Try this: set the jen jumper to a jumperfree mode, then connect only the CPU, power it on, then after one minute check if anything is getting hot on the board (both bridges, Asus (monitoring) chip, winbond (sio) chip) etc.

I am speechless...

I was doing what @Zerthimon said, while touching around all the chips... the motherboard started POSTing under my eyes.

Powered off, plugged RAM and video card.... and I was able to go to the BIOS and even boot my bench DOS CF card.

I think it started POSTing after I touched\pushed this chip, which I think is the clock generator. It also gets hot, is it normal?
No other chips got too hot, only that.

Yes, that's the clocker chip, and it should get warm, but not mad hot.

I think the caps are failing, when they are somehow bad and the board was not powered for a long time, they need some 'warm up' time.

And indeed after a couple of hours while I left the motherboard disconnected I'm back to square one with zero signs of post.

The clock chip gets very hot, I can't leave my finger on it more than 3 seconds. This also while it was working.

I'm not so good with the desoldering. Like I did a small recap in a Pentium 4 motherboard, it works now but desoldering the caps was a nightmare for me.

Try replacing the tiny smd cap near the clock generator.
Bigger caps seem to be Rubycon and Sanyo and they age
usually well if not thermal stressed.

Basically now it's a diesel engine, it needs 5/10 minutes to warm up then it boots 🤣

But I've noticed this now, it gives me this hardware error which I've ignored so far thinking it was because of the missing floppy disk drive .

And the error is about the 12v rail. I disabled the monitoring of it and the error got away. Tested two PSUs and reading was about the same. The voltage read out got from a molex with a multimeter is in spec.
How can I know which caps are on the 12v rail?

verysaving wrote on 2023-06-03, 00:41:

Try replacing the tiny smd cap near the clock generator.
Bigger caps seem to be Rubycon and Sanyo and they age
usually well if not thermal stressed.

Oh god that tiny little cap? If I try to remove it I will end up ruining this motherboard even more. Besides I can't understand the values of it.

Appears to be a Panasonic Alumimum cap. 10uF 16v SMT. The 10 is for 10uf, CFC is voltage/series. first letter is voltage, C for 16v, FC is the series. Bottom stuff is the lot.
From this pdf: https://www.farnell.com/datasheets/2813661.pdf and this for a 10uF 50v: https://ph.rs-online.com/web/p/aluminium-capacitors/0568777

Congrats on fixing(to P.O.S.T) . I wanted to suggest setting the MB jumpers manually , because I had better luck doing everything manually.

P.S. instead of changing SMD caps (if they are not in short) try just cleaning them with electronic contact cleaner (I Use italian DUECI Electronic)

When the MB is cold, try heating the caps with a hair dryer
and see if it boots up.

mrfusion92 wrote on 2023-06-03, 07:37:

If I try to remove it I will end up ruining this motherboard even more. Besides I can't understand the values of it.

#1 Never try to desolder the SMD electrolyte.
#2 Never try to solder smd electrolyte without heating from below.
Use SMD tantalum capacitors or MLСС
Hint
You should collecting non-working hardware.
For example, Radeon 9xxx, which does not work, not only look good on the shelf, but also serve as a source of SMD tantalum capacitors 10-22uF 6.3-16V.

shevalier wrote on 2023-06-04, 04:06:

#1 Never try to desolder the SMD electrolyte. #2 Never try to solder smd electrolyte without heating from below. Use SMD tantalu […]
Show full quote

#1 Never try to desolder the SMD electrolyte.
#2 Never try to solder smd electrolyte without heating from below.
Use SMD tantalum capacitors or MLСС
Hint
You should collecting non-working hardware.
For example, Radeon 9xxx, which does not work, not only look good on the shelf, but also serve as a source of SMD tantalum capacitors 10-22uF 6.3-16V.

I do have a Radeon 9200 which shows artifacts with probably bad vram chips! And indeed seems to have three 10 uF caps but I think that they are rated for 16v. Is that an issue?

However, the fact remains that I am not equipped for this type of work. I will probably need at least an hot air gun.

mrfusion92 wrote on 2023-06-04, 13:45:

And indeed seems to have three 10 uF caps but I think that they are rated for 16v. Is that an issue?

This will show only the replacement

mrfusion92 wrote on 2023-06-04, 13:45:

However, the fact remains that I am not equipped for this type of work. I will probably need at least an hot air gun.

You can't solder them with a soldering iron, see picture.
Hot air gun - overheating.

Finally use MLCC, the 21st century is ending...

Or tantalum capacitors, in a pinch

shevalier wrote on 2023-06-04, 04:06:

#1 Never try to desolder the SMD electrolyte.

Wut?

shevalier wrote on 2023-06-04, 04:06:

#2 Never try to solder smd electrolyte without heating from below.

Wut?

shevalier wrote on 2023-06-04, 15:02:

You can't solder them with a soldering iron, see picture.

Again... wut?

Everyone says WUT.
But not everyone shows results.
The photo shows a complete reflow of solder at the factory, and not 1 mm of snot.

mrfusion92 wrote on 2023-06-02, 22:31:

And indeed after a couple of hours while I left the motherboard disconnected I'm back to square one with zero signs of post.

The clock chip gets very hot, I can't leave my finger on it more than 3 seconds. This also while it was working.

I'm not so good with the desoldering. Like I did a small recap in a Pentium 4 motherboard, it works now but desoldering the caps was a nightmare for me.

A good clock generator can be very hot. Usually if it isn't warm at all then it doesn't do its job. So I wouldn't pay attention to its hotness.
What about that little capacitor - try to add an usual (not smd) electrolytic capacitor in parallel to it. Just don't confuse where + and - pins. To diagnostic matter I wouldn't even solder it. I think it is easier than replace the smd cap.

bloodem wrote on 2023-06-04, 15:29:

Wut? […]
Show full quote

shevalier wrote on 2023-06-04, 04:06:

#1 Never try to desolder the SMD electrolyte.

Wut?

shevalier wrote on 2023-06-04, 04:06:

#2 Never try to solder smd electrolyte without heating from below.

Wut?

shevalier wrote on 2023-06-04, 15:02:

You can't solder them with a soldering iron, see picture.

Again... wut?

I'm also confused. Regularly soldered SMD electrolytics with a regular iron withput preheating the board or anything. No issues so far.🤷‍♂️
Edit: Are you by any chance not using flux or are you using an iron with too low temperature, shevalier?

Setting aside the technique to solder. I'm writing the shopping list of caps to buy, and I will replace all of them. The through hole ones and also the other SMDs.

I have cross-checked with this webpage. That part list is for the rev 1.03, mine is the 1.04 and there is only one 100 uF cap more. All the others are exactly the same.
That page doesn't mention the smd caps, which are 5 in total and are all the same like the one near the clock chip.

I'm just unsure which type of smd caps I should buy. MLCC seems to be easy to solder and I've found this, is it correct? The size too?

Otherwise I've found this that seems to be a "drop-in replacement".

Roman555 wrote on 2023-06-04, 17:30:

A good clock generator can be very hot. Usually if it isn't warm at all then it doesn't do its job. So I wouldn't pay attention to its hotness.
What about that little capacitor - try to add an usual (not smd) electrolytic capacitor in parallel to it. Just don't confuse where + and - pins. To diagnostic matter I wouldn't even solder it. I think it is easier than replace the smd cap.

I have only some ceramic 100uF caps from a small electric project I was doing. I don't think I can use them for test. Besides today it is behaving way better, it failed only the first boot. I will leave it disconnected the whole night and see if tomorrow morning it will be dead.