VOGONS


Reply 20 of 30, by Tetrium

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Minutemanqvs wrote on 2023-06-19, 12:11:

I wonder if with "L&C" they tried to trick people into thinking it's an LC-Power brand, which is rather ok.

I wouldn't be surprised if this was the case.

Whats missing in your collections?
My retro rigs (old topic)
Interesting Vogons threads (links to Vogonswiki)
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Reply 21 of 30, by andre_6

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W.x. wrote on 2023-06-19, 08:33:
Had this PSU, worst I ever saw. I've never had courage to run it. Opened it, it was really bad. Everything cheap, lots of stuff […]
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Had this PSU, worst I ever saw. I've never had courage to run it. Opened it, it was really bad. Everything cheap, lots of stuff missing. It was also lightest power supply out of all I had and passed through me (about 30 pieces).

You dont have to dump every old PSU. I have old Nexus from 2003, heavy as hell (1990grams), running good. (its Nexus NX3500) I've stuck with old OEM Fortrons. Have like 7 of them, all are heavy, good inside, and running for 2 years in retro PC without any problem. You need to opened PSU before use, it cannot have capacitors in bad shape, and PCB needs to be in good shape. It has to be at least middle quality PSU (Antec, Fortron FSP Group). It needs to weight over 1300-1400 grams, at least minimum. (better be in 1500-1900 gram range).

I provide picture of that Premier. It's in original LC form. (Premiere will be rebranded L&C I think). Most crappy PSU I saw. (weights 920grams! What a joke) The other ones are lowend too, but
even that Mercury was slightly better (still bad, dont even try to run PC with it). The only one, that is at least decent on lowend spectrum is that Frontier Power. Working good for hours and hours (I was using him for testing the motherboards at beginning when I didnt have more power supplies).

Thank you for the good info, as an update I corrected the IDE quirk that I mentioned, I was too tired at the time and it simply was a cable mixup, I had both CD drives as slave on the same cable, instead of one CD+HDD and the other CD drive in a different cable like it always was.

Although I have one more victim to add to the killed floppy drive, and that's the CPU fan. At power on it only starts spinning sometimes now. It's not a fan from a reputable brand, I just chose it because it was the most silent of the ones I had. But since then I got a Gelid fan controller, so I'll just replace it for another one at hand and re-calibrate it. What's curious is that the power current got through the fan controller before getting to the CPU fan, and still it's the latter that suffered.

I was surprised because it was working before closing the case up after checking everything, I was startled by the high pitch code that came from the board for the overheated CPU. I immediately shut it down so the CPU must still be ok, it's a 1Ghz Coppermine. I have another one in any case but I don't like to have hardware killed of course. I have an original Intel socket 370 fan and heatsink and a newly made Chinese socket 370 fan that's quite silent and bigger than the Intel one, with a bigger heatsink as well. Would you go with the brand or with the bigger and yet more silent fan/heatsink Chinese combo?

What surprised me as well is the difficulty to find PSUs in stock in my country, meaning the 450/500w EVGA, Corsair, etc. I managed to get two new Corsair CV450 that were still in stock and a used EVGA 500BQ one so I could try out the brand (new ones weren't available for near that price), but now I'm having trouble finding the last one that I would need. In my context it's impossible to find PSUs for less than 70 or more euros from those two brands. Do you have any other brands that you could trustfully recommend? I realise old PCs don't require that much at all, but since I'm investing in this might as well do it the right way

Reply 22 of 30, by Tetrium

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andre_6 wrote on 2023-06-19, 15:49:

I was surprised because it was working before closing the case up after checking everything, I was startled by the high pitch code that came from the board for the overheated CPU. I immediately shut it down so the CPU must still be ok, it's a 1Ghz Coppermine. I have another one in any case but I don't like to have hardware killed of course. I have an original Intel socket 370 fan and heatsink and a newly made Chinese socket 370 fan that's quite silent and bigger than the Intel one, with a bigger heatsink as well. Would you go with the brand or with the bigger and yet more silent fan/heatsink Chinese combo?

