I've got only one of these on my FIC 486-PVT motherboard. The jumper configuration necessary for a WB cache enabled CPU on this motherboard requires two of these jumpers. The text printed on there is "8B000J YAGEO". Wasn't able to find much on this via Google (I did find one topic on this forum with no answer though, haha)
I initially thought this might be a resistor network of some sort but using my multimeter to test the resistance, I get ~0.3. I cannot find any 8-pin resistor networks with that low of a resistance. I was able to determine that the pins are not all connected together internally, but are grouped into four sets of two instead.
Anyone know where I can get another one of these, or at least something close enough that would work?
That was something I'd considered actually, but wanted to check with people more knowledgeable than me about these things first. 😀 I've got little jumper wires that should do the trick in an old electronics starter kit I still have from years ago, could just arrange 4 of them in the same way.
I have a 486 motherboard that uses these things and the manual lists them as "RP 0Ω 8 p4R". Not sure exactly what it means but zero ohms suggests a jumper, "8 p" suggests 8 pins, and "4R" must be something to do with the pair arrangement.
Just so that this thread isn't left without an answer for the next guy who comes along searching for something about this, this is what I ended up doing and it appears to work fine with no issues:
I have this board, just tried it with a AMD DX4-100 and 5x86-133 and it wouldn't post. Could this be the cause? (i have only one such 8-pin jumper, and for AMD i'm installing it in RN18 position, as per the instructions found online. Are there revised settings available somewhere?)
The board works ok with Intel DX-33.
Thanks, but the voltage isn't the problem. I got the variant without the Q2 MOSFET, but it has the 5-pin regulator and the 16-pin jumper nearby so i was able to set the required voltage (3v for the DX4, 3.45v for the 5x86).
Well, couldn't sleep so i had to try Gered's solution, and i have to say that it works. The board now POSTs with a 5x86-133, but recognizes it as a 486DX4/100MHz or a 486DX4B-S/120MHz, depending whether jumper J2 is open or closed. Thanks 😀
Later edit: searched the bios image file and couldn't find the string "5x86" in it (while there are many references to various 486 models), so i guess the bios might be too old to know about this CPU, although it is said here that with the latest bios (5.150eef3) the board supports the 5x86 CPUs from AMD and Cyrix. And that's the version that i'm using, downloaded it from the FIC website as the board came without a bios chip.
Zero ohm resistors so the part is literally 4 jumpers inline.
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Great find! I'm having the same issue with my motherboard(s). I think they had DX2 processors in them and as a result have no 8-pin jumpers.
I've looked on Yageo's site but I can't find that part anymore as I guess it's obsolete. Is it possible to get a substitute?
Sorry, I haven't been here in a while.
The electronics catalog I found the information in was from the late 1990's.
They are still made but not by Yageo.
They are very hard to find (even for me, an electronics tech) and they are absolutely NOT cheap.
Yes, they are obsolete and the few manufactures that still make them know they have a niche marked so they jack the price.
I guess my description wasn't clear enough.
It's 4 non-connected jumpers in one inline package.
This is about what it would look like without the plastic.
The only thing that holds them together is a lump of plastic.
They don't need to be attached to each other to work.
That construction was probably for convenience and/or to avoid configuration mistakes at the factory.
You don't need to buy anything.
You can make them using an appropriate diameter wire and a needle nose pliers.
If the wire size is good a paper-clip or some solid copper wire should work fine.
A bare wire there shouldn't be a problem. If it bothers you then heat-shrink the exposed part.
If you want to get fancy and make a single inline reproduction there is a product called JB Weld "Plastic Bonder".
It works like a 2-part epoxy but when it cures it's a hard plastic.
It bonds well to some materials that most others (including Super Glue) just won't.
It's available in various colors. I dunno if they have a dark brown or black to match the original part. (Use paint.)
I used beige to fix broken retainer-clip mountings on some car door panels. The repair is strong.
I was impressed. It's not often a product exceeds my expectations by that much.
I'm not 100% sure it will hold up for your application but I think it will.
It's not inexpensive but not too expensive given how well it works.
When you need some for a special project it's worth the price IMHO.
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GRUMPY OLD FART - On Hiatus, sort'a
Mann-Made Global Warming. - We should be more concerned about the Intellectual Climate.
You can teach a man to fish and feed him for life, but if he can't handle sushi you must also teach him to cook.
