VOGONS


Reply 20 of 29, by analog_programmer

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Nice. Keep up the good work on restoring the corroded traces. It will be interesting to see (in couple of pictures) the end result of this motherboard revival, hopefully in 100% working condition too 😉

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Reply 21 of 29, by BitWrangler

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Good patient work so far, looks like you'll get there in the end.

Following with interest as I have a project to start on a superficially similar board. Re: Bought these (retro) hardware today the one that's probably needing as much work as this one is the one that seems "better" at first glance of the pic. The other, I might get away with just a couple of patches and some cleaning, plus giving it a KBC and BIOS

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Reply 22 of 29, by Shponglefan

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Thank you both. 😀

For sanding things down, I'm using a Dremel polishing bit except without the Dremel. I find it works quite well by hand and gives me a lot more control than if it was spinning at 10,000 RPM. Progress will be slow but steady.

I also fixed a few broken traces so far. There is one that is still broken, but it only leads to an unpopulated pad so I'll probably leave it as is.

The attachment QDI 386-4N-D04A Trace Repair 2.jpg is no longer available
The attachment QDI 386-4N-D04A Trace Repair 3.jpg is no longer available

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Reply 23 of 29, by BitWrangler

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Those oldskool grey/gritty/slightly-sparkly ink erasers might be a good thing for this kind of work... used to be able to get them in a pen holder like regular pencil eraser... not seen any in a donkey's age though.

Unicorn herding operations are proceeding, but all the totes of hens teeth and barrels of rocking horse poop give them plenty of hiding spots.

Reply 24 of 29, by Nexxen

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Nice job. Cosmetically pleasing too. Thumb up!

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Reply 25 of 29, by BitWrangler

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Shponglefan wrote on 2024-11-26, 22:48:

There is one that is still broken, but it only leads to an unpopulated pad so I'll probably leave it as is.

There's another board I've got one on like that. Heads off to a KBC footprint that isn't populated because it's in the chipset, wondering if I leave it completely alone whether corrosion will keep creeping until it finds something that is more vital. On the other hand to dig it out uglifies a few inches of board, and erases route of traces that have a tiny chance of being needed if there's a keyboard fault that fries the internal KBC.


I went on a little side quest, wondering why the corrosion doesn't just stop when everything is chemically exhausted.... that's because it's a three way thing... I don't have the exact reaction equations, but you get the potassium hydroxide leaking from the battery, then this reacts with the copper and oxidises it, and is all used up, right? ... um no, while the copper grabs the oxygen, the potassium grabs carbon dioxide from the air and becomes potassium carbonate salt, crusty white stuff. And does it just sit there? No, as soon as there's enough humidity in the air, it grabs water out of it and regenerates itself as potassium hydroxide again, oxidises the nearest copper and cycle repeats... This is apparently why it seems to creep, it's just the hydroxide and carbonate doing a shuffle step down the "fresh copper" interface, with rapidity determined by cycles of humidity. Cheaply made nicads may possibly have trace amounts of hydroxide on when new which can get this going without a leak.

Remedy seems to be neutralisation and copious amounts of water washing to dilute it down to nothing.

In theory then, if it's gone under mask or between layers, it's the interface between good and bad you most need to attack, as that should be where the carbonate/hydroxide seesaw is teeter-tottering away.

Edit: For stuff you can't get to fixing soon enough, it seems then that just closing it up in a bag doesn't even work as the carbon dioxide and whatever water vapor was enclosed will keep cycling, it seems that you want to put a desiccant in the sealed bag with it, that grabs hold of all the water and stops the cycle that way. I do not know if rice holds onto water strongly enough to be effective, but it's the cheapest to get hold of. Also desiccant packs that have been around a while are probably loaded up. What you may have to do with either thing is stick it in a low oven for an hour to drive out whatever it has grabbed from just being around and use freshly "regenerated" desiccant and/or rice to pack up your boards waiting on repair with.

Unicorn herding operations are proceeding, but all the totes of hens teeth and barrels of rocking horse poop give them plenty of hiding spots.

Reply 27 of 29, by Shponglefan

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I think I'm done with cleaning and re-tinning various traces. I ultimately fixed six broken solder joints, although at least a couple were probably caused by my removal of the solder mask.

Next up will be doing some continuity testing to make sure nothing is bridged and that there are no more broken traces. Then onto solder masking.

The attachment QDI 386-4N-D04A Trace Repair top.jpg is no longer available
The attachment QDI 386-4N-D04A Trace Repair bottom.jpg is no longer available

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Reply 28 of 29, by BitWrangler

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Just wondering, were any of those resistor joints cracked? Just saw something in an ARRL data book about it being important to bend resistor leads in a right angle so there is horizontal and vertical allowance for thermal expansion and vibration relief, since if they're pulled down to the board with lead taking shortest path, a slant angle, like some of those on there look, it might cause the joints to crack from thermal cycling.

Unicorn herding operations are proceeding, but all the totes of hens teeth and barrels of rocking horse poop give them plenty of hiding spots.