Not quite, but almost same - maybe PSU monitoring circuit is FSP 3528 (instead 3529 on THN series) and some minor differences.

Mates, we’ve already been bragging about our P..Pi..Pin.. PSU`s. 😀
But no one has posted anything about this topic yet.
For example, I use my retrorig for a year
- Pentium 3S (30 W) + Radeon 9800 (60 W)~90W
- Athlon XP (60 W) + Radeon 9600 (30 W)~90W
- an early Pentium 4 motherboard~90W
with a modern power supply—it’s currently on sale; here’s the link.

Can you send the link again? It's missing in the post and I am intrigued.

So ‘no one’ 🙁

I opened up my Enermax 300W PSU out of curiosity. Capacitors seem to be fine, but I don't recognize their brand.

I guess the 5V rail is fine, as well.

CharlieFoxtrot wrote on Today, 05:11:

I don’t understand your long posts, where you sort of try to disagree with me, but then you agree with me. I mean, you don’t seem to trust those PSUs either, when you always inspect them and test them. Of course it goes without saying, that caps can and do fail without any visible signs and I’ve encountered countless of such capacitors. Also, caps that have been sitting unused for long periods of time can start to fail rapidly after they are re-energized as the chemistry has changed. Again, no external visible signs and they can even give proper in spec readings to your esr meter at first.

Anyways, you do you. Changing caps to these old PSUs is like a 30-60 min of extremely simple work and parts cost is probably 10€ at best, so I really don’t see a reason why I would want to use these old PSUs with capacitors that are absolutely nearing their end of life. Changing caps to motherboards of this era is generally much more time consuming due to multilayer PCBs.

You are welcome to do the opposite and plug whatever you like to your equipment. But to me it is a no brainer to spend few beans and a bit of time to get rid of the old unreliable caps while I would open and clean the PSU in any case and thus have a reliably working PSU for years to come.

I guess he's saying that you worry too much. 😀

And sure, if you have the skill, time and equipment to change capacitors to PSUs just to be sure even when it probably is unnecessary, sure, go for it. But not everybody has those.

Caesum wrote on Today, 15:16:

Can you send the link again? It's missing in the post and I am intrigued.

Everyone of us, including shevalier is looking for that link.

Mike_ wrote on Today, 16:31:

I opened up my Enermax 300W PSU out of curiosity. Capacitors seem to be fine, but I don't recognize their brand.

Does it say P CE-TUR or TUL? If so, the manufacturer is CEC International. It is Teapo/Capxon level stuff, that is they sometimes seem to last, sometimes not and are thus unreliable low quality junk. Very common brand with 2000s PSUs with Teapo, I always change both without thinking. At least many Seasonic PSUs are also often full of these. As quality brands wanted to save a buck, they opted these, Fuhjyy, Tayeh and bunch of other low quality trash and ruined their otherwise fine designs.

I guess he's saying that you worry too much. 😀

And sure, if you have the skill, time and equipment to change capacitors to PSUs just to be sure even when it probably is unnecessary, sure, go for it. But not everybody has those.

I sort of get it if you don’t have soldering iron (although I find it odd that in this hobby people don’t want to repair stuff), but if you do, changing caps to these PSUs is probably the easiest soldering you can do. And time? Isn’t this supposed to be a hobby, but you can’t spare half an hour or hour to repair your gear!? Well, I guess most of the time is spent on writing overly long forum posts 🤣

AlexZ wrote on Today, 16:37:

Caesum wrote on Today, 15:16:

Can you send the link again? It's missing in the post and I am intrigued.

Everyone of us, including shevalier is looking for that link.

If it’s the the Sеаsonic whith ‘Adamantium’ rating , or the ‘Anobtanium’ one – I’ll give it a miss.
1-2k$ is just too cool.

Mike_ wrote on Today, 16:31:

I guess the 5V rail is fine, as well. https://www.vogons.org/download/file.php?id=241009&mode=view […]
Show full quote

I guess the 5V rail is fine, as well.

https://www.cybenetics.com/attachs/52.pdf
page 34
If measurements are taken with no load, this does not indicate anything.
However, if ‘The output ripple and noise requirements listed in Table 4-6 shall be met throughout
the load ranges specified for the appropriate form factor and under all input voltage’, then the power supply unit is in excellent condition.

I also opened a Fortron 350W PSU and this thing is definitely not fine. I guess I'll just throw it away, as it's a pretty generic PSU to begin with.

