I want to go ahead and get the POT and jack as well. I can just add it to the shipping payment, correct?
Video uploaded:
wrote:I want to go ahead and get the POT and jack as well. I can just add it to the shipping payment, correct?
Yeah, I will update the google sheet tonight with everyone's wishes. I will send an email out to everyone once the brackets are drilled. That's the only thing that's missing now. Then everyone can pay the missing fee and I will send out all the kits and PCBs.
To all three people who wanted to have the fitting pot/jack: as far as I can see you all wanted kits anyway, so the components are included anyways. So no worries, and no extra cost. 😀
wrote:Yeah, I will update the google sheet tonight with everyone's wishes. I will send an email out to everyone once the brackets are drilled. That's the only thing that's missing now. Then everyone can pay the missing fee and I will send out all the kits and PCBs.
To reply to your PM (since I seem to have too few posts to reply, let alone send a new one): a pre-drilled bracket would be nice, but I already have the pot and jack. (I actually have two potentiometers; I ended up putting the ALPS one in my latest Mouser order since I felt the one I got a few months ago when I first looked into making one of these cards was too large, although it has the right footprint.) Anyways, I've paid; email me if you need shipping details.
I have shipped all the kits and cards, except the PCB for CODOR. So CODOR, can you drop me an email with your shipping address, please?
I have also managed to solder my own card (the first shown in the videos went to obaltus). And of course it did not work. To problems arose:
1) One of the solder joints on the pot was bad. So one sound channel was borked and not responding at all to volume changes. So make sure that those joints are nice. It is difficult enough with the non-matching footprint...
2) The TEA amp IC was bad. Since I have still ~10 of those left, I just picked another one and voilà, it worked. So it was good that I packed two ICs for everyone, I think... 😉 Might also be due to the socket of course, since ST says in their data sheet one should not socket the amp. Well, who knows... it works fine now.
The offending IC is shown below. Also, my regular sound card, a non-descript MediaVision Jazz16 uses the same amp and a very similar arrangement of caps, see pics below. However it also has the YMF262 OPL3, which makes this card extremely nice. Plus it is VERY similar to my own very first sound card back in the day.
One more thought: Can I keep both the MUS-1099 and a SB-Pro compatible card (such as the Jazz16) in the PC at the same time? From what I read at nerdly pleasures (http://nerdlypleasures.blogspot.com/2012/10/a … know-about.html) the IO space overlaps, but Creative picked the DSP and OPL2 IO addresses so that it does not collide with the SAA1099 addresses. However I am not sure if this holds for the OPL3.
wrote:However I am not sure if this holds for the OPL3.
OPL3 is on the same addresses relative to the base address as the SAA1099 chips are.
So on base address 220h, they use address 220h-223h.
This means that you can only use OPL3 and SAA1099 together if you configure the two cards on different base addresses.
Because this is a rather annoying problem, there has already been an effort to reverse-engineer and patch any CMS/Game Blaster games that do not allow base addresses other than 220h.
wrote:Well, since there are not THAT many C/MS games anyway,
Yea, that's also why the decision was made to patch the CMS games, not the OPL ones 😉
wrote:wrote:Well, since there are not THAT many C/MS games anyway,
Yea, that's also why the decision was made to patch the CMS games, not the OPL ones 😉
Do you have a link? I would mainly be interested in Sierra SCI games and Indy3/Monkey1. Not sure if there are any other games I need patched or want to play more often with the SAA1099.
Everrybody without the MUS1099, a C/MS or upgraded SoundBlaster can have a listen to 90 minutes of demo songs from the Creative demo disks:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lKgejI1zVDE
I recorded this for documentation and archival purposes on my card. It shows that the card does indeed can produce some interesting sounds, even though it sounds much more "raw" than the OPL FM synths. But I still like it! Too bad that there isn't more software out there that uses it.
wrote:Do you have a link? I would mainly be interested in Sierra SCI games and Indy3/Monkey1. Not sure if there are any other games I need patched or want to play more often with the SAA1099.
Here is the topic: CMS/Game Blaster game patching and setting a new standard!
And here were the patches, I think: ftp://ftp.oldskool.org/pub/CMSSoundPatches/
Not sure what happened.
Oh, and I don't think Monkey Island needs a patch, iirc it has a commandline, something like: monkey g210
Chances are, the same works on Indy 3 as well, since they are both SCUMM games?
wrote:I have shipped all the kits and cards, except the PCB for CODOR. So CODOR, can you drop me an email with your shipping address, please?
Oh, figures I'd forget that. I've sent it now 😀
wrote:2) The TEA amp IC was bad. Since I have still ~10 of those left, I just picked another one and voilà, it worked. So it was good that I packed two ICs for everyone, I think... 😉 Might also be due to the socket of course, since ST says in their data sheet one should not socket the amp. Well, who knows... it works fine now.
]
Yeah the PCB is used for cooling of the TEA Amp IC.
I rerouted some Stuff of the PCB and also changed the POT, maybe soon i will order a patch of pcb without these glitches 😮
https://www.retrokits.de - blog, retro projects, hdd clicker, diy soundcards etc
https://www.retroianer.de - german retro computer board
I recived my kit yestetday. Everything looked good and I already soldered the card and its working! I had a little fuck up though, I accidentally destroyed one of the 22µF ceramic caps which goes on C15/C16. The local shop (of cause) doesn't have this typ of cap in stock.. I've got this 22 µF tantalum cap, could I just use that instead of the ceramic cap?
wrote:I recived my kit yestetday. Everything looked good and I already soldered the card and its working! I had a little fuck up though, I accidentally destroyed one of the 22µF ceramic caps which goes on C15/C16. The local shop (of cause) doesn't have this typ of cap in stock.. I've got this 22 µF tantalum cap, could I just use that instead of the ceramic cap?
I think C15/C16 might be fore HF output filtering. I am no EE (but CS), so take this with a grain of salt, but from what I understand, the tantalums are not good fit for HF filtering. E.g. see this stackexchange discussion:
https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questio … alum-capacitors
I would think you might be able to use almost any ceramic 22uF or slightly higher valued cap that is above 12V rated, to be sure. Your local shop will most definitely have those. Also, I assume that those caps in C15/C16 are for left/right channel, so you should use the same caps in both places.
matze79 might to make more qualified recommendations, I think he is more qualified and rerouted the board already. 😉
Sadly my local shop didn't have any ceramic under 1F... I guess I'll bite the bullet and get them from Mouser. Could you tell me which part you got for the kit?
Sure: https://www.mouser.de/ProductDetail/594-K681K15X7RF5TL2
I find it weird that a shop has only ceramics bigger than 1 F... they must be HUGE...
