chrisNova777 wrote:

logistics + tayyare..
if either of you dont have real world experience with this motherboard i suggest u take a moment and review some of the things that people have said about it.. the reason people get the VL/I-486SV2GX4 is because of its build quality... the fact that it has a coin battery. zero corrosion damage... etc

It doesn't matter how good the build quality was in the year it was manufactured, it is still susceptible to all the same problems as have been mentioned: solder joints do go cold and or crack, and you can't see it. Nobody, including Asus, was using some sort of special solder or capacitors which would cause it to last longer than it needed to before they sold you your next board. Even the best electrolytic capacitors which exist, TODAY only have bout a 15-year shelf-life before they start to drift, and those are made for a much more stressful station in life than your motherboard could ever create. There are even biological things which can grow on your motherboard, which you can't see, which could cause it to malfunction.

I'm not saying there is something wrong with your motherboard. And most of us who you think are being condescending, are not but we are weary of hearing you, who admit having no technical skills relevant to the task at hand, telling us who do "how it is" or pointing out "what it is not," throwing caution to the wind instead of following our lead and eliminating those possibilities.

ok logistics..im not interested in arguing with you when there is no benefit to my cause. if u had something more focused + pertinent to what i was trying to do then i would love to talk about that.. but what u are saying is too vague to be of any help to me, im not about to go buy a soldering iron and start mucking about with the motherboard when im not an expert with that. ive already explained this. and if u are weary of hearing me, ignore me. its a big internet. im sorry but i was born on this planet same as u and have the right to live + talk to other human beings + look to get help with what im trying to do. i just want my 486 to work so i can run the first versions of emagic logic + steinberg cubase that i tracked down from 1992/1993/1994 era. im only focused on doing what i need to do to make that dream a reality so i can sequence some cool stuff with my juno 106 i just paid about 800$ to have fixed up to better then new condition.

have a good one

I recommend getting a basic soldering iron as you seem to be interested in vintage computers and therefore electronics in general. It's useful for many different types of repair on vintage gear, some of the most common (cap and battery replacement) being easily apparent on visual inspection. If you're doing basic stuff, cheap Chinese Hakko 936 knockoffs will give good results. If you can afford it, a Hakko FX-888 will run about 80 usd, allow you to progress to SMD soldering if you wish, and last you a lifetime.

chrisNova777 wrote:

try ordering 500$+ synthesizers that have broken pitch bender wheels..
i just got back from driving to pick up my stuff after having 3 of my juno keyboards repaired.. cost me about 1000$ in gas money + repair charges + replacement parts .. 2 of the 3 were ebay purchases listed as "mint condition" yea right

For $1000 USD, I'd be willing to look into the board for you. You are responsible for shipping 2 ways. If the problem is related to a defective component on your motherboard or I/O card, I still get paid in full. Dislocation grown in semiconductor material is a common problem, which manifests itself with age. There are usually no visible signs. It is caused from raw material impurities, or during doping, and often continues to grow until a short circuit forms, rendering your circuit components inoperable.

is it normal for a dos command line app to show a mouse connected via serial port as a modem??

feipoa why are u trolling me - u know damn well that the 486sv2gx4 is a great board
sure lets all gang up on + pick on the guy who cant get his mouse working... u guys are showing your true colors + its ugly

It'll show as a modem only as long as the program does no testing. Pretty good chance it's just a bad default setting.

It was/is a serious proposition. You seem desperate and have money. PM me if you want to reconsider the offer.

gdjacobs wrote:

It'll show as a modem only as long as the program does no testing. Pretty good chance it's just a bad default setting.

Or fucked mobo. It happens..

I can't imagine a hardware fault that would result in a mouse responding to the Hayes command set. 🤣

Personally I think the OP should trash it and move on.

im starting to think this is weirdness because im using VLB cards in a machine that has a DX2 80Mhz CPU that runs at 40mhz .. that ive clocked to 33mhz using the jumpers on the board to maintain VLB stability. rather then a DX2 66 or DX4 100 cpu that runs at 33Mhz. while i cant confirm the ps/2 port because ive yet to get the correct wiring.. the serial ports seem to not function properly at all.. either they are damaged/blown or something is causing them to function improperly. ive gone thru all the steps software wise.. tried a million different jumper settings + driver switches.. im thinking all the wierdness might dissappear if i had a native 33mhz cpu. (see attached image + linked video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qla-5isbK60 @ 9:00 min mark)

feipoa wrote:

It was/is a serious proposition. You seem desperate and have money. PM me if you want to reconsider the offer.

🤣 ok;) then im seriously declining your offer 😉 .. wow.. u must be a supernice guy IRL *smh* is your name "WiredForService" on ebay?

You need a PS/2 adapter with the correct pinout before you can determine whether there's a problem related to it in the motherboard.

To figure out the pinout yourself, you either need a multimeter for continuity testing - simple to do but costs the same as a new adapter, or you open up the adapter's covering (cut the shell off somehow and trash it, most likely) and do a plain visual inspection for where the wires go.

