GigAHerZ wrote on Today, 15:06:

Found these products with the help of AI - i asked for ingredients, searched what is locally available, and then described the i […]
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GigAHerZ wrote on Yesterday, 15:02:

...
I now need to go to find some things to weld back all other plastic clips that have broken off - the back case has nothing to hold on to. Thankfully i have all the broken pieces. Found some local products with the help of AI to actually weld and recreate ABS plastic. I hope i don't have to just glue the backside onto the monitor somehow...
...

Found these products with the help of AI - i asked for ingredients, searched what is locally available, and then described the ingredients of the products to the AI to confirm if these are the right tools for the job.

Just applied these products on some plastic pieces.
The yellow product is like water, but it makes the Compaq's plastic a bit smeary-pastey on the surface it was applied after 10-15 seconds. (I used cotton swab) Applied it to the both sides of the break.
Then i took the red bottle. This is thicker, like some rubber-glue. Applied a thin coat on one piece on the broken surface.
Then pushed the pieces together and as AI predicted, I could even see some plastic slightly bulging out as it was soft. (I hope I still am in the margin of error for the measurements 😀 )
Now i have to wait at least 24h before I could apply a second coat of the red one to build a bit more material on the pieces.
But so far it's promising - I've never had myself any chemistry that could "melt" the original plastics. I hope it works.

It would be amazing, if at last, i have some sort of procedure and approach to repairing plastics once and for all. I already have 2-part epoxy to create "hard rock, concrete" in places where i have room and don't need any flexibility. (Think of laptop's display hinge screw posts) I really-really hope i have found "the way" now for slightly flexible plastics.

In summary:
Yellow Arrow 901 - Used only initially to soften the original plastics.
Red Arrow 1108 - Used initially as well as later to build additional material. After the first steps, some tiny cracks may appear in plastic - these can also be filled with this 1108 after 24+h.

The original usage for those products is to "glue" together PVC piping for hot and cold water.

Well I hope the melting part did the trick because thanks to AI you're probably trying to rebuild ABS plastic with PVC with the other one, which might just flake off.

If you want to do it with ABS, normally you'd want to use acetone and methyl ethyl ketone, and make a filler with a grated lego brick or scrap drive covers, or odds and ends of ABS 3D printer filament grated up in MEK and left to melt and stirred up a lot. But this is also a significant fire hazard and risk of intoxication without good ventilation.

However, I didn't mention this before as you probably have brittle plastic from age and high stress and bend parts like clips will probably just break again, if not where you welded it, then somewhere near. So I thought you needed a better solution, or needed to brace with metal somewhere.

BitWrangler wrote on Today, 15:42:

Well I hope the melting part did the trick because thanks to AI you're probably trying to rebuild ABS plastic with PVC with the […]
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GigAHerZ wrote on Today, 15:06:

Found these products with the help of AI - i asked for ingredients, searched what is locally available, and then described the i […]
Show full quote

GigAHerZ wrote on Yesterday, 15:02:

...
I now need to go to find some things to weld back all other plastic clips that have broken off - the back case has nothing to hold on to. Thankfully i have all the broken pieces. Found some local products with the help of AI to actually weld and recreate ABS plastic. I hope i don't have to just glue the backside onto the monitor somehow...
...

Found these products with the help of AI - i asked for ingredients, searched what is locally available, and then described the ingredients of the products to the AI to confirm if these are the right tools for the job.

Just applied these products on some plastic pieces.
The yellow product is like water, but it makes the Compaq's plastic a bit smeary-pastey on the surface it was applied after 10-15 seconds. (I used cotton swab) Applied it to the both sides of the break.
Then i took the red bottle. This is thicker, like some rubber-glue. Applied a thin coat on one piece on the broken surface.
Then pushed the pieces together and as AI predicted, I could even see some plastic slightly bulging out as it was soft. (I hope I still am in the margin of error for the measurements 😀 )
Now i have to wait at least 24h before I could apply a second coat of the red one to build a bit more material on the pieces.
But so far it's promising - I've never had myself any chemistry that could "melt" the original plastics. I hope it works.

It would be amazing, if at last, i have some sort of procedure and approach to repairing plastics once and for all. I already have 2-part epoxy to create "hard rock, concrete" in places where i have room and don't need any flexibility. (Think of laptop's display hinge screw posts) I really-really hope i have found "the way" now for slightly flexible plastics.