Could you upload some pics of the Chinese HSF? Please also include a pic of the Intel one next to the Chinese one for reference.
Coppermine 1000 isn't a particularly hot running chip, but will still run very hot if cooled by a too tiny heatsink. Also not all large heatsinks may be compatible with Coppermine, especially if it's made for Pentium 1 or for Tualatin.

Whats missing in your collections?
My retro rigs (old topic)
Interesting Vogons threads (links to Vogonswiki)
Report spammers here!

Reply 23 of 30, by andre_6

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Tetrium wrote on 2023-06-19, 16:24:
andre_6 wrote on 2023-06-19, 15:49:

I was surprised because it was working before closing the case up after checking everything, I was startled by the high pitch code that came from the board for the overheated CPU. I immediately shut it down so the CPU must still be ok, it's a 1Ghz Coppermine. I have another one in any case but I don't like to have hardware killed of course. I have an original Intel socket 370 fan and heatsink and a newly made Chinese socket 370 fan that's quite silent and bigger than the Intel one, with a bigger heatsink as well. Would you go with the brand or with the bigger and yet more silent fan/heatsink Chinese combo?

Could you upload some pics of the Chinese HSF? Please also include a pic of the Intel one next to the Chinese one for reference.
Coppermine 1000 isn't a particularly hot running chip, but will still run very hot if cooled by a too tiny heatsink. Also not all large heatsinks may be compatible with Coppermine, especially if it's made for Pentium 1 or for Tualatin.

The Intel one was removed from a board running a P-iii Coppermine as well. It came directly assembled with it from the PC store. The Chinese one was bought from AliExpress along other stuff, it was made for socket 370 specifically, got it at the time from the same store where I got other stuff that I needed then.

The Intel heatsink looks beefier though

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Reply 24 of 30, by W.x.

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Tetrium wrote on 2023-06-19, 13:34:

Any particular thing you watch out for concerning the PSU PCB?

I'm quite electrotechnical antitalent, so I don't have any right to teach someone in this matter. But by inspecting PCB board, I've meant, if it is burned (on amber colored PCB, you know, when it is baked), that meant, that it was improperly cooled, and there were components, that were reaching or exceeding 100 Celsius temperature.
There can be also leaked capacitors, and stuff could leak on PCB, and short something. There can be leaked other components, and also insects. I didn't meant only PCB (plastic), but I've meant whole board (so basically that board inside). Sometimes, it can be like eaten with corrosion, mold, or some nasty stuff. I use it and run it only when it's quite clean (dust can be cleaned, that I don't count). So, inspect PCB, i mean more like inspect PCB with components (so that board inside PSU). I've opened some PSUs and they were like new inside. That's good, when it's kinda decent, weights over 1500g , and PCB is clean, I give it a try, even with old Power supply. I never put it over 50% of power limit on old power supply (so even on these kinda ok, I go only below 50%). From my experiences, and reading from internet, even crappy ones stood quite good, if used up to 50%, those all freightening stories with Eurocase, and burning, or poping out, were usually at 65%-100% power limit.

Reply 25 of 30, by Tetrium

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andre_6 wrote on 2023-06-19, 16:53:
Tetrium wrote on 2023-06-19, 16:24:
andre_6 wrote on 2023-06-19, 15:49:

I was surprised because it was working before closing the case up after checking everything, I was startled by the high pitch code that came from the board for the overheated CPU. I immediately shut it down so the CPU must still be ok, it's a 1Ghz Coppermine. I have another one in any case but I don't like to have hardware killed of course. I have an original Intel socket 370 fan and heatsink and a newly made Chinese socket 370 fan that's quite silent and bigger than the Intel one, with a bigger heatsink as well. Would you go with the brand or with the bigger and yet more silent fan/heatsink Chinese combo?

Could you upload some pics of the Chinese HSF? Please also include a pic of the Intel one next to the Chinese one for reference.
Coppermine 1000 isn't a particularly hot running chip, but will still run very hot if cooled by a too tiny heatsink. Also not all large heatsinks may be compatible with Coppermine, especially if it's made for Pentium 1 or for Tualatin.

