boby wrote on 2025-06-06, 15:36:

Yes, I get what you say, and didn't say that I will replace all caps with one type, just asking what would happen. Trying to learn something here 😁

Ah, OK.
Well, if you use a capacitance value that is lower than what was there previously, then the filtering on that rail won't be as good anymore and you will get more noise on it - possibly to the point where it causes your system to crash. Really depends on how far you take it with the reduction and how sensitive the PSU filter circuit was to begin with. For some, up to 50% reduction may not cause issues - not outright anyways. But for some, even a drop larger than 20% can be problematic. So in short, lower capacitance = not desirable.
On the other hand, it's -OK- to use capacitors with higher capacitance than the original... within reason, of course. Generally speaking, and at least from my own experiments too, I can confirm that going 2-3x the capacitance will rarely cause problems - but note that this is ONLY in regards to the output filtering caps. When it comes to any small capacitors that have other functions, going up or down on the capacitance by more than 50% may become problematic (e.g. if the circuit has a 10 uF cap somewhere and a 22 uF cap is used, that may cause issues.)

boby wrote on 2025-06-06, 15:36:

The part for 5 VSB, I didn't get properly. How to find this cap? Why is it importand to be replaced if it look ok?

See upper-left corner of the PSU's PCB in this picture of yours:
download/file.php?id=220405&mode=view
The two small caps under the AC wires - one of them is likely the 5VSB start-up/run/critical cap, while the other is likely the main PS run cap.
These small caps can often go bad without bulging.
Alternatively said, a cap that is not bulging doesn't mean that it's still good - particularly the case with non-Japanese caps.
Brands like CEC (PCE-TUR/PCE-TUL) are generally relatively OK, though. But whenever I recap old PSUs, I always check these small caps anyways. Every once in a while, I do run into bad ones that don't show any exterior signs of being so.
If you don't have a cheap ESR meter to check them, then it's usually a good idea to replace some of these - or at least the ones that are critical, like the 5VSB startup cap in 2-transistor 5VSB circuits. Of course, only do that *IF* you have access to quality Japanese caps. Otherwise, I'd be more tempted to trust the original PCE-TUR/TUL caps in this PSU than no-name Amazon/online garbage.

momaka wrote on 2025-05-26, 23:20:

Those are only shitty power supplies that are NOT worth buying. Most of them have such terrible filtering (too few capacitors an […]
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boby wrote on 2025-05-25, 16:40:

As new power supply cost between 5 - 10 euros

Those are only shitty power supplies that are NOT worth buying.
Most of them have such terrible filtering (too few capacitors and/or poor design) that they are bound to make any PC glitch pretty badly.
Please don't do this. I (and I'm sure many others here) have gone through that back in the days. I still have (kept) the PSUs that did this and have re-worked them... but even they, they are still crappy PSUs not really worth using.

So please don't buy cheap PSUs like this.

boby wrote on 2025-05-25, 16:40:

Amazon have some cheep but not sure if there is less then 5 in a pack. Any suggestions?

Caps on Amazon are garbage - all of them. Even AliExpress is not that bad... and IME, AE *IS* pretty bad.
Ebay can be OK if you know which seller to buy from. But often times, the (good) ones that sell only a few caps will tend to be a little more pricey... though compared to Digikey and Mouser (especially in current times with US tarriffs) it's arguable which one is pricier.

boby wrote on 2025-05-25, 18:50:

Well, as I said this is very cheep PSU and very old btw. It was on some Pentium III PC. Even the old caps don't have any marking indicating that.

Can we see a picture of the whole PSU, please? (And hopefully a bit more clear/focused than the pictures of the caps you provided.)

The caps shown in your pictures are from CEC Holdings. "TUR"are the series, which are low impedance high ripple current type... though pretty entry level in that regard.
Good replacements for these would be -
from Nichicon: PS, PM, PJ, PW, PA, and HE series
from Rubycon: YXF, YXJ, YXH, and YXS series
from UCC (United Chemicon): LXZ, LXV, LXY, KY, and KYB series
from Panasonic: FC series only... FR, FM, and FS might be OK only for the 5VSB and for (any) 2200 uF caps on the 3.3V rail if it's mag-amp type

On ebay, if you find NOS (new old stock) Panasonic HFQ series, though would be fine too. AVOID Nichicon PR and PL along with UCC LXF series - those have known problems from leaking from the bottom.

If the above are not available to you or can't find them, then you can go / drop down to even general purpose (non-low-ESR) caps so long as they are from the reputable brands listed above - e.g. Rubycon PX, Nichicon VZ, UCC KMG, Panasonic EB or ECA or EE.

Since your PSU did use CEC caps, it might actually not be that terrible of a PSU. Of course, the pictures would be able to tell use more.
The reason I ask for pictures is because sometimes manufacturers cut corners and install fewer output caps or smaller output caps. In such cases, I increase either the capacitance or the number of caps on each rail if the board allows. For an old half-bridge PSU that will see more draw on its 5V rail, I usually go for at least 2x caps with 2200 uF on the 5V rail, while the 12V rail I aim for at least 1500 uF. The 3.3V rail will depend on what type of circuit it uses - for mag-amp, 2x 2200 uF is pretty standard, but for linear regulation 1x 1000 uF could be totally fine too. And finally, the 5VSB - 2x 1000 uF minimum or 1500 uF + 680 uF, depending on how the board has space.

Don't forget the small caps too. Some old PSUs (and also new cheapo ones) tend to use a 2-transistor self-oscillating design for the 5VSB. On this design, if a "critical" cap is used for the feedback component, this can sometimes cause the 5VSB to go very over-voltage over time if that cap fails, causing damage to the motherboard and any attached peripherals that use the 5VSB rail.

So with that said, replacing just a few caps on an old PSU is usually not a good idea.
It's also not a good idea to buy a new cheapo PSU either.
If you want a fairly decent and reliable retro PSU, the best approach is to do a full recap on the old PSU (except the big 200V ones - those almost never fail, even from the very cheapo brands)... and maybe even see if it's missing any filtering components due to being a budged one, then add those in too. I have a few PSUs like that and they have been running trouble-free for many years now (10+ on a number of them.)

Good to know - THX

And just out of curiosity, what would happen with wrong caps values (voltage, capacitance)? Can anything explode or burn? 🙂