VOGONS


Reply 22 of 29, by cyclone3d

User metadata
Rank l33t++
Rank
l33t++

You really should just build a retro rig. Get an MT-32 to hook up to the IPC-T as well.

Both of those cards you have fetch way more money than I am willing to spend on single cards.

If you really want the external SC55, then sell those and get what you want.

For the prices those cards sell for you could build a whole retro rig, get your SC-55, and probably still have a decent amount left over.

Yamaha YMF modified setupds and drivers
Yamaha XG resource repository - updated November 27, 2018
Yamaha YMF7x4 Guide
AW744L II - YMF744 - AOpen Cobra Sound Card - Install SB-Link Header

Reply 23 of 29, by MarcV

User metadata
Rank Newbie
Rank
Newbie

In the mean time I also got me a nice Roland D-50 synthesizer at a very good price and in a very good condition. It's actually a bit silly I got this because I don't even play keyboard. But I wanted it because sound-wise it's closely related to the MT32. And having a synth is a kids dream to me. And of course, one is never to old to learn! 😉

...but I might be wrong...

Reply 24 of 29, by imi

User metadata
Rank l33t
Rank
l33t

heh, I know that feeling, I kind of really want a keyboard again to play around with midi stuff, even though I probably haven't played in 20 years... and no I couldn't really play back then either, it was a Yamaha PSR 200, recently gave it away to my nephews, now I'd rather have a smaller one though.

Reply 26 of 29, by MikeB72

User metadata
Rank Newbie
Rank
Newbie

IF you ever want to try feeding the SCC-1 separately:
I did once (7 years ago) feed my card using a PSU+old 486 DX-100 motherborad (not even with a CPU attached 😊 ).
It ran fine (used it connected to a Kawai K1).

I then checked how I could feed the SCC-1 directly and found some info on different forums, among which one guy who actually did it.
Here is what I remember:
* Only 2 connections are used to feed the card: GND and +5V.
* There is one connection on the board acting like a reset switch. It should be sent a reset signal on startup for the board to operate ok.

And as I saw your topic here I checked for the MPU-401 "Technical reference manual" which was originally sold separately but can be found on ManualslibDotCom.
In there you can find a circuit diagram that should match the SCC-1.

And here: https://old.pinouts.ru/Slots/ISA_pinout.shtml is the pinout for the ISA standard (SCC-1 uses only A & B pins since it is an 8-bit card).
+5v, GND and reset are all on B-side connectors (soldering side of the board).

I guess the main challenge will be to find a stable enough +5v power source.

I will give this a try one day but this project is far on my list...
I hope this still helps.

Reply 27 of 29, by SuperDeadite

User metadata
Rank Member
Rank
Member

PSU should be simple. Just get a standard JAMMA arcade PSU. Simple screw terminals, adjustable 5v so you dont overdo it. And enough juice to run basically anything. Most will also have a -5v if you need it for future projects.

Modules: CM-64, CM-500, SC-55MkII, SC-88 Pro, SY22, TG100, MU2000EX, PLG100-SG, PLG150-DR, PLG150-AN, SG01k, NS5R, GZ-50M, SN-U110-07, SN-U110-10, Pocket Studio 5, DreamBlaster S2, X2, McFly, E-Wave, QWave, CrystalBlaster C2