Ozzuneoj wrote on 2021-01-27, 17:39:

This popped up the other day and I sent a couple offers. Seller finally responded today and accepted. I'm kind of surprised no one nabbed it at the normal price, but I'm guessing the not-very-descriptive title would be to blame there.

Gainward w32i.jpg

Based on my research, it should be a Gainward Tseng ET4000 W32i VLB, likely 2MB.

Looks like that to me. It's definitely a Gainward card. Hard to be 100% about the ram with such a low res pic, but it does look maxed out. I'd be interested in info such as clock speeds, etc, and a high res pic when you receive and test it.

debs3759 wrote on 2021-01-27, 18:30:

Ozzuneoj wrote on 2021-01-27, 17:39:

This popped up the other day and I sent a couple offers. Seller finally responded today and accepted. I'm kind of surprised no one nabbed it at the normal price, but I'm guessing the not-very-descriptive title would be to blame there.

Gainward w32i.jpg

Based on my research, it should be a Gainward Tseng ET4000 W32i VLB, likely 2MB.

Looks like that to me. It's definitely a Gainward card. Hard to be 100% about the ram with such a low res pic, but it does look maxed out. I'd be interested in info such as clock speeds, etc, and a high res pic when you receive and test it.

The seller did have some other pictures, and one showed the markings on the memory chips. Seems like it has V53C104HP45 chips in the sockets and V53C104HK45 chips on the board, which are 256Kx4bit chips, so it definitely has 2MB on it. Compared to my other VLB cards, the 45ns rated chips on this are among the fastest (some are 50, most are 60 or 70ns). My Hercules VL Bus Dynamite w32p has the same exact 45ns chips though.

Should be interesting!

Hopefully they don't ship it in a manila folder.

Got an old MX700 cordless mouse from Logitech, complete in box for some 8 bucks. Old and well used, the rubber coating on the plastic turned into gluey sticky mess, as well as the painted plastic was well worn away from sticky fingers. Well I decided to sand down all nasty surfaces with sandpaper which I had on hand. It turned out quite decently. Now I have a lovely large and comfortable mouse which Im gonna use for office work.

I had to do the same with my Razer Lachesis about 5 or 6 years ago, it's still going strong 😀

The plastic rubber stuff is nasty - the thinkpads use similar and I found that what can't be scraped off with a credit card can be dissolved with fresh 99% IPA on it, using a paper towel (don't use a nice towel, it will stain it forever)

Yeah, my MX500's "soft touch" coating turned sticky several years ago too. Isoproyl Alcohol and a paper towel took it all right off, like you said. Looked good as new!

I've been using that mouse for *18 years* and it is has only recently developed a double-click issue. I actually fixed this problem several years ago too by adding a touch of super glue into a divot that the tiny alps-switch button had worn into the plastic inside. I'd be surprised if it wasn't the same issue this time too. Those old switches seem to last forever. The newer ones are garbage though. Same brand name, but they aren't made the same. I have a small pile of 5-7 year old Logitech mice with defective\worn out Alps switches. Perfectly good mice, and not that hard to fix, but I haven't been able to get myself to dismantle vintage mice for decent switches.

Half of the dashboard of my car is coated in a soft touch finish. I'm frightened of the day it is starting to turn into glue. On the door panels it has already started... yuck.
This soft touch madness is just a mere micrometer behind touch controls when it comes to the most stupid decisions in car interior design...

blurks wrote on 2021-01-27, 22:12:

Half of the dashboard of my car is coated in a soft touch finish. I'm frightened of the day it is starting to turn into glue. On the door panels it has already started... yuck.
This soft touch madness is just a mere micrometer behind touch controls when it comes to the most stupid decisions in car interior design...

Be careful how you dress then 🤣 . I had to throw away two nice shirts thanks to the doorcard of a Autobianchi Y10.

canthearu wrote on 2021-01-12, 22:16:

but if the nforce 2 chipset was inherently unstable, motherboard manufacturers would have noticed.

it was a mix bag

Over 15 years ago the last 2 Socket A motherboards in my main system were Nforce 2 Ultra

the first one was a MSI k7n2 delta2 platinum paired with an Athlon XP 3000+ Barton 400Mhz + 2 x 256MB Supertalent DDR400 and a MSI RX9600XT-TD128. I could not get it stable in dual channel, no matter what i tried, it always bsod after between 15min and 1 hour.