CharlieFoxtrot wrote on Today, 17:10:

Does it say P CE-TUR or TUL? If so, the manufacturer is CEC International. It is Teapo/Capxon level stuff, that is they sometimes seem to last, sometimes not and are thus unreliable low quality junk. Very common brand with 2000s PSUs with Teapo, I always change both without thinking. At least many Seasonic PSUs are also often full of these. As quality brands wanted to save a buck, they opted these, Fuhjyy, Tayeh and bunch of other low quality trash and ruined their otherwise fine designs

Yes, it does seem to say P CE-TUR. I guess this one would be worth the effort to recap if needed, as Enermax was a quality brand at the time.

CharlieFoxtrot wrote on Today, 17:10:

I sort of get it if you don’t have soldering iron (although I find it odd that in this hobby people don’t want to repair stuff), but if you do, changing caps to these PSUs is probably the easiest soldering you can do. And time? Isn’t this supposed to be a hobby, but you can’t spare half an hour or hour to repair your gear!? Well, I guess most of the time is spent on writing overly long forum posts 🤣

Half an hour to hour sounds very optimistic to me. 😁 Also, while it's technically easier than recapping a motherboard, it's still AC equipment so I wouldn't recommend fixing it yourself to a beginner.

shevalier wrote on Today, 17:22:

https://www.cybenetics.com/attachs/52.pdf page 34 If measurements are taken with no load, this does not indicate anything. Howev […]
Show full quote

https://www.cybenetics.com/attachs/52.pdf
page 34
If measurements are taken with no load, this does not indicate anything.
However, if ‘The output ripple and noise requirements listed in Table 4-6 shall be met throughout
the load ranges specified for the appropriate form factor and under all input voltage’, then the power supply unit is in excellent condition.

I was using Gigabyte GA-7ZXE and Athlon XP 2200+ as load, so there was a load, but not one close to maximum.

Mike_ wrote on Today, 17:40:

Yes, it does seem to say P CE-TUR. I guess this one would be worth the effort to recap if needed, as Enermax was a quality brand at the time.

Yes, those are otherwise fine PSUs. I have few early 2000s Enermax PSUs in use and I can’t complain. Overall design and build quality, at least to me, feels very solid.

Half an hour to hour sound very optimistic to me. 😁 Also, while it's technically easier than recapping a motherboard,

In an hour, even a relatively beginner changes quite many capacitors. If you really are so tight on time with your hobby, then just change the main voltage rail filtering caps and leave all the smaller ones from the regulation and protection circuits with original caps. Your situation improves a lot as those are the caps that are most stressed and likely to go. The small caps around the PCB are most likely fine, just like in the motherboards as the current flow and heat generation is very low through them. There are roughly half a dozen or so of these large filter caps in these PSUs. That is not a lot.

it's still AC equipment so I wouldn't recommend fixing it yourself to a beginner.

Didn’t you guys say that I worry too much about mains equipment? If I remember correctly, someone said that mains voltage isn’t even actually high voltage and the other guy said that a fire in your PSU isn’t that big of a deal? So why so worry now? 😉

Stay on the secondary side and leave the stuff alone on the primary and I can’t see how your PSU can turn to more unsafe after you’ve removed your shitty old secondary caps from it and replaced them with new reliable ones. After the work, attach a load to the PSU, test it for a good while while you keep an eye on it. If there will be magic smoke escaping because you’ve screwed up something, it most likely happens in the first second you power the PSU on, but it doesn’t harm to run it for a some time under a load and grab a beer or coffee while doing so.

appiah4 wrote on Today, 11:58:

Mine is the ATX-400PNF, so not quite the same model. We will see..

Literally the same chassis with some very minor differences.

The weakest part is probably the shitty quality ball bearing fan.

Mike_ wrote on Today, 17:40:

I also opened a Fortron 350W PSU and this thing is definitely not fine. I guess I'll just throw it away, as it's a pretty generic PSU to begin with.

In the FSP on this platform, the supervisor is located on a small vertical board positioned perpendicular to the vertical board housing the PWM controller.
Under the fan control board
If the board with the supervisor is present, it’s an excellent PSU.
If not (no voltage monitoring, only general short-circuit protection based on maximum power), then it’s just so-so.
A good source of spare parts.

I was using Gigabyte GA-7ZXE and Athlon XP 2200+ as load, so there was a load, but not one close to maximum.

In that case, it’s in excellent condition, without a doubt.

I tried running my 400w FSP with just a hard drive attached and it started making high pitched squealing sounds like a dying rat...

Is it because the load was too low maybe? I was too scared to plug it into a real board to try it..