Perhaps you can mail the adapter to someone else for a look otherwise, or just buy a new one with a known pinout.

i also just found this post:
Can NOT get a mouse detected....

i was thinking this aswell.. something somehow stopping voltage from getting to the mouse.. but the com port works??

the only time i was able to get a mouse to work on this board the other nite was using the ISA (not vlb) io controller.. on com2... and the mouse was very slow + Screwed up.. nonusable..
ive tested the serial mouse on my win7 machine so i know that the mouse works fine.

maybe i need to replace the power supply?

chrisNova777 wrote:

logistics + tayyare..
if either of you dont have real world experience with this motherboard i suggest u take a moment and review some of the things that people have said about it.. the reason people get the VL/I-486SV2GX4 is because of its build quality... the fact that it has a coin battery. zero corrosion damage... etc

I'm not getting you. I don't understand the relation of your motherboard's build quality to anything. I did not even remember mentioning your motherboards build quality or lack of it in anywhere. "I should take a moment and review some..." Are you serious? 🤣 🤣

chrisNova777 wrote:

i appreciate the group of you taking time to reply to me, but i would prefer to focus my time speaking with sincere people of good positive attitudes who have some real idea on what to focus on to fix this. i have been posting on this board since JULY and it is now NOVEMBER. just becuase id ont have a multimeter doesnt mean im not serious about getting this to work. id love to hear from anyone else who genuinely wishes to help me without being condescending...

Thanks for thanking us! 😊 I will just say that, I'm not surprised to hear that you are unable to sort this out since July to November (hint: it is not related to your lacking knowledge of retro hardware) 😈 . But no worries, you will not be hearing from me again. 😎

chrisNova777 wrote:

and no multimeters are not 5$ where i live.. more like 50-60$ http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/search-results. … ue&q=multimeter

I already answered this in one of my previous posts, even before you raised it:

tayyare wrote:

1. Buy a cheap multimeter.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-Voltmeter-Amm … gUAAOSwHnFVkYPk

It's less than 10 USD, and useful for many other things. As a result, STRONGLY RECOMMENDED!

Anyways, god speed! 😀

MY MOUSE WORKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 😎 😎 😎 😎

steps i took to fix:
-swapped out a panasonic 16mb ram chip for a 4mb one that says NPNX "4MB 32/36 DRAM Module"
-disconnected + jiggled around the power connections from the psu to the motherboard
-removed the io VLB board completely in favor of the isa only non vlb io controller
-REPLACED THE 10pin IDC- to 9pin serial connector ribbon cable!!!!!!!!!

not sure if it was the power supply wires needed to be jiggled.. or if its because of the wierdness of trying to use 2 VLB cards..
of if it was the ribbon cable wire.. I will test further to isolate the real cause... But IT WORKS!!!!! I CAN USE MY 486 now!!!!!!!!!!

its working 100% normal + usable unlike before.. THIS IS GREAT! im gonna go scream into my pillow 😁
SO HAPPY~!!!!!!!!!!!! 😊 😊 😊 😊 😊 😊

chrisNova777 wrote:

-REPLACED THE 10pin IDC- to 9pin serial connector ribbon cable!!!!!!!!!

Those serial cables can be hell. The pinout, just like PS/2 stuff, wasn't standard back then.

ok i just confirmed its not the vlb issue because i now have the mouse working with the vlb card installed!
i had bought a bunch of serial header cables off ebay.. i ordered 4 of them to be sure i got one that works.. *ALL 4 DO NOT WORK!* shocked right? 🤣 .. sigh thats ebay for you

one other thing to note is that com1 + 2 seem to be swapped on this un1082 winbond controller
ive got the 10pin idc connected to the port labeled com2 on the vlb io board but it shows up as on com1 in dos + windows

alexanrs wrote:

chrisNova777 wrote:

-REPLACED THE 10pin IDC- to 9pin serial connector ribbon cable!!!!!!!!!

Those serial cables can be hell. The pinout, just like PS/2 stuff, wasn't standard back then.

i just unscrewed both cables + looked inside the black endcap and u are 100% correct !
the cables are wired completely different!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
the kind that work is in an alternating pattern top row vs botom row left to right
and the ones that didnt work well they are wired complete row to complete row 12345 + 6789

how can this be??

chrisNova777: What province are you in? Are you at all close to a Princess Auto? Digital multimeter, $9.99 on sale.
http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/digital … ter/A-p8347676e

Should be fine for low voltage stuff. Do _not_ plug any cheap multimeter into mains wiring.

Also, you can make a continuity tester cheaply in the following way with spare parts and 3 batteries in series:

probe ---------- 330ohm Resistor -------------5V DC source-----------------two antiparallel leds-------------------probe

This would be enough to test out your plugs. If you get a light, something is connecting the probes.

chrisNova777 wrote:

ok logistics..im not interested in arguing with you when there is no benefit to my cause. if u had something more focused + pertinent to what i was trying to do then i would love to talk about that.. but what u are saying is too vague to be of any help to me, im not about to go buy a soldering iron and start mucking about with the motherboard when im not an expert with that.

It's okay, you chose to throw money at the problem, instead and that's your choice. You're obviously not a real hands-on type of person; you don't have to be an expert at soldering to buy an iron and start mucking about, you just do it and learn by hands-on experience, like myself and many other users, here. But if you'd rather pay inordinate amounts of money to have people like us fix it in real life, that's up to you, and it keeps us employed so I shouldn't complain about that.