The Intel one was removed from a board running a P-iii Coppermine as well. It came directly assembled with it from the PC store. The Chinese one was bought from AliExpress along other stuff, it was made for socket 370 specifically, got it at the time from the same store where I got other stuff that I needed then.

The Intel heatsink looks beefier though

Thanks, that's some good pics.
The Intel one does look beefier thanks to its thicker base. It does have a smaller fan and may be more noisy (I always found the Intel stock s370 HSFs to be too noisy for my taste, they tend to produce a constant whine).
The heatsink of the Intel HSF I like a lot though, as they make for great ss7 heatsinks (I switch out the fan for a less noisy one) because on older boards there's often motherboard stuff in the way (mostly caps) so a larger heatsink often won't fit. So afaic, definitely keep that heatsink!
Having said that, I'm not sure what CPU that Intel stock HSF came with, but from memory the Coppermine 1000 stock HSFs were a bit beefier than that one? Those had a bit more overhang (they looked more square where yours looks a bit more rectangular) so I'm not sure of that HSF will be totally sufficient for a Coppermine 1000. Same thing goes for that chinese HSF though, but regardless I'd say you can give either a try and see if it doesn't run too hot.

That Intel HSF has one other gripe, I really dislike that mounting clip design! I'll always prefer to switch it out with some other mounting clip from a spare cooler as the mounting clips that came with these Intel stock HSFs are much more tricky to uninstall using a flatbed screwdriver. Depending on how deep your chinese HSF is, its mounting clip may be compatible with your Intel heatsink (usually they are, also since both use a single mounting hole and are not of a 3-fold mounting hole design).

General advice is that HSFs that have only a single mounting hole in their mounting clips make it easier to accidentally snap off the center mounting tab (the bit of plastic protruding from the CPU socket that the clamp clamps over to maintain its position) if applying too much force. A HSF using a mounting clip with 3 holes would be a better pick here usually.

So tldr, those s370 Intel HSFs, I dislike the fans and I really dislike the mounting clips, but I really like the heatsinks otherwise.

Whats missing in your collections?
My retro rigs (old topic)
Interesting Vogons threads (links to Vogonswiki)
Report spammers here!

Reply 26 of 30, by Tetrium

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W.x. wrote on 2023-06-19, 17:05:
Tetrium wrote on 2023-06-19, 13:34:

Any particular thing you watch out for concerning the PSU PCB?

I'm quite electrotechnical antitalent, so I don't have any right to teach someone in this matter. But by inspecting PCB board, I've meant, if it is burned (on amber colored PCB, you know, when it is baked), that meant, that it was improperly cooled, and there were components, that were reaching or exceeding 100 Celsius temperature.
There can be also leaked capacitors, and stuff could leak on PCB, and short something. There can be leaked other components, and also insects. I didn't meant only PCB (plastic), but I've meant whole board (so basically that board inside). Sometimes, it can be like eaten with corrosion, mold, or some nasty stuff. I use it and run it only when it's quite clean (dust can be cleaned, that I don't count). So, inspect PCB, i mean more like inspect PCB with components (so that board inside PSU). I've opened some PSUs and they were like new inside. That's good, when it's kinda decent, weights over 1500g , and PCB is clean, I give it a try, even with old Power supply. I never put it over 50% of power limit on old power supply (so even on these kinda ok, I go only below 50%). From my experiences, and reading from internet, even crappy ones stood quite good, if used up to 50%, those all freightening stories with Eurocase, and burning, or poping out, were usually at 65%-100% power limit.

I understand what you mean. I'd say to always look for funny stuff. Anything odd may be an indication something is wrong. The caps are probably the most well known one, along with obviously burned parts.

Whats missing in your collections?
My retro rigs (old topic)
Interesting Vogons threads (links to Vogonswiki)
Report spammers here!

