I have the leadtek winfast A400 series.
A short look to a review of the standard A400 and it seems it has the same layout than the EVGA model.

I am already at my parents home during chrismas, so i could make a measurement begin of next year.

That’s not the correct way to measure a diode

Put it on the diode setting and it will give you a voltage drop value depending on polarity (measure both ways, post results)

Can you clarify? I always thought that the value presented by the diode setting was just the resistance as a way to help you identify how closely is approaches a dead short. For example, my meter will beep on the diode setting at a very low resistance but still something higher than if I were to touch the two probes together. When it beeps, I then need to look at the meter and decide whether it's actually a short or just a result of the layout that it has a low resistance. I don't know the underlying layout of the board which is why I would like to reference a known working board to confirm if these values are normal.

I measured across the diodes and got a similar result: 76/83 and 4/4 (measuring both ways).

I get different readings on these dioes depending on how I set my meter to measure resistance. This is why I noted specifically that I set my meter to 2000 ohms max. It's also a garbage meter so all of my readings are very imprecise. I'm more interested in the reading or diode D501 and to see how close it is to 0 on another board.

Kahenraz wrote on 2021-12-27, 15:46:

Can you clarify? I always thought that the value presented by the diode setting was just the resistance as a way to help you identify how closely is approaches a dead short. For example, my meter will beep on the diode setting at a very low resistance but still something higher than if I were to touch the two probes together. When it beeps, I then need to look at the meter and decide whether it's actually a short or just a result of the layout that it has a low resistance. I don't know the underlying layout of the board which is why I would like to reference a known working board to confirm if these values are normal.

I measured across the diodes and got a similar result: 76/83 and 4/4 (measuring both ways).

I get different readings on these dioes depending on how I set my meter to measure resistance. This is why I noted specifically that I set my meter to 2000 ohms max. It's also a garbage meter so all of my readings are very imprecise. I'm more interested in the reading or diode D501 and to see how close it is to 0 on another board.

Different diode types will
Have different voltage drops

The meter will display the voltage drop value

Measuring the resistance isn’t useless but it isn’t the way or the primary way you should do it.

Just find all the resistors on that board and check their voltage drop if they all look like the same type and there are many of them and all read near the same they are probably all fine. If they all look the same and some read different those are probably bad

https://www.google.com/search?q=diode+voltage … mobile&ie=UTF-8

Your meter may use different voltages to measure resistance the diode only drops so many volts so at different voltages the percentage would be different. Like I said, reaistance is the wrong way to read a diode. You can note what it is though. And compare with others, but installed board components are likely also affecting the reading. it’s not a useless measurement just doesn’t tell us much.

For MSI NX6800, if I set the multimeter to 2kOhm, I'll measure this:

Ydee wrote on 2021-12-29, 10:04:

For MSI NX6800, if I set the multimeter to 2kOhm, I'll measure this:

Looks like it’s pretty similar to OP’s reading.

What do you get on the diode setting both polarities

I was hoping for something more useful. Thank you for measuring this for me.

I've already repaired several broken SMD capacitors on this card but it still refuses to output a display when powered on. I've stared at of for hours under a microscope but have been unable to late any other problems.

My electronics experience is limited so I don't know what else to do to investigate this further.

Kahenraz wrote on 2021-12-29, 11:45:

I was hoping for something more useful. Thank you for measuring this for me.

I've already repaired several broken SMD capacitors on this card but it still refuses to output a display when powered on. I've stared at of for hours under a microscope but have been unable to late any other problems.

My electronics experience is limited so I don't know what else to do to investigate this further.

Maybe broken solder balls on the gpu?

It's always possible. I want to exhaust every alternative as blasting the die with hot air would likely just destroy it.

Unfortunately, that's all I know how to help. If there's no visible damage, it's hard to find a fault.
I had 2 cards with artifacts where there was nothing to lose and after heating the airgun, FX5900XT ran without artifacts and worked, FX5700, on the other hand, had even more artifacts. So it's a lottery, and I think of the airgun as the ultimate option, when there's nothing left to lose. If it was a rarer piece, I'd probably try reball with the professionals, but 6800 isn't that rare.

Kahenraz wrote on 2021-12-29, 12:14:

It's always possible. I want to exhaust every alternative as blasting the die with hot air would likely just destroy it.

You have to regulate the temperature of the air that hits the die.

It’s definitely tricky, that’s no lie.

I have a liquid no-clean solder. I guess I could pour it down under the die as much as possible prior to reflowing it. I'm not ready for such a measure but I'm running out of options.

No way, to use that way using the solder paste, you would do that? 😀 Use plenty of flux.

Cheers,