone from a tank game

Reply 11 of 13, by kotel

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The board dried off faster than I expected, but just to be safe I'll let it sit for a couple of days in the sun. Attaching pictures of it. I've replaced the 1000uF caps on the mainboard next to PCI slots and AGP.

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"Driving a tank is like a box of chocolates. You never know when you blow up"
- Someone from a tank game

Reply 12 of 13, by momaka

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Ah, the P4SD, I know that one pretty well. It was one of my first commercial recap jobs. I have an entire thread dedicated to it here:
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/troubleshooting … erboard-polymod

That said, you might want to further replace some of the caps on yours.
The CPU VRM low-side area looks good - I see all Panasonic FL electros and Sanyo SEPC polymers. All of these can stay and are good.
However, all of the Teapo caps need to go. The three 16V 1200 uF ones a little further from the CPU should be changed. Panasonic FM or FR or FS or Nichicon HW or HV or United Chemicon KZE or KZH or KZM or Rubycon ZL or ZLH or ZLK should all do the job fine. While at it, grab an extra one and fill-in that empty spot too. You can use either 1000 uF or 1200 uF or 1500 uF caps (@ 16V rating) - the board won't care.
I suspect the "whistling" noise you're hearing is from the NB VRM filter caps. That would be, IIRC, rail "F" on my cap map on the BCN drawing I posted. It's comprised of two Teapo 6.3V 1000 uF caps close (under) the 4-pin 12V CPU connector shown on your picture here.
It looks like you also have two Nichicon HM series capacitors on the Vdimm (RAM supply) rail. This one is labeled "C" on my diagram. It's in parallel with the Rubycon MBZ 6.3V 3300 uF cap below them, so even if they are bad, the board can still typically "limp" with that.... but it's recommended you replace those two Nichicon HM caps if they have a date code with a range of H01xx through H05xx. They often go bad, but don't always show it.

Lastly, I'm assuming you removed the Northbridge heatsink just for when you were washing the board and didn't try running the board like this. Granted the i865 is a pretty tough chipset, but you still need to run it with its proper heatsink nonetheless.

Reply 13 of 13, by rasz_pl

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kotel wrote on 2024-07-08, 10:42:

5V rail has 15 ohms, so I think that is a short

https://www.calculator.net/ohms-law-calculator.html

P4 HP from right in the middle of capacitor plague means you replace ALL caps (if you for some reason decide not to throw it away immediately), not just the ones that look bad

Open Source AT&T Globalyst/NCR/FIC 486-GAC-2 proprietary Cache Module reproduction