In summary:
Yellow Arrow 901 - Used only initially to soften the original plastics.
Red Arrow 1108 - Used initially as well as later to build additional material. After the first steps, some tiny cracks may appear in plastic - these can also be filled with this 1108 after 24+h.

The original usage for those products is to "glue" together PVC piping for hot and cold water.

Well I hope the melting part did the trick because thanks to AI you're probably trying to rebuild ABS plastic with PVC with the other one, which might just flake off.

If you want to do it with ABS, normally you'd want to use acetone and methyl ethyl ketone, and make a filler with a grated lego brick or scrap drive covers, or odds and ends of ABS 3D printer filament grated up in MEK and left to melt and stirred up a lot. But this is also a significant fire hazard and risk of intoxication without good ventilation.

However, I didn't mention this before as you probably have brittle plastic from age and high stress and bend parts like clips will probably just break again, if not where you welded it, then somewhere near. So I thought you needed a better solution, or needed to brace with metal somewhere.

These products advertise themselves as suitable for PVC as well as ABS. The yellow one shouldn't even build anything, but just soften the existing ABS. (Which it seems to be very successful at)
The AI also suggested using lego brick shavings with these products if i would want to create more substantial amount of the material. But for amounts that are applied with the tip of toothpick, there is no need for that.
Adding some metal bars into the plastic or using some cotton threads along with the Arrow 1108 was also suggested by the AI. But for now, I was mostly interested in just some simple chemical solution that "welds" or "melts" stuff together. (I didn't want any glue-like solution)

Yep, old plastics is old plastics, unfortunately. I hope i can help it a little by making the clips stronger as a whole by adding additional layers on to them. We'll see. (I do currently like what I see, but it is very early yet... Let's see how it all goes back together in a few days)

Minutemanqvs wrote on Today, 15:41:

I also have a similarly artifacting radeon 9600 XT and with the new diagnostic tool developed by necroware and the fact that a friend has invested in some BGA soldering gear, this one might well come out of the "for parts" box.

There is a tool called R3MEMID has been available for a long time. Can be used with a 9600XT with ease, schematics of the card are also available.

tehsiggi wrote on Today, 17:59:

Minutemanqvs wrote on Today, 15:41:

I also have a similarly artifacting radeon 9600 XT and with the new diagnostic tool developed by necroware and the fact that a friend has invested in some BGA soldering gear, this one might well come out of the "for parts" box.

There is a tool called R3MEMID has been available for a long time. Can be used with a 9600XT with ease, schematics of the card are also available.

Yes I have seen the thread on VGA Repair report collection but as I have other similar cards I never took the time to check it in detail. And soldering BGA was a no-go until recently.

I was debugging some code on my 286. It's funny how you can totally forget to load a segment register before accessing some variables and the code will still mostly work, with the occasional bizarre failure. The MS-DOS editor was starting to annoy me, as it only allows 80x25 or 80x50 and I'm not thrilled with either screen mode. I did a search online, just wondering if there was a secret way to get different screen modes, and there's wikipedia telling me that EDIT has a hex view mode. WTF, really!? No, it doesn't seem to be true. The wiki article is pretty bad overall. Maybe it's LLM slop.

My 286 has a WD90C00 VGA card, and modes 0x1C and 0x1D are larger text modes (looks like 132x25 and 132x50) but if I set one of these EDIT just switches back to 80 columns. It would be nice to see an editor with a hacked VGA text mode, perhaps 720x480 with the 8x14 EGA font, yielding 90 columns and 34 rows.

bakemono wrote on 42 minutes ago:

My 286 has a WD90C00 VGA card, and modes 0x1C and 0x1D are larger text modes (looks like 132x25 and 132x50) but if I set one of these EDIT just switches back to 80 columns. It would be nice to see an editor with a hacked VGA text mode, perhaps 720x480 with the 8x14 EGA font, yielding 90 columns and 34 rows.

My understanding is that EDIT uses the text mode the system is currently in when it starts. To get EDIT into a higher resolution do:

1MODE CON: COLS=80 LINES=43

Or

1MODE CON: COLS=80 LINES=50

To switch into either 43 or 50 lines. You need to have ANSI.SYS loaded on boot.

To switch back to normal text mode use:

1MODE CON: COLS=80 LINES=25