It actually is very difficult to get an Intel MB with Intel WiFi and Ethernet in many markets, because Realtek and Broadcom dominate the mid-range budget/cheapo part market that most boards draw from, but the latest Intel stuff is very much available in the high-end boards and many AMD boards use Intel instead of Realtek and Broadcom, which is a bit bizarre in itself.

Intel-branded SSDs are beginning to go on clearance sale prices, so if you're looking to buy some good SSD storage, keep an eye on the various online retail stores.

RetroGamer4Ever wrote on 2022-12-07, 04:16:

and many AMD boards use Intel instead of Realtek and Broadcom, which is a bit bizarre in itself.

D101GGC for the lulz, intel board for intel CPU with ATI chipset.

I did some cable management repairs on my main desktop since it wasn't enough and too much clutter. I'm going to send the ASUS X570-E board to ASUS to get it looked at and repaired since the board isn't working at all.

Fortunately, it has a warranty on it (thank goodness).

Today I set up a capture system for recording game footage. This was a lot more complicated than I thought as it seems my AMD 3700X and ASUS Prime x470 Pro had run out of PCie lanes for a graphics card, 2 m.2 nvme drives and then adding the capture card.

So I thought I'd swap a PCIe m.2 drive for a SATA one but it turned out I didn't have a SATA one so I made a "spare" PC for capturing and the fastest spare parts I have is a 4770K on an itx motherboard. The capture card use up the sole PCie slot and it turned out your graphics card does stuff when capturing and the integrated graphics are woefully inadequate.

So I swapped the capture card back into my main PC and just dumped one of the m2 drives and swapped in a normal sata connected HDD.

And then it was all working except footage I captured had black flickering using the Elgato software so I was swapping HDMI cables and swapped out the project I was capturing GPU and fiddled with bitrate but it turned out that the Elgato software is just crap because OBS doesn't have any flickering.

So now I'm having a beer.

I finally got around to fixing the noisy digital audio on my GeForce card. Turns out that the GeForce Experience installer wasn't updating the HD Audio driver and hadn't done so for a long time because it wasn't registering that I had the HD Audio driver installed, so I had to delete the HD Audio device in Windows - deleting the device driver, too - and install the latest Nvidia drivers from the separate install package, not trusting the GeForce Experience Installer, which was only updating the Graphics Driver.

I thought I had the right component to repair my GTX 660, but it died once again.
Plugged in with 3 phases, the card works, I guess it's the driver chip connected to the 12V plug.

I hate being this ignorant on the subject, now I hzve to learn even more stuff 😀

RetroGamer4Ever wrote on 2022-12-11, 01:26:

I finally got around to fixing the noisy digital audio on my GeForce card. Turns out that the GeForce Experience installer wasn't updating the HD Audio driver and hadn't done so for a long time because it wasn't registering that I had the HD Audio driver installed, so I had to delete the HD Audio device in Windows - deleting the device driver, too - and install the latest Nvidia drivers from the separate install package, not trusting the GeForce Experience Installer, which was only updating the Graphics Driver.

Been having a similar battle in reverse, trying to delete digital audio devices so the analog would work. What with HDMI and onboard spdif tag teaming to keep audio away from my front panel headphone socket it was quite a pain in the ass. Finally lost trust in MS "just making it work" with windows standard drivers and downloaded realtek driver which gave me a control panel to force things with, like digital audio OFF goddamn it and don't pretend you can detect headphones plugged in or not because you are failing to, just send the squiggly electrons to the damn contacts and I'll take care of them.

Ok, my Gtx 660 died. Probably components failing on the mosfet side.
It was a great card with many old games, it allowed ultra on a lot of my favorites 🙁
Farewell card!

Upgraded to Windows 11 Pro after I upgraded the BIOS on my main gaming desktop's motherboard to the latest version since there was a glitch with the fTPM that it would stutter like crazy.

So far, so good and I'll test some games to see how they perform. I also connected my Pi-Hole/Kodi Chromebox CN60 and my Nintendo Switch (standard) to my ASUS VG27AQ 144Hz/165Hz 2K HDR (1440p) monitor along with my main desktop.

Of course, I gotta fix the drive activity light since it's reversed on the motherboard and upgrade the RAM to about 64-128GB once the price drops for everything and get me a Ryzen 9 5900X.

Your solution to get good wifi cards like Intel is to use same brand OEM for example. You search for HP wifi intel 5200 if your computer is HP. Lenovo for Lenovo. So on. And this does work.

