Kahenraz wrote on 2021-09-08, 16:43:

Success! I was poking around at it today, checking various traces and it started working.
I don't have any more photos of the repair but here are some shots of it working. Of note, the slocket works fine with and without a capacitor on C58. I don't think it's needed though, when comparing it to other identical slockets on eBay.

Congrats !
It seems plausible that the cap at C58 was for some reason only needed in the original japanese design from which your Matrix version was derived. Here a (poor) photo:

Another thing I noticed is that the slockets on eBay which do not have the capacitor are also missing various other SMD capacitors inside the socket.

I don't know what other differences there are between revisions but it seems to be more than just the one capacitor.

Also of note is that the photo you provided also has a voltage regulator. I think this is needed for motherboards which can only regulate down to 1.8V like the early Pentium 2 boards.

Your version has indeed a lot more hardware inside the socket. Is it possible that they were just cutting costs in those other ones ? The ones with missing parts that I have seen photos of were produced between week 39 and 42 of 1999.
What year/week indication can you see on the rear left side of your slotket ?

And no, I don't think that these slotkets could do more than support communication between the cpu and the motherboard VRM.

PARKE wrote on 2021-09-09, 11:31:

What year/week indication can you see on the rear left side of your slotket ?

Here you go.

Kahenraz wrote on 2021-09-08, 16:43:

Have you got a slot - socket pinout to check continuity?

I do not. Can you link one?

Is it not possible to read this from the comparison of pinouts SECC and s.370?
SECC: http://ps-2.kev009.com/eprmhtml/eprma/f706.htm
s.370: https://images3.imgbox.com/07/61/cbBrTnUE_o.gif

That's one heck of an awesome repair job! Are you using a microscope or something to do these repairs because those repairs are also so tiny!
Your soldering skills must also be wayyy up there, everything is so straight.

I think he cheats and gets lego minifigs to do it for him, it's only as fiddly as laying bricks to them. 😉

Kidding of course, it is very tidy work, well done.

Tetrium wrote on 2021-09-11, 12:46:

Are you using a microscope or something to do these repairs because those repairs are also so tiny!

Yes! Any of the very close up photos were taken by holding my camera up to the lens of my microscope. I could never do a repair job like this without one. I love how it allows me to fix things that would otherwise have been impossible without it.

snufkin wrote on 2021-09-08, 17:29:

Sorry, no, I was only asking as I thought it might be useful for troubleshooting and that someone else might already have done the work to make up a table. If you hadn't already fixed it (dirty pin contact?), and such a table doesn't exist, then I might have had a go at making one. I guess it'd be a fairly tedious job of just going through the slot and socket pinouts and matching them up.

I wonder if it is even possible to make a table that works for every slotket out there.
But in case you want to have a go at it - attached a spreadsheet with on page 1 PPGA and FCPGA pinouts and on page 2 pinouts for Slot 1.

Kahenraz wrote on 2021-09-11, 13:57:

Tetrium wrote on 2021-09-11, 12:46:

Are you using a microscope or something to do these repairs because those repairs are also so tiny!

Yes! Any of the very close up photos were taken by holding my camera up to the lens of my microscope. I could never do a repair job like this without one. I love how it allows me to fix things that would otherwise have been impossible without it.

How do you have a steady hand for stuff like that? Because quite frankly your repair jobs are nothing short of amazing!
What microscope are you using for this?

I have this AmScope microscope with a WD165 0.5X attachment lens.

I wanted one for years but couldn't afford it; they are very expensive! The model I wanted has a double arm boom which is more stable and prevents tilting. A model with a camera mount would have been ideal; it's very difficult to snap a photo from the eyepiece. I watched for local sales until this one popped up and I got it for a fraction of the price. It doesn't have all the features I would have liked but the microscope part is still there.

The zoom lens I mentioned is needed to be able to see as far down as a circuit board laying on a desk. And the LED attachment is absolutely necessary to see anything at all.

There is of course more skill involved in soldering and the quality of equipment matters but you will be amazed at how well you will still improve instantly just by being able to SEE what you're doing. What the microscope does it allow you to react to tiny movements that you just can't see with the naked eye even with perfect coordination. This lets allows you to perform very fine movements that would otherwise be imperceptible.

There are also faults that can be seen with a microscope but not with the naked eye such as a cracked solder join and loose pins on fine pitch flat packs.

Amazing...

Kahenraz wrote on 2021-09-11, 16:43:

I have this AmScope microscope with a WD165 0.5X attachment lens. […]
Show full quote

I have this AmScope microscope with a WD165 0.5X attachment lens.

I wanted one for years but couldn't afford it; they are very expensive! The model I wanted has a double arm boom which is more stable and prevents tilting. A model with a camera mount would have been ideal; it's very difficult to snap a photo from the eyepiece. I watched for local sales until this one popped up and I got it for a fraction of the price. It doesn't have all the features I would have liked but the microscope part is still there.

The zoom lens I mentioned is needed to be able to see as far down as a circuit board laying on a desk. And the LED attachment is absolutely necessary to see anything at all.

There is of course more skill involved in soldering and the quality of equipment matters but you will be amazed at how well you will still improve instantly just by being able to SEE what you're doing. What the microscope does it allow you to react to tiny movements that you just can't see with the naked eye even with perfect coordination. This lets allows you to perform very fine movements that would otherwise be imperceptible.

There are also faults that can be seen with a microscope but not with the naked eye such as a cracked solder join and loose pins on fine pitch flat packs.

61Kg1w2mPHL._SL1500_eb919d67-df63-4152-b8b8-e0ca66222765_2048x2048.jpg

61lZqOinUjL._SL1200_48568f80-ec6e-4415-96f1-efa84b38d72d_2048x2048.jpg

That's really awesome!
And yes, I can imagine being able to see this clearly alone makes things a lot easier already 😀

PARKE wrote on 2021-09-11, 14:33:

snufkin wrote on 2021-09-08, 17:29:

Sorry, no, I was only asking as I thought it might be useful for troubleshooting and that someone else might already have done the work to make up a table. If you hadn't already fixed it (dirty pin contact?), and such a table doesn't exist, then I might have had a go at making one. I guess it'd be a fairly tedious job of just going through the slot and socket pinouts and matching them up.

I wonder if it is even possible to make a table that works for every slotket out there.
But in case you want to have a go at it - attached a spreadsheet with on page 1 PPGA and FCPGA pinouts and on page 2 pinouts for Slot 1.FCPGA.xls

No idea if this is either correct or useful, but I used index and match to give pin numbers that match pin names between the FCPGA socket and the Slot 1. It gets a few things sort of wrong/not helpful by putting all of the power and gnd pins on the same pin (it only finds the first match). It shows N/A if it doesn't find a matching pin name, and I don't have enough knowledge to edit by hand any that should be a match. I did edit a couple of the slot pin names to get them to match (some trailing spaces, some '0' for 'o'). I've added a column to the socket sheet, and another to the slot sheet, showing the matching pin on the other, to help if either going from socket to slot or slot to socket. If that makes sense.

[edit: actually attaching it might help]

The question is if it is useful when you try to find continuity (which was the original suggestion that lead to this exercise) between s370 pins and slot 1 teeth.
There is the difference of 370 pins versus 242 teeth plus there is the possibility that slotket manufacterers used on occasion different routes between certain pins and certain teeth.
On certain slotkets it is so that not all the teeth are connected to anything and that would make testing for continuity rather useless as far as I understand it ?
Here an example of a Lucky Star S9 for which they did not even bother to add all the teeth.

But maybe I am wrong, I'm no expert on this stuff.