The 2nd one was an Asus A7NX-E Deluxe, maybe one of the best motherboards for Socket A. It came with a dead memory bank but the 2nd one i recieved was rock solid with the same parts in the MSI. It had a sudden dead after 7 years, typical stuff with Nforce chipsets

looking back i wish a had kept the MSI KT880 Delta-FSR (VIA KT880 ultra), yeah it was slower (about 10%), but it never BSOD, not a single time

andrea wrote on 2021-01-27, 22:37:

blurks wrote on 2021-01-27, 22:12:

Half of the dashboard of my car is coated in a soft touch finish. I'm frightened of the day it is starting to turn into glue. On the door panels it has already started... yuck.
This soft touch madness is just a mere micrometer behind touch controls when it comes to the most stupid decisions in car interior design...

Be careful how you dress then 🤣 . I had to throw away two nice shirts thanks to the doorcard of a Autobianchi Y10.

I had to look that one up. IMHO, it looks like the fruit of an unholy union between an Innocenti Mini and a Yugo . 😉

Almost bought a MS Sidewinder 3D pro today but the throttle slide was broken, was in great shape except for that 🙁
Also saw a HP external USB CDROM from about 2001 but have no use for one.... nothing else good in the local markets here.

blurks wrote on 2021-01-27, 22:12:

This soft touch madness is just a mere micrometer behind touch controls when it comes to the most stupid decisions in car interior design...

Oh boy, don't even get me started on that...

I don't even like how buttons started replacing dials\levers 10+ years ago. My old car was an 06 and the heat\AC\FAN were all knobs. I just bought a 2010 from the same brand and it has knobs and *buttons* for those same functions. The buttons cycle through pictures on the screen, so you absolutely have to take your eyes off the road to make adjustments. In my old car, I rarely had to look. It was muscle memory. As little as I drive, I highly doubt I'll ever develop the muscle memory needed to press a couple buttons over and over to cycle through settings without looking.

I got this Pentium II 233MHz yesterday via ebay, a SL264.
It is passive cooled, but gets quite warm even if I only stay in the BIOS. I wonder if I need an additional case fan for it.

On many mainboards the CPU is constantly under 100% load while in BIOS.

subnet_zero wrote on 2021-01-28, 09:04:

I got this Pentium II 233MHz yesterday via ebay, a SL264.
It is passive cooled, but gets quite warm even if I only stay in the BIOS. I wonder if I need an additional case fan for it.

P2_233_SL264.jpg

These are not passively cooled. Likely it came from some machine which had additional fans (not directly on the CPU, but anyway).

HanJammer wrote on 2021-01-28, 09:43:

subnet_zero wrote on 2021-01-28, 09:04:

I got this Pentium II 233MHz yesterday via ebay, a SL264.
It is passive cooled, but gets quite warm even if I only stay in the BIOS. I wonder if I need an additional case fan for it.

P2_233_SL264.jpg

These are not passively cooled. Likely it came from some machine which had additional fans (not directly on the CPU, but anyway).

Good to know, it was unusual silent as I booted it up the the first time. Time to change this and threw the fans in.
BTW: The CPU is for this board: DCS/Commate/Tcommate P3-370A/370A-VP - some documentation - missing manual

Yes, you need a fan blowing air on it. It's a OEM CPU, it was sold to a manufacturer (Dell, HP, etc) only with heatsink, the manufacturer had to make sure they have a case fan blowing /sucking air on/out of the CPU. You can read a bit more here:
https://www.anandtech.com/show/27/3

Brand new Logitech Pilot Wheel mouse with original packaging! What a find 😀

RaverX wrote on 2021-01-28, 09:52:

Yes, you need a fan blowing air on it. It's a OEM CPU, it was sold to a manufacturer (Dell, HP, etc) only with heatsink, the manufacturer had to make sure they have a case fan blowing /sucking air on/out of the CPU. You can read a bit more here:
https://www.anandtech.com/show/27/3

Same here, I have a slot-1 P3 1Ghz that I think came out of a Compaq server. It's a huge heatsink (finned both sides), but it would have definitely had airflow from the chassis fans:

Nope. None of them have removable motherboard tray.

retro.bit wrote on 2021-01-27, 10:15:

winuser_pl wrote on 2020-12-23, 16:03:

While I've been in Poland I've bought these PC cases. These are brand new! Our local shop "ProLine" put huge discount on some "o […]
Show full quote

While I've been in Poland I've bought these PC cases. These are brand new! Our local shop "ProLine" put huge discount on some "outdated" products. These are brand new, packed in an original cartoon package. I'm stunned.
The price for 4 PC cases was ~ 47 USD.

Hi, do any of these PC cases have a removable motherboard tray? I would like to buy one of them and it is important to me.

I got a new controller today