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First post, by Intel486dx33

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I have a few old PCI graphics cards that have gone bad.
It appears that the solder joints have failed.

I want to try to re-solder the chips on these cards ( RAM and GPU ).

What solder type and flux should I use ?

Or

Should I just try to re-flow the chips with lead solder flux ?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SRA-Low-Temperature- … ass!94536!US!-1

Video example:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QiIy3Oe2UGI

https://youtu.be/2Z7nCAxS2Rg?t=114

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5uiroWBkdFY

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Last edited by Intel486dx33 on 2018-08-26, 15:38. Edited 1 time in total.

Reply 3 of 7, by gdjacobs

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Yup. The other part of the technique involves pulling away from the heal of the pin, drawing the majority of the flux away on the solder tip. I use that for parts which aren't as wide.

All hail the Great Capacitor Brand Finder

Reply 4 of 7, by Intel486dx33

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Okay,
So I found these items for soldering.

Flux
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SRA-312-No-Clean-Flu … R4AAOSw6Spbdc0X

https://www.ebay.com/itm/SRA-312-No-Clean-Flu … iwAAOSwcqZbawHi

Solder
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Soldering-Wire-Weldi … 9kAAOSw0XFa3Z~R

Wick
https://www.ebay.com/itm/5FT-No-Clean-Desolde … ass!94536!US!-1

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1PC-3-5mm-1-5M-Desol … 5.c100005.m1851

Iron
https://www.ebay.com/itm/14-in1-60W-110V-Elec … EoAAOSw4RZbEloQ

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-14in1-30W-110V-E … wcAAOSwf1xal6t8

watchmaker loupe 10x
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LDG2HQ/ … IBMORGXH2KGRN46

usb microscope
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Microscope-Fl … =usb+microscope

Magnifier station
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01882K0OC/ref=sspa … _detail_3?psc=1

Magnifying lens head gear
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JUCYNOC/ref=sspa … _detail_10?th=1

Reply 5 of 7, by stamasd

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gdjacobs wrote:

60/40 fine gauge solder with drag soldering should work great

I actually recommend using 63/37 solder not 60/40. The 63/37 is an eutectic, meaning that not only it has a lower melting point, but it also has a very sharp transition liquid/solid with no semi-molten interval. I find that important especially for SMD work. I've had way more failures with 60/40 than with 63/37.

I/O, I/O,
It's off to disk I go,
With a bit and a byte
And a read and a write,
I/O, I/O

Reply 6 of 7, by Intel486dx33

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Yes, I am going to test all the capacitors, resistors, and diodes first and inspect the PCB and the traces for damage. If all is good I am going to re-flow the GPU with flux and drag solder the ram chips.

Last edited by Intel486dx33 on 2018-08-28, 07:21. Edited 1 time in total.

Reply 7 of 7, by gdjacobs

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stamasd wrote:
gdjacobs wrote:

60/40 fine gauge solder with drag soldering should work great

I actually recommend using 63/37 solder not 60/40. The 63/37 is an eutectic, meaning that not only it has a lower melting point, but it also has a very sharp transition liquid/solid with no semi-molten interval. I find that important especially for SMD work. I've had way more failures with 60/40 than with 63/37.

Fair enough, although I find the difference between the two to be negligible. I'm fairly picky about stabilizing parts as they're being worked on.

All hail the Great Capacitor Brand Finder