First post, by snorg
Hello,
I've recently acquired a computer which needs 230v AC, can anyone recommend a good brand voltage converter to use with systems that require 230V?
Thanks in advance.
Hello,
I've recently acquired a computer which needs 230v AC, can anyone recommend a good brand voltage converter to use with systems that require 230V?
Thanks in advance.
Hi snorg,
I sadly don't know a specific brand or model, best I can do is giving a general advice:
Make sure the voltage converter says it is "computer compatible" (or compatible with switching PSUs).
The newer converters often have a label on the box, if they do.
If you're unsure, you can use an older one with a real transformer inside (often a heavy metal box with a handle).
In that case, check the maxium ratings. Transformers *usually* provide true sine waves (no sawtooth),
but perhaps can handle less power than an equal modern voltage converter.
They are also not as "smart" as modern converters, which means the output voltage depends on the input voltage.
Anyway, I'm just a layman here. I'm from Europe, so I do use the exact opposite kind of voltage converter.. 😅
So before you make a decision, please verify what I said. Maybe another kind forum member can give some tips, too.
"Time, it seems, doesn't flow. For some it's fast, for some it's slow.
In what to one race is no time at all, another race can rise and fall..." - The Minstrel
//My video channel//
wrote:Hi snorg, I sadly don't know a specific brand or model, best I can do is giving a general advice: Make sure the voltage converte […]
Hi snorg,
I sadly don't know a specific brand or model, best I can do is giving a general advice:
Make sure the voltage converter says it is "computer compatible" (or compatible with switching PSUs).
The newer converters often have a label on the box, if they do.If you're unsure, you can use an older one with a real transformer inside (often a heavy metal box with a handle).
In that case, check the maxium ratings. Transformers *usually* provide true sine waves (no sawtooth),
but perhaps can handle less power than an equal modern voltage converter.
They are also not as "smart" as modern converters, which means the output voltage depends on the input voltage.Anyway, I'm just a layman here. I'm from Europe, so I do use the exact opposite kind of voltage converter.. 😅
So before you make a decision, please verify what I said. Maybe another kind forum member can give some tips, too.
This is a German Amiga, I would need it to step up from 110 volts to 230. Most of the ones I see will only do 110 to 220 or 240V, but I haven't found one rated for 230v specifically. Should that be ok to use?
I recommend modifying or replacing the PSU on your Amiga instead, since it's a bog standard switching PSU with typical computer output voltages (±5/±12V) it should be an easy procedure if you're familiar with electronics. My other preferrred option would be to use one of the 240V outlets that should be already present in your house (the ones for high power appliances like air conditioners, stoves and tumble dryers, wired between both 120V phases). The only problem I see is that said outlet(s) might not be in a convenient location for your retrocomputing needs, but if you intend to use European equipment on a regular basis it might make sense to get one installed close to where you'd need it.
What about just replacing the Euro voltage PSU with a US voltage PSU? Or will that blow up the poor Amiga?
If its an Amiga with an external power brick, just swap out the brick for a 120VAC model. If its a 500, the stock PS was pretty weak to begin with, many people upgraded to a higher wattage unit anyway. Regarding PAL/NTSC, the earlier models tended to be one or the other. The later models like the 1200 can switch between 50/60Hz video output.
wrote:This is a German Amiga, I would need it to step up from 110 volts to 230. Most of the ones I see will only do 110 to 220 or 240V, but I haven't found one rated for 230v specifically. Should that be ok to use?
"230" is just a reference number. 220 and 240 are both ok. I live in a country with 220V (reference) AC grid (who doesn't but USians? 🤣) and we consider upto 240 is normal. Everything I use rated for 220V AC for example, but according to my UPS, I have 236V at home. And no, nothing is blowing up in regular intervals 🤣
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wrote:Everything I use rated for 220V AC for example, but according to my UPS, I have 236V at home.
And no, nothing is blowing up in regular intervals 🤣
This may true for most equipment, but there are exceptions.. Phono equipment, for example.
My father's record player was rated for 220V. When I tried it after unboxing, magic smoke appeared.
As we found out, it was the electro motor who wasn't prepared for 250v yet. It was directly wired forthe old mains voltage.
That 30 volt difference apparently was enough tó kill it.
"Time, it seems, doesn't flow. For some it's fast, for some it's slow.
In what to one race is no time at all, another race can rise and fall..." - The Minstrel
//My video channel//
wrote:This may true for most equipment, but there are exceptions.. Phono equipment, for example. My father's record player was rated f […]
wrote:Everything I use rated for 220V AC for example, but according to my UPS, I have 236V at home.
And no, nothing is blowing up in regular intervals 🤣This may true for most equipment, but there are exceptions.. Phono equipment, for example.
My father's record player was rated for 220V. When I tried it after unboxing, magic smoke appeared.
As we found out, it was the electro motor who wasn't prepared for 250v yet. It was directly wired forthe old mains voltage.
That 30 volt difference apparently was enough tó kill it.
250 is not normal, up to 240 is normal 🤣
GA-6VTXE PIII 1.4+512MB
Geforce4 Ti 4200 64MB
Diamond Monster 3D 12MB SLI
SB AWE64 PNP+32MB
120GB IDE Samsung/80GB IDE Seagate/146GB SCSI Compaq/73GB SCSI IBM
Adaptec AHA29160
3com 3C905B-TX
Gotek+CF Reader
MSDOS 6.22+Win 3.11/95 OSR2.1/98SE/ME/2000