Surface mount capacitor for filtering. White line means it has a +/- polarity. The card still works but it is not noise filtered to spec. It's large for a SMD so it's easier to desolder and swap. I'm not sure about the code on it.

C21 in the photo looks like a tantalum capacitor - tantalums have the positive side marked with a stripe like that one does.
The "10-16" might mean 10uF 16V, but that's just an assumption.
You can use a higher voltage rating but generally you should try to keep the capacitance value the same.

what you are missing is a 10μF 16v electrolytic capacitor

Just realized I have one of these cards. C22 is indeed the same as what you showed in the picture, it's a tantalum cap marked "10-16" (presumably 10uF 16V) along with a manufacturer logo and series.
There are different standard physical sizes for these things. Try to get a careful measurement of the dimensions before ordering. If you end up with the wrong size it could be difficult to solder it on.

I am not so sure this is a tantalum capacitor - it really looks like a normal old-style electrolytic smd one
I have a couple Riva128 cards and both use eletrolytics on this location, infact I have the non-DELL STB version that you can see here: http://www.vgamuseum.info/index.php/component … nvidia-riva-128

It shouldn't matter though what type is used at this position ...

The STB you linked is a different board design than this model. Electrolytic caps have the electrolyte in a metal can, and their stripes are almost always on the negative side.
An electrolytic might work fine though. If the OP has one handy (possibly on a junk board), that might be the easiest solution.
Since the card is working without it, I guess it's not real critical.

I've attached a scan of this model (cropped to minimize the file size), and a closeup of capacitor C22. It's the same as C20, C21, and C25. The caps on my card are marked "K3" instead of "JN" but that's probably just a date code or something along those lines.

Then again you could buy another card for $5 and be finished.

@shamino
Just for the shake of discussion it is the normal in this type of plastic package (and there were electrolytic caps using this plastic package in the 90s and early 00s) that the stripe indicates the positive side, the capacitor might be tantalum/eletro/polymer/whatever but the positive is always marked like this, here is a recent example: https://www.mouser.lu/productdetail/panasonic … Det1OQvNxedMhI=

In the end It's just a decoupling cap so it doesn't matter that much - that's why the board works without one. Judging from the full-length retail board an electrolytic works, maybe the smaller DELL version uses the same - or maybe they ordered better quality boards with tantalums or maybe they just used whatever cap they found in this package 🤣
IMHO OP should just solder what he has at hand and call it a day 😎

Edit:
Maybe that 2 in the circle indicates what type the cap is , problem is that with almost all smd passives you have no indication of the manufacturer...
Again I am not implying you are wrong and I am correct - just discussing and presenting my thoughts on this since it's an interesting identification topic for me 😀

thanks all

i think i found a broken tnt card diamond. with caps that are orange with the same numbers 10 16

i will use the tnt for parts. i really want this card because it is an nvidia dinosaur

keropi wrote:

Maybe that 2 in the circle indicates what type the cap is , problem is that with almost all smd passives you have no indication of the manufacturer...
Again I am not implying you are wrong and I am correct - just discussing and presenting my thoughts on this since it's an interesting identification topic for me 😀

No problem. 😀 I've never seen a solid polymer electrolytic in that type of package before (not that I was aware, anyway), so that link is interesting.
I wonder if the "2" is some obscure manufacturer logo, but maybe it's a series indicator.