I use wifi cards from business line notebooks.

I'm not interested in realtek chips, cheap and eats up the cpu cycles, slow.

Cheers,

Have spent the better part of two days trying to track down bullshit driver errors in Win11, initially thought it might be a bad ram stick but the memory has passed all tests with flying colours. So now its down to a bad driver that Win11 has installed at some point...such a royal pain in the arse since modern computers have 6 million fucking drivers and it could be any one of them.

My guess is one of the Intel Networking drivers, previous experience tells me its nearly always a shitty MS version of the Intel drivers fouling up the kernel.

If its not a networking driver then its possibly one of the ASUS bloatware hardware/framework drivers, I wouldn't even bother with the ASUS shit but the motherboard does require them to control the system fans and CPU features. (Also cant turn off the RGB shit without the ASUS bloatware)

Dont get me wrong I love my crazy modern PC but I really do wish we could get rid of the RGB shit, it should have always been an optional extra and not an integral part of the motherboard.

update - I think I have solved the problem .. a full reinstall of all Intel networking drivers with ASUS ones seems to have resolved the kernel conflicts.

RGB is usually an easy attack vector, too.

As for myself, I've been throwing bids os Surface Laptop 3s to try hackintoshing, dual booted with Slackware. I've got a promising one going so far.

I would prefer just getting a real Mac, but I can't afford one. Plus, I love the 3:2 aspect ratio and 1.54:1 plus notch isn't exactly ideal. 16:10 is even worse (though the M2 MBP would be my pick if I could).

Very much unfond of it being yet another amd64 machine, though.

Picked up a Sony Vaio Ivy Bridge i5 laptop for $20 to replace my dad's Dell Latitude E5510 1st gen i3. The 720p display is soooo much nicer, and each laptop had a 4gb stick of ram so the Sony is sitting at 8gb now.

Some of those sandy/ivy chipsets sayyyyy they'll only take 8GB but 16GB is working great on my wife's i5-3337u Gateway, think that's HM70, got another one I've got the 8GB DDR3L modules for but haven't got around to it yet. .. mainly because it needs a full dissassemble, clean, dust, repaste, SSD install, HDD relocate workup too.

With all my time getting sunk in a car search the last while, my stack dumped, so have been reading up my notes and posts today to figure out where the hell I was at.

Got the VLANs on my Pi-Hole to not communicate with each other and only have them access the Internet. I also cleared the configuration on the Cisco Catalyst 3750-E PoE switch since it had some items on there. My next step for the switch is to measure the amperage of the switch without PoE enabled to see if I can use it in my home office setup.

I replaced the failed SSD in an Asus P5K Deluxe WIFI-AP / Xeon E5450 setup + 8GB RAM + GeForce GTX 1050 that I had given to friends a few years ago .

Mostly 15-year old machine gets a new 20$ SSD and keeps on chugging along .

EDIT : I also replaced some CPU fans. I guess the 20$ new SSD and the fact that it runs Windows 10 make this a "modern" activity".

I guess because Intel hasn't done a ground up new architecture for desktop and Core is still with us, everything from Conroe up feels kinda current still. While on the AMD side, K8/9/10 of similar age as conroe thru yorkfield etc, has been succeeded by bulldozer/piledriver and zen and feels a bit more retro, it's weird. Though I still feel like I ought to keep Phenom and later in here, and only the older 775 stuff is just about tolerated in general.

Anyhoo, might be sticking my E5430 in a P5K3 deluxe wifi-ap, but it seems to have a lower ceiling than a P5N SLI I've also got.

Not really, C2D was way low compared to sandy bridge and later. To notice increase in performance you have to increase cores, next generation architectures and single core and all core turbo frequency. You notice these most when you are in upper end of i5 and i7, eventually both i7 and i9. If yo keep drifting from C2Q to i3 or low end i5 for example, the performance benefit is less.

But for vintage computing, E8600 and like and sandy bridge i7-2600/2700K and ivy bridge i7, high end ivy bridge i5 are excellent for XP.

By the way P5K series supports E8600, which I have done before on my P5K in past. For top of the line: xeon x5470 plus little sticker and bios modded due to excellent price ratio. Extreme C2Q CPUs are too expensive.

Cheers,

Got the newly acquired Cisco Catalyst 3750-E PoE 48 switch setup by looking at the old configuration to make sure I had entered everything correctly and I was too far off at first and corrected it by looking at the commands I entered on the old 2950.