VOGONS


First post, by Deksor

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If you've seen my post about computer I just bought (Bought these (retro) hardware today), you know what I'm talking about.

So I just received this computer with a beautiful case

IMG_20190219_144026.jpg

but as you can see, the power button is missing ...

I don't think they took the time to manufacture these switches themselves, so I'm wondering if I can't just buy a new one and snap it in there ? Question is, where can I buy the proper rocker switch ?

Has anybody replaced this kind of switch before ?

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Reply 1 of 17, by dicky96

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Should be a fairly standard double pole single throw switch. Can you measure the hole where it fits - accurately

Reply 2 of 17, by Nprod

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Any standard DPST rocker switch will work, but i've mostly seen them in black or red, very rarely in grey.

Maybe these will fit, they are listed as "for aging equipment"... The brand and model is "Pronic R30-22C" and this is the only store that has them. They're on multiple chinese wholesale websites, but getting single pieces from there is a hassle.

Reply 3 of 17, by Deksor

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Well the previous owner have tried that, and he failed as you can see ^^

IMG_20190220_003638.jpg

I'm gonna measure that hole to see what could fit in there

@Nprod that switch looks close to the look I'm looking for, thanks !

Edit : hole is 2.5cm*2.5cm

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Reply 6 of 17, by dkarguth

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Sorry, I didn't realize I sent the exact same switch! 🤣
I guess it never hurts to have multiple sources.

"And remember, this fix is only temporary, unless it works." -Red Green

Reply 8 of 17, by Nprod

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Here are all the dimensions:

841440342_1108380330.jpg

Standard mounting hole is listed as 25.4x25.7, this might've been the very same model of switch that was in there from the factory.

Reply 11 of 17, by Deksor

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Well I think most cases use that one (I'll confirm that when I'll receive mine), this thread will be useful for anybody needing a new switch ^^
keep finding sources before they all die 😀

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Reply 12 of 17, by gdjacobs

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Make sure the switch is rated appropriately. Something like 250V would be good. Also, it's good to shrink wrap the spade connectors to prevent accidental arcing.

All hail the Great Capacitor Brand Finder

Reply 13 of 17, by dkarguth

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Thanks for the eBay link! I've been wanting to buy one of those grey switches since I built my 286 machine. The NOS case that I got came with this dorky green light up switch that kinda ruins the aesthetic in my opinion. I don't really need a lighted one, as there is already a power light on the indicator panel anyway. Honestly, I don't really need a power light at all, since you can hear the thing from across the house, 🤣

8aI6yEAl.jpg

"And remember, this fix is only temporary, unless it works." -Red Green

Reply 14 of 17, by Deksor

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gdjacobs wrote:

Make sure the switch is rated appropriately. Something like 250V would be good. Also, it's good to shrink wrap the spade connectors to prevent accidental arcing.

Well on the AliExpress photo, you can see it's rated to 10A/250V. Maybe Chinese manufacturers didn't care that much and lied, but I think for the usage we make, it doesn't matter too much if the switch can really support 3A instead of 10A. For the spade connector, my PSU has the necessary thing : transparent plastic-thingys that come over each each connector, preventing you, or anything else from touching the bare metal.

(Many years ago, I didn't know the AC current was getting into the switch and I zapped myself with this kind of switch where the plastic -thingy was a bit loose. Thankfully it only went through my finger 😵 )

Trying to identify old hardware ? Visit The retro web - Project's thread The Retro Web project - a stason.org/TH99 alternative

Reply 15 of 17, by gdjacobs

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Deksor wrote:

Well on the AliExpress photo, you can see it's rated to 10A/250V. Maybe Chinese manufacturers didn't care that much and lied, but I think for the usage we make, it doesn't matter too much if the switch can really support 3A instead of 10A.

Indeed, 3A should be fine. Fake/shoddy goods is another topic, of course. My concern was with the switches being rated for 24 or 32V DC, something like that.

Deksor wrote:

For the spade connector, my PSU has the necessary thing : transparent plastic-thingys that come over each each connector, preventing you, or anything else from touching the bare metal.

(Many years ago, I didn't know the AC current was getting into the switch and I zapped myself with this kind of switch where the plastic -thingy was a bit loose. Thankfully it only went through my finger 😵 )

Those booties are perfect, although household AC voltage running through you _is_ a way to stay warm in winter, I guess.

All hail the Great Capacitor Brand Finder

Reply 17 of 17, by Deksor

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Well I received the switch today :

IMG_20190309_154007.jpg

the old switch

IMG_20190309_154203.jpg

placing the new switch in place

IMG_20190309_154507.jpg

and it fits PERFECTLY 😁

IMG_20190309_154539.jpg

The case is finally complete 😀

IMG_20190309_154932.jpg

Thank you all for the help !

So indeed the switch was the correct one, and it doesn't feel like cheap crap either, it feels like any other switch really.

Trying to identify old hardware ? Visit The retro web - Project's thread The Retro Web project - a stason.org/TH99 alternative