Reply 27 of 30, by andre_6

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Tetrium wrote on 2023-06-19, 17:50:
Thanks, that's some good pics. The Intel one does look beefier thanks to its thicker base. It does have a smaller fan and may be […]
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andre_6 wrote on 2023-06-19, 16:53:
Tetrium wrote on 2023-06-19, 16:24:

Could you upload some pics of the Chinese HSF? Please also include a pic of the Intel one next to the Chinese one for reference.
Coppermine 1000 isn't a particularly hot running chip, but will still run very hot if cooled by a too tiny heatsink. Also not all large heatsinks may be compatible with Coppermine, especially if it's made for Pentium 1 or for Tualatin.

The Intel one was removed from a board running a P-iii Coppermine as well. It came directly assembled with it from the PC store. The Chinese one was bought from AliExpress along other stuff, it was made for socket 370 specifically, got it at the time from the same store where I got other stuff that I needed then.

The Intel heatsink looks beefier though

Thanks, that's some good pics.
The Intel one does look beefier thanks to its thicker base. It does have a smaller fan and may be more noisy (I always found the Intel stock s370 HSFs to be too noisy for my taste, they tend to produce a constant whine).
The heatsink of the Intel HSF I like a lot though, as they make for great ss7 heatsinks (I switch out the fan for a less noisy one) because on older boards there's often motherboard stuff in the way (mostly caps) so a larger heatsink often won't fit. So afaic, definitely keep that heatsink!
Having said that, I'm not sure what CPU that Intel stock HSF came with, but from memory the Coppermine 1000 stock HSFs were a bit beefier than that one? Those had a bit more overhang (they looked more square where yours looks a bit more rectangular) so I'm not sure of that HSF will be totally sufficient for a Coppermine 1000. Same thing goes for that chinese HSF though, but regardless I'd say you can give either a try and see if it doesn't run too hot.

That Intel HSF has one other gripe, I really dislike that mounting clip design! I'll always prefer to switch it out with some other mounting clip from a spare cooler as the mounting clips that came with these Intel stock HSFs are much more tricky to uninstall using a flatbed screwdriver. Depending on how deep your chinese HSF is, its mounting clip may be compatible with your Intel heatsink (usually they are, also since both use a single mounting hole and are not of a 3-fold mounting hole design).

General advice is that HSFs that have only a single mounting hole in their mounting clips make it easier to accidentally snap off the center mounting tab (the bit of plastic protruding from the CPU socket that the clamp clamps over to maintain its position) if applying too much force. A HSF using a mounting clip with 3 holes would be a better pick here usually.

So tldr, those s370 Intel HSFs, I dislike the fans and I really dislike the mounting clips, but I really like the heatsinks otherwise.

Tried mixing and matching but didn't find anything that worked or satisfied me. The Intel fan is indeed whiny but not as whiny as a Cooler Master socket 370 that I used to have, the worst I've ever heard, even after multiple lubrications. The Chinese one is not whiny but all in all in noise it's somewhere between the two.

Saving all the heatsinks I have 4 to choose from, do you happen to have some recommendations regarding socket 370 fans? Meanwhile I'll be Googling around

Reply 28 of 30, by Tetrium

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andre_6 wrote on 2023-06-19, 18:40:
Tetrium wrote on 2023-06-19, 17:50:
Thanks, that's some good pics. The Intel one does look beefier thanks to its thicker base. It does have a smaller fan and may be […]
Show full quote
andre_6 wrote on 2023-06-19, 16:53:

The Intel one was removed from a board running a P-iii Coppermine as well. It came directly assembled with it from the PC store. The Chinese one was bought from AliExpress along other stuff, it was made for socket 370 specifically, got it at the time from the same store where I got other stuff that I needed then.

The Intel heatsink looks beefier though

Thanks, that's some good pics.
The Intel one does look beefier thanks to its thicker base. It does have a smaller fan and may be more noisy (I always found the Intel stock s370 HSFs to be too noisy for my taste, they tend to produce a constant whine).
The heatsink of the Intel HSF I like a lot though, as they make for great ss7 heatsinks (I switch out the fan for a less noisy one) because on older boards there's often motherboard stuff in the way (mostly caps) so a larger heatsink often won't fit. So afaic, definitely keep that heatsink!
Having said that, I'm not sure what CPU that Intel stock HSF came with, but from memory the Coppermine 1000 stock HSFs were a bit beefier than that one? Those had a bit more overhang (they looked more square where yours looks a bit more rectangular) so I'm not sure of that HSF will be totally sufficient for a Coppermine 1000. Same thing goes for that chinese HSF though, but regardless I'd say you can give either a try and see if it doesn't run too hot.

That Intel HSF has one other gripe, I really dislike that mounting clip design! I'll always prefer to switch it out with some other mounting clip from a spare cooler as the mounting clips that came with these Intel stock HSFs are much more tricky to uninstall using a flatbed screwdriver. Depending on how deep your chinese HSF is, its mounting clip may be compatible with your Intel heatsink (usually they are, also since both use a single mounting hole and are not of a 3-fold mounting hole design).

General advice is that HSFs that have only a single mounting hole in their mounting clips make it easier to accidentally snap off the center mounting tab (the bit of plastic protruding from the CPU socket that the clamp clamps over to maintain its position) if applying too much force. A HSF using a mounting clip with 3 holes would be a better pick here usually.

So tldr, those s370 Intel HSFs, I dislike the fans and I really dislike the mounting clips, but I really like the heatsinks otherwise.

Tried mixing and matching but didn't find anything that worked or satisfied me. The Intel fan is indeed whiny but not as whiny as a Cooler Master socket 370 that I used to have, the worst I've ever heard, even after multiple lubrications. The Chinese one is not whiny but all in all in noise it's somewhere between the two.

Saving all the heatsinks I have 4 to choose from, do you happen to have some recommendations regarding socket 370 fans? Meanwhile I'll be Googling around

Some Cooler Master fans from that era were actually pretty silent, but some were indeed loud.
One of my favorite s370 HSFs is actually a certain type of stock sA AthlonXP HSF, but I'd say any sA HSF that has a triple holed mounting clip, copper base and 6 to 8cm fan would be ideal if only because replacing the fan will be easy and you can 'downgrade' it to a slower but more silent one as Coppermine has a mere half the TDP that the sA Athlons have (roughly). I'm not sure if there are sA HSFs with even larger fans but if so then they are really much more uncommon.

One of my favorites is actually the Arctic Cooling Copper Silent 3 aka AC Copper Lite. It's really overkill for any s370 CPU though and may have a hard time fitting Tualatin or any other s370 CPU with IHS. But it was relatively cheap and the fan is easy to replace (just screw it to the heatsink).

Whats missing in your collections?
My retro rigs (old topic)
Interesting Vogons threads (links to Vogonswiki)
Report spammers here!

Reply 29 of 30, by Rav

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W.x. wrote on 2023-06-19, 08:33:
Had this PSU, worst I ever saw. I've never had courage to run it. Opened it, it was really bad. Everything cheap, lots of stuff […]
Show full quote

Had this PSU, worst I ever saw. I've never had courage to run it. Opened it, it was really bad. Everything cheap, lots of stuff missing. It was also lightest power supply out of all I had and passed through me (about 30 pieces).

You dont have to dump every old PSU. I have old Nexus from 2003, heavy as hell (1990grams), running good. (its Nexus NX3500) I've stuck with old OEM Fortrons. Have like 7 of them, all are heavy, good inside, and running for 2 years in retro PC without any problem. You need to opened PSU before use, it cannot have capacitors in bad shape, and PCB needs to be in good shape. It has to be at least middle quality PSU (Antec, Fortron FSP Group). It needs to weight over 1300-1400 grams, at least minimum. (better be in 1500-1900 gram range).

I provide picture of that Premier. It's in original LC form. (Premiere will be rebranded L&C I think). Most crappy PSU I saw. (weights 920grams! What a joke) The other ones are lowend too, but
even that Mercury was slightly better (still bad, dont even try to run PC with it). The only one, that is at least decent on lowend spectrum is that Frontier Power. Working good for hours and hours (I was using him for testing the motherboards at beginning when I didnt have more power supplies).

I remember theses L&C back in the old days, when I was building computers for customers.

Can't say for the 350W model.

But they had 3 version of there "300W" model. Depending of the color of the text on the label
Black 300W = 300W
Green "300W" = 250W
Red "300W" = 200W

Never trust a L&C, you never know, just replace it.

Reply 30 of 30, by andre_6

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Tetrium wrote on 2023-06-19, 20:39:
Some Cooler Master fans from that era were actually pretty silent, but some were indeed loud. One of my favorite s370 HSFs is ac […]
Show full quote
andre_6 wrote on 2023-06-19, 18:40:
Tetrium wrote on 2023-06-19, 17:50:
Thanks, that's some good pics. The Intel one does look beefier thanks to its thicker base. It does have a smaller fan and may be […]
Show full quote

Thanks, that's some good pics.
The Intel one does look beefier thanks to its thicker base. It does have a smaller fan and may be more noisy (I always found the Intel stock s370 HSFs to be too noisy for my taste, they tend to produce a constant whine).
The heatsink of the Intel HSF I like a lot though, as they make for great ss7 heatsinks (I switch out the fan for a less noisy one) because on older boards there's often motherboard stuff in the way (mostly caps) so a larger heatsink often won't fit. So afaic, definitely keep that heatsink!
Having said that, I'm not sure what CPU that Intel stock HSF came with, but from memory the Coppermine 1000 stock HSFs were a bit beefier than that one? Those had a bit more overhang (they looked more square where yours looks a bit more rectangular) so I'm not sure of that HSF will be totally sufficient for a Coppermine 1000. Same thing goes for that chinese HSF though, but regardless I'd say you can give either a try and see if it doesn't run too hot.

That Intel HSF has one other gripe, I really dislike that mounting clip design! I'll always prefer to switch it out with some other mounting clip from a spare cooler as the mounting clips that came with these Intel stock HSFs are much more tricky to uninstall using a flatbed screwdriver. Depending on how deep your chinese HSF is, its mounting clip may be compatible with your Intel heatsink (usually they are, also since both use a single mounting hole and are not of a 3-fold mounting hole design).

General advice is that HSFs that have only a single mounting hole in their mounting clips make it easier to accidentally snap off the center mounting tab (the bit of plastic protruding from the CPU socket that the clamp clamps over to maintain its position) if applying too much force. A HSF using a mounting clip with 3 holes would be a better pick here usually.

So tldr, those s370 Intel HSFs, I dislike the fans and I really dislike the mounting clips, but I really like the heatsinks otherwise.

Tried mixing and matching but didn't find anything that worked or satisfied me. The Intel fan is indeed whiny but not as whiny as a Cooler Master socket 370 that I used to have, the worst I've ever heard, even after multiple lubrications. The Chinese one is not whiny but all in all in noise it's somewhere between the two.

Saving all the heatsinks I have 4 to choose from, do you happen to have some recommendations regarding socket 370 fans? Meanwhile I'll be Googling around

Some Cooler Master fans from that era were actually pretty silent, but some were indeed loud.
One of my favorite s370 HSFs is actually a certain type of stock sA AthlonXP HSF, but I'd say any sA HSF that has a triple holed mounting clip, copper base and 6 to 8cm fan would be ideal if only because replacing the fan will be easy and you can 'downgrade' it to a slower but more silent one as Coppermine has a mere half the TDP that the sA Athlons have (roughly). I'm not sure if there are sA HSFs with even larger fans but if so then they are really much more uncommon.

One of my favorites is actually the Arctic Cooling Copper Silent 3 aka AC Copper Lite. It's really overkill for any s370 CPU though and may have a hard time fitting Tualatin or any other s370 CPU with IHS. But it was relatively cheap and the fan is easy to replace (just screw it to the heatsink).

Ended up getting a Titan Socket A/462 that was readily available around these parts, very effective and low temps even with the fan controller and quite